Trend Fall/Winter 2012/2013: Divided
There’s only so many options to vary with a menswear wardrobe. Yet this season designers found a surprising way of spicing things up. Usual menswear suspects like the suit, the coat and the winter sweater were all made out of different parts. And though that is always the case with fashion pieces, this time all parts were clearly visible on the runway. Most designers worked pieces of leather into their looks. Like a piece of green leather on a Bottega Veneta suit, some crocodile leather on the top of a Calvin Klein sweater, leather sleeves (John Varvatos) and shoulders (Rick Owens, Yves Saint Laurent). Others mixed different types of wool, color and played with heavy and lighter fabrics. A fun way of mixing things up, especially with these thick winter pieces.
Sjaak Hullekes Amsterdam Fashion Week Preview
Japan inspired
After his Moroccan inspired collection last season, Sjaak Hullekes will present a Japan oriented collection of menswear this time. “I was inspired by Japan from before and after the industrialization. People in Japan really focus on tradition. Sepia pictures of traditionally dressed people in front of a flat were the starting point. Besides the Japanese style is just very beautiful. I love the folklore aspect of their way of dressing”, Sjaak says.
Details
The Japanese influences will be visible through the details of the clothes. “Menswear is always very much about details and with this collection it’s no different. You’ll recognize the Japanese style through the standing colors, certain fabrics, dessins and the Eastern overlap we used.”
Min‘yō
The Japan theme reaches even further. “The music, the colors and the title of the collection are Japan inspired as well. We’ve used faded colors, which we’ve seen in the sepia pictures, like beige, faded green, navy and brown/orange shades. The title of the collection is Min‘yō, which is traditional Japanese music. It represent the idea of continuing something and passing it on, which really appealed to me.”
Unconstructed
Throughout the new spring/summer collection, which will feature around thirty looks, the deconstructed signature of Sjaak Hullekes will be visible. “With most of my designs you can really see how they are created. I always look for fabrics and colors that give a design a certain strength. Plus, something has to feel really comfortable, like some of my jackets which are not lined.”
Casual chic
“The casual part of the collection is bigger this time than before. This because I personally really wanted to extend it. I want to wear more casual pieces myself. Therefore you’ll see more short jackets and safari jackets. One of the deconstructed jackets is my absolute favorite; it’s insane! It has a terracotta shade and we’ve used a contrasting fabric for both the color and the pockets. I think and hope it is going to do well.”
Head to toe
Sjaak recently launched his own perfume and will launch a collection of underwear (this collection will not be shown during Amsterdam Fashion Week) very soon; all part of the bigger plan. “I really feel the need to be able to dress a man from head to toe. I want to be a complete fashion house. The underwear, which is a very basic brief in both white and navy, arrives next week and will be sold quickly after that.”
New projects
“We’ve also just introduced our made to measure service, we are looking for our own store in Amsterdam and we’re working on a business-to-business level with companies like Microsoft, which is so much fun.”
Sjaak Hullekes will present his new menswear collection on Saturday 14 July at 06.00 PM
By Borre, Day show
That was quite a surprising show By Borre gave in Amsterdam this afternoon. It was all about movement indeed. Sportsmen demonstrated the comfortable, easy outfits of Borre Akkersdijk while performing gymnastics.
Paul Smith Menswear Catwalk Fashion Show Paris SS2013
Paul Smith seemed very optimistic regarding his crisp and colorful collection. Smith’s signature slim silhouettes reminded us of the Mods — the double-breasted suit jackets had strong shoulders and were paired with ankle-length pants in mismatched shades of peach, mustard and teal. A more laid-back vibe came in cotton or leather biker and blouson jackets. The whole collection offered a modern spin on Smith’s very British tailoring.
Streetfashion Paris menswear SS2013 Day 4
July 2, 2012 by Jetty
Filed under Events, Featured Items, Paris, People, Streetwear
What are you wearing during the fashionweeks? Your Jil Sander-shoes, your latest Prada-shirt or that vintage Gucci? Maybe we’ll spot you in Paris, Milan, New York or Amsterdam. During the fashionweeks we refresh our streetwear posts regularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style. Next stop: Paris Menswear Fashionweek.
Lanvin Menswear Catwalk Fashion Show Paris SS2013
The menswear-collection of Lanvin had a post-punk vibe. Black leather was one of the key ingredients, even used for shirts and ties under suits. Flowing high-waist pants worn with oversized white shirts with rolled sleeves reminded of Fred Astaire. There were boxy T-shirts, classic jackets with billowing backs, a ska-style black shirt with a neon front, and glam suits in glimmering silver.
Silky, ultra-light windbreakers in python and sheer nylon were worn like shirts, tucked into slim, shiny pants or over tailored shorts. Spring’s top trends for men — lightness, transparency, silky fabrics and upscale technical sportswear — were there.
Dior Homme Catwalk Fashion Show Paris SS2013
Kris Van Assche’s collection for Dior Homme was entirely in blue, the metal buttons and white/blue striped sweaters aside. Van Assche, in his methodical way, set out to present what he called “a complete wardrobe.”
Van Assche knows how to turn an idea over and over, tweaking it: showing a blazer, then shearing its sleeves, then removing its back. But the concept became skin when Van Assche rendered a few jackets and coats in nylon mesh, the better to show the construction inside.
Comme des Garcons Menswear Catwalk Fashion Show Paris SS2013
Rei Kawakubo sent an army of dressed-down guys onto her spring runway. Their hair dyed orange and clamped with studded leather headbands, the models navigated a grid of steel poles wearing pajama suits paired with slouchy overcoats. The designer underlined the collection’s rebellious mood by splicing together unexpected fabrics and silhouettes, such as a gray pinstripe coat with strips of black snakeskin and studded leather. Her simple shirt-and-pant combos came in fabrics that could come from a rocker’s wardrobe — red tartan, leopard print, camouflage and gold lame.
Hermes Menswear Catwalk Fashion Show Paris SS2013
The Hermes-collection designer Veronique Nichanian sent out were sporty silhouettes in unexpected fabrics. Like zippered parkas in chiffon calfskin; T-shirts in perforated leather; and sweaters inset with lambskin panels.
Appealing were the sophisticated, summery suits done in deep blue linen canvas or virtually sheer seersucker in pale shades. Along with a series of single-breasted, navy wool and mohair tuxedos.
Streetfashion Paris Menswear SS2013 Day 3
July 1, 2012 by Jetty
Filed under Featured Items, Menswear, models, Paris, People, Streetwear
What are you wearing during the fashionweeks? Your Jil Sander-shoes, your latest Prada-shirt or that vintage Gucci? Maybe we’ll spot you in Paris, Milan, New York or Amsterdam. During the fashionweeks we refresh our streetwear posts regularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style. Next stop: Paris Menswear Fashionweek.
