Walter van Beirendonck Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2012

That was sa quite disturbing mask the models were wearing at the Walter van Beirendonck-show, especially when you realize the models underneath the white skintone mask were black…. But those confronting themes are familiar when it comes to the Belgian designer. He’s not afraid of some discussion. His show  started out with well-crafted, sartorial looks in bold colors and plaids, which gave way to baggy streetwear, including mohair sweaters.

Junya Watanabe Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2012

Junya Watanabe is fascinated by all American work wear, and it’s not different with his new fw2012 collection. This time he focused  farmers, with the loose fitting jeans, the plaid shirts and leather suspenders. There were also (denim) suits with leather elbow patches and patches of leather and pleads.

Not really the most exciting collection of this week, but surely attractive to some men

Givenchy Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2012

Riccardo Tisci’s fall winter 2012 collection focused again at his signature clothes: sweatshirts, T-shirts, leggings and kilts. And again prominent prints and graphic elements, like stars and stripes.

The tailoring was black and red and chic. The designer also played with trompe-l’oeil layers, putting pea coat-like vests over leather jackets or wool topcoats. And the show ended with sparkles. The tops of white shirts twinkled with crystals, while black enamel stars came out over the shoulders of black sweaters.

Rick Owens Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2012

No darkness and monk-like dressing at Rick Owens for fall 2012. His collection looked quite sharp, also chic and masculine. The signature look was a slim, dropcrotch pant in black with a white shirt or turtleneck. Of course there was some leather too, like his signature black jacket, but that even had a sartorial cut.

Viktor & Rolf Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2012

Viktor&Rolf’s Monsieur is a modern gentleman. As ever, he’s a hybrid of classic intellectual and ravishing style icon.  Viktor&Rolf’s Autumn/Winter 2012 collection was inspired by this gentleman at home – taking cues from luxurious interior design treatments and translating them to apparel. The enhanced shoulder structure of silhouettes gives subtle reference to Viktor&Rolf’s female Atomic Bomb Collection – in a masculine rendition.

Outerwear and suiting continue to be iconic staples in the Monsieur wardrobe. Suiting evolves for this gentleman with refined silk tuxedo jackets paired with nappa leather trousers – an unexpected edge to classical eveningwear.  Outerwear is rich offering a range set to olives, burgundy, burnt mauve and deep emerald greens. Pieces are composed of unconstructed overcoats in suri and alpaca wool, cotton nylon parkas sleek in fit, cashmere wool military trenches in olive and black framed with shaved beaver and jacket variations with unique shaved and printed shearling treatments. Knitwear is versatile and functional as lighter outerwear – a coral reversible zipper-front sweater in shearling and crepe wool is a highlight.

 

Gucci Catwalk fashion Show Milan FW2012

Well it was very obvious that the Gucci-collection fw2012 is about romance and decadence. 19th century bohemian men played a major role in this mix of flower prints, velvets, jacquards and tapestry. The designer played with proportions putting big overcoats over chunky crew necks and cardigans over skinny trousers and riding boots. Army and navy-inspirations were also weaved into this collection.

Salvatore Ferragamo Catwalk Fashion Show Milan FW2012

You don’t have to tell designer Massimiliano Giornetti anything about power dressing, he knows what he is doing at Ferragamo. The fall-collection was powerful in all it’s classic, elegant tailoring:  suits and coats were strong and sharp, the ingredients soft and often velvet-like. Tweeds, bold herringbone  and speckled wools for outerwear, with colored velvet and moiré silks for evening jackets. Footwear stood out, especially the two toned dress shoes.
The colors were a mix of rusts and berry tones often mixing together different shades on looks through to the accessories.

Burberry Catwalk Fashion Show Milan FW2012

For his fall 2012 Burberry menswear-collection Christopher Baily tried to mix the British City with the British Country-style. That led into a dapper gentleman in a tailored suit, an umbrella with a hand painted handle and a warm, sometimes bulky outdoor coat.  The overall result was polite and charming, traditional and familiar. But sometimes also a bit dull and predictable.

Form-fitting tailored suits played the major role in this collection, some of which came in plum, olive or teal velvet — and others made from herringbone or tweed wool. For a more formal feel, Bailey put velvet collars onto tweed trenches and topcoats. The outdoor-feeling was given by all those typical outdoorsy sports-gear like fishing vests, quilted or not, shooting jackets in leather or suede, chunky sweaters and cardigans.Luckily the polka dot ties and shirts, appliqué fox heads on knits and leather gloves with punkish gold studs gave that typical Burberry edge to the clothes. It’s all in the details eventually.

Jil Sander Catwalk Fashion Show Milan FW2012

Raf Simons used all kinds of fabric to give his pitch black-collection for Jil Sander the right edge. On a black rubber runway and before a graffiti-stained door he sent out his darkest of dark collections. There was black leather and industrial-age fabrics glistening like wet asphalt to give archetypal male cliches like the businessman, the father, the office nerd an unbelievable and dangerous power.

The collection looked formal with handsome greatcoats, sculpted suits with seamed backs, and pristine shirts and ties. Simons played with proportions, from pencil slim to voluminous and flaring. Longer line coats, either tight or hanging straight, were a major statement.

Accessory of the season will definitely be the Jil Sander lunch-bag shaped leather goods. Sailor-suit flaps with prints of child-like motifs of whales, dinosaurs and fish gave it all a lighter attitude. Simons definitely set the tone for a new fall-season.

An no, no news about Christian Dior yet.

Costume National Catwalk Fashion Show Milan FW2012

Bohemians were the characters Ennio Capasa of Costume National was thinking about, as an antidote to a materialistic direction that he sees society taking. Capasa called his collection a remix of his dark roots and all his experiences over the years.  There were  space-age boots,  punky mohairs, and  teddy-boy proportions, all elements we’ve seen before in Capasa’s collections – which point towards his passion for British youth cults.