Dries van Noten Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2012

At least there is one designer who tries to mix humor and menswear to an elegant collection. Dries van Noten felt like doing something that would make people smile, and so he did. He mixed psychedelic prints with his signature menswear that had a military edge. The military coats, stovepipe trousers and sweaters came along well with the naive prints. The skinny jeans and shoes looked cool.

Also compliments to Dutch artists Gijs Frieling and Job Wouters who realized a mural as a backdrop during the show, featuring the same architectural and typographic motifs.

 

Round Up Paris/Milan Menswear SS2012

Responding to the shout out for creative design, as cited by Suzy Menkes in International Herald Tribune, we proceed like cherry pickers this season. Heading for fun and unexpected novelty we picked out the more juicy and snappy influences. Starting with the ETHNIC, here as a proven of artisanal excellence by Burberry Prorsum. Stating the omnipresence of THE DEEP BLUE, the most-favoured shade of the season (Dries van Noten). Happily shaken up by mashed up CHECKS as masterly executed by Raf Simons. Soothed by relaxed SANDBLASTED Sahara tailoring (Salvatore Ferragamo) appealing to our sense for well being. To conclude with the big bouncer, a fun feel for ECCENTRIC, with which Prada, amongst others, keeps up the spirit.

ETHNIC

Tribal pattern meets sporty elegance. Military tailoring adds detail to most minimal silhouettes. The story is mainly about pattern and finishing. Maasai warriors line up with modern day happy hippies. In warm earth and spice tones mingled with happy brights. The Burberry Prorsum collection is exemplary and celebrates its artisan roots.

 

THE DEEP BLUE

The international catwalks were flooded with deep, dense blue. Some items gleaming in wet look surfaces where others more natural and relaxed. Tension in graduated toning and shading as well as in texture where structure meets softness and natural meets high-tech. Roomy parkas and trench coats come in silks as well as nylon and sporty shorts layer long pants.

 

CHECKS

Checks serve the feel for pattern and print. From classic tartans and plaids at Gaultier, intricate kinetic patchwork at Raf Simons to slim silhouettes in black and white 60s mod checks at Gucci. Moncler Gamme Blue speeds up towards a more racy and sporty flow.

 

SANDBLASTED

Travelling south to Côte d’Azur while heading for Sahara desert. Safari and utilitarian jackets and pants with khaki as a key color. Jackets are belted and pants are wide at Salvatore Ferragamo. YSL presents some surprising placed lace-up details. Fabrics are plain and natural in pure cotton and linen looks.

 

ECCENTRIC

Think American tourists playing golf in the 50s. A touch of Hawaii and American retro with a fun dose of bad taste. Tailored, double-breasted suits mismatch with loud clashing floral printed shirts or pants. Western shirts embellished with rhinestones, recall memories of young Elvis. Prada and Kenzo spice up there ranges with funky, colourful accessories

 

 

SPORTSWEAR

The Olympics next year seem to have energised the runway shows and positioned sport at the heart of fashion. Outdoor inspiration leads to functional garments with a utilitarian foundation. Hiking, fishing, sailing and hunting as well as golf, all fuelled with a healthy dose of irony. Mesh serves as a key fabric look at both Dolce & Gabbana and Moncler Gamme Bleu.

 

FOULARD

This will become big! Celine was the one to set off with foulard prints last season, with Prada in her footsteps starring panel printed monkeys and bananas. Now time is ripe for a true 80’s Versace revival of loud head to toe decorative foulard patterns as staged by D&G. Brave, bold and baroque. It concludes in a look reminiscent of muscle boys as photographed by Bruce Weber and Herb Ritts in the 80’s.

Stylespot is a collaboration with Stijlinstituut Amsterdam

Highlights of Menswear Milan SS2012

Summer 2011 has just started and we’re already on our way to 2012. Milan menswear-shows brought us some new trends. Not any BIG news really, but shifts in menswear go slowly and rather invisible. Much talked about shows were the Prada-show, with Miucca’s take on golf and all the rules, rituals and codes that belong to that world; the Jil Sander show and Raf Simons’s new black and the Versace-show which looked like an homage to the old Gianni-times. But the seven main trends – besides the wider pants, longer jackets and absence of ties – so far in Milan are the return of sportswear, blue as the new favorite color, bold prints, new checks, tribal-elements, the motor-jacket and the playboy as the new icon.

Sportswear

With the Olympics starting next year in London, it seems a lot of designers are finding inspiration in sportswear. From the tongue in cheek-golfwear from Prada to the fencing-game at Moncler Gamme Bleu. In between you’ll find references to tennis, swimwear, running and sailing. You’ll see it in the color white, the shirts, shorts, the blue and red stripes, the shoes and pants.

Blue

Every kind of blue came back in different collections, there were even designers who presented a whole collection in this color. It’s commercial, it’s fresh, it’s suitable for a lot of men and it’s the color of independence, trust and ambition. And in the world of today men can use that.

New Checks

If you’re not into those new bold Versace-esque prints you can always turn to the good old fashioned checks. Well, old fashioned – designers gave them a new look, twisted them, rearranged them and came up with a new version. And they love to mix them together.

Bold Prints

Ready for some new, bold prints? After the color-blocking from this summer, the Versace-esque print will be the new next thing to show off. And nobody does it better that Donatella Versace herself. Miami here we come!

Tribal

Tribal influences are not really big, but they surely will spice up a suit or jeans – and that’s what menswear needs right now. And when Christopher Bailey of Burberry uses them, you know a trend is born.

The new playboy

Skinny boys were replaced by playboys with a real body in Milan last week. And fashion also embraces the new playboy in the way he dresses and empasizes his body.

The short jacket

With the playboy comes also the short jacket, that accentuate the torso and leaves room to the hips and legs. It also adds a younger touch to an outfit, as long as it’s in leather or plain, minimal cotton. The padded version of Prada seems only suitable for small, skinny boys without a six-pack.