Christopher Kane for men

Christopher Kane will soon launch his first menswear line at Dover Street Market. The designer already sold a capsule collection of T-shirts there and will now expand this line, thanks to its success.
Kane created sweaters, cardigans, black leather suit jackets, T-shirts and sporty leather shorts.
The collection arrives in Dover Street Market early December.

(Vogue)

Catwalktrends FW2010: oh boy!

For fall men should keep an eye on their closets, cause their wardrobe is still not save. Putting on your man’s clothes for a masculine look is again going to be a big trend. Yet the boyfriend jeans is not so cool any more and is replaced by a pair of pleated pants, for good.

Many brands promoted the masculine look in their fall collections (Ann Demeulemeester, Dior, Ferragamo, Marc Jacobs, Kenzo and Michael Kors to name a few). Chloe stood out the most with not only wide pleated pants, but also big coats, in grey and in beige. Yet, as manly as these outfits looked, Chloe’s way of styling still made every outfit feel sexy. Also in other collections details such as thin belts, tucked up sleeves and low v-necks made the masculine looks appear feminine.

At Hermes all models appeared dressed up like man. They wore black leather suits, ties and hats and carried umbrellas. Yet it was the fit of the outfits that gave the looks a feminine twist.

Another label that took the menswear trend to another level was Sonia Rykiel. Gigantic woollen suits and coats were sent off on the runway. Dutch model Mirte Maas had to open the show in a grey woollen suit that seemed about ten sizes too big for her. But it was Sonia Rykiel’s version of the masculine trend and she sure had fun with it.

Paris Catwalk Fashion Show fw2010: Paul Smith

Looking at the diverse types of models that walked in Paul Smith’s fashion show, you’d think he must have wanted to reach a large audience. The models were as different as they could be:  young, old, pale, bold, long, bearded, red-haired etc.

The clothes were just as diverse. Shirts with floral prints, checked jackets, colorful trousers and bowler hats were easily combined in one look. And while some clothes were appropriate for punky students other seemed perfect for late night dinners.

In this collection Paul Smith mixed natural colors like brown, gray and beige with bright ones like pink, blue, red and purple.

A few jackets had decorated safety pins attached and we saw sunglasses in some of the breast pockets.

Items that really caught our eye were a black poncho, a long cobalt blue overcoat and a turquoise colored suit. The show ended with some slick black dinner jackets.

Then Paul Smith and all his models came on to the runway in a chaotic manner that matched the fashion show’s overall vibe.

Paris Menswear fw2010 Impressions: Garage Turenne

Garage Turenne in Paris is one of the favorite spots of (mostly Belgian) designers to show their collection. At least you can take shelter for the rain and the wind during the loooooong waiting.

Paris Catwalk Fashion fw2010: Junya Watanabe

Junya Watanabe reinterpreted the Jazz Age and made it to a fine collection. He gave the tailoring a twist— double-breasted suits illuminated with red stitching — and then meld formal and casual, which has become the season’s major trend. Watanabe made that mix more than putting a nylon parka over a suit or teaming a tailored jacket with jeans. He showed inserts of leather in suits and made the sportswear as powerful as the more formal pieces. The designer also put in another strong story: the revival of the camel coat.

Paris Catwalk Fashion Show fw2010: Louis Vuitton

Dutch designer Paul Helbers presented a very wearable Louis Vuitton menswear collection. His decent-looking models wore items you could easily imagine on men passing by on the street.

The clothes came in masculine shades like dark gray, black and brown. Paul Helbers designed knitted cardigans and double-breasted, long, woolly coats. As seen in other f/w menswear collections the LV-jackets – as well as his bags – often had leather details. The leather used for some coats almost looked fake, while it had no creases, tears or what-so-ever.

A lot of big bags were shows. Christian Schoeler had painted some Vienna-inspired ones in white with fading colors, representing winter landscapes. Most models wore leather gloves and walked on boot-clogs in which they’ d tucked their legs.

At the end of the show both Paul Helbers and Marc Jacobs appeared on the runway, while Marc Jacobs applauded for his Dutch colleague.

Trends ss2010: the men’s skirt

The men’s skirt has been all over the news lately. Maybe because fashion brand H&M recently introduced a men’s skirt for their spring/summer collection 2010. And usually when H&M comes up with a trend it is picked up by many followers.

Of course H&M is not the first brand to introduce the men’s skirt. We’ve seen this fashion item on the runway for years. One true lover and wearer of skirts is designer  Marc Jacobs, who takes his bows most of the time dressed in a kilt.

This year there were some skirts in the menswear collections as well. At Thom Browne we spotted an ultra short version, at the show of Jean Paul Gaultier (one of the first designers with skirts for men)  the skirts were much longer. Rick Owens’ models wore multiple layers, one of those layers being the skirt. Other brands which had skirts in their collection were John Galliano, Francisco van Benthum and Kris van Assche.

We’re very curious if the skirt will become the trend for men in 2010.

Trends ss2010: tight fitted

At the menswear fashion shows we spotted lots of suits. Complete suits in one color or just combinations of pants and jackets. The remarkable thing about those pants and jackets was that they were all pretty tight fitting. So the muscular bodies of the models were clearly accentuated.

Givenchy, Gucci, Calvin Klein, Lanvin, Moschino and Paul Smith showed some tight  looks. The jackets were often left unbuttoned.

Another trend we saw at the menswear collections were the tucked up sleeves. The boys at the fashion shows of Costume National, Vivienne Westwood, Etro, Raf Simons Lanvin and John Richmond  had it all. We spotted some short sleeves as well at the Neil Barrett and the Cerrutti show.

So  wear your suit a little tighter next season. Loose fitted is so 2009!

Back to the future: CKFree

Outside the venue of Calvin Klein in Milan we spotted a group of gorgeous looking guys in a black Mustang convertible. The picture took us back to the future. Actually the car stars in CK’s new adcampaign for the men’s fragrance CKFree. It’s one of those young, fresh, upbeat fragrances we know so well of Calvin Klein.

Trussardi 1911 Catwalk Fashion Show Menswear FW09

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