Max Mara Fashion Show Milan Womenswear SS2016

You know that moment, most times early in the morning, when you’re in hurry and you button up your coat in the wrong way? Like a weird asymmetric zig zag buttoning. And you go like: shit, another minute lost. Well that, according to Max Mara, wasn’t so bad after all. In fact, it’s runway material. The models showed many trenchcoats and double-breasted pea coats all buttoned up the wrong way. It was a fun and imperfect detail in the overal perfect, clean and modest mono-themed collection. Or as they called it on Instagram: Nautical simplicity with a luxury twist, which was accompanied by a backdrop and catwalk projected with waves. Who would’ve thought you could actually do walk on water? So yes, before we knew it we were checking off a sea of classic stripes, cotton maritime sweaters, the blue-white-ivory-red combinations, the rope handles on bags (their signature JBags even had ropes), gold buttons, semaphore flags, nautical symbols and sweet dolphin and seagull prints. The flared trousers, oversized sleeves, see-through details and starred tank tops added a little rock ‘n roll touch to it. Just like the soundtrack of the show ‘What Shall We Do With The Drunken Sailor’. Get on board, mate! This ship is ready for the waters. Drunk or not.

Max Mara Catwalk Fashion Show Milan FW2015

Marilyn Monroe was the muse of the Max Mara design team. Her famous 1962 beach shoot with George Barris, in which she covered up in a Norwegian sweater, camel blanket and sea-green towel, fueled the color scheme and lineup of retro bombshells in deluxe knits and coats.
Gigi Hadid, the model of the moment, opened and closed the show in a pair of mannish camel coats clutched around her like she had a chill, covering everything but her cleavage. An oversize take on the traditional camel cable knit was pretty perfect. Anyone in the market for a big coat to sink into next season will have options: a nubby tailored overcoat; a turquoise fur; a pale-pink brushed alpaca. For novelty, there were colorful leopard prints and shiny quilted silk styles with fur linings. Retro lady bombers, sweatshirts and pencil skirts fleshed out the merchandise for those who want something to wear under the coats.

Max Mara Catwalk Fashion Show Milan Womenswear SS2015

Were we watching a seventies show? Due to, among other things, the choice of hats Max Mara didn’t really breathe S/S2015 at first. Yet after a closer look we could see the modernity of the clothing. Most looks seemed a combination of a mid calf length pencil skirt and one or mops layered tops. Yet with all of them being fully printed it was hard to tell where one piece of clothing ended and the other began. Let alone distinguish a skirt from a pair of culottes. In any case Max Mara focuses on the waist for summer with not only skirts but long, tailored double breasted suit jackets too. XL cardigans and trenchcoats were worn over sheer tops. Slouchy belts and silky scarves added some chicness of the collection as those suede boots would work well with just about any 2015 ensemble.

Max Mara Catwalk Fashion Show Milan Womenswear FW2014

Inspired by Scotland Max Mara came up with a luxurious collection this week. Full of rich materials with lots of texture the brand focused on it’s strongest asset; outerwear. With a wide range of classy coats (from woolen and tweed to quilted and leather) to choose from, the Max Mara women won’t be cold next winter. They were worn with pencil skirts (over the knee, mid calf), paired with sleeveless woolen tops, designs with PVC details and crocodile printed gold creations (even shoes!). Not tucked in, but worn to their full length, far below the waist. The designs may have been classic; the careless appeal of the models (hair undone, hardly any make-up, yet bright red lips) made them look young and fresh. As fresh as the collection’s lichen green, which already has us in deep thoughts figuring out with what tone to match it.

Max Mara Catwalk Fashion Show Milan Womenswear SS2014

The Max Mara show opened with a slipdress and matching topper in a pale neutral, the first of many of these monochromatic “twin sets,” as the show notes called such combos. The collection had a minimalist, urbane mission; a cashmere head scarf was the only homespun touch in a quietly show.

Besides those roomy, buttonless coats other sleek options included double-face cashmere camisoles, mannish jackets, trim culottes and pencil skirts, and streamlined rompers and jumpsuits with boxy, T-shirt-shaped tops.

With colors grounded in pearly shades, variation came via the fabrics and textures: linens robust and in handkerchief weights; smooth leather; mottled denim-looking canvas; buy now viagra sheer knits, and silver and gold lamé.

Besides the creme colors vivid jewel tones showed up changing the allure and impact of the same silhouettes.

Max Mara Catwalk Fashion Show Womenswear Milan FW2013

Roomy, bathrobelike toppers in thick fabrics were the key-items of Max Mara’s collection, along with loose pants that fell over brown-and-mustard sneakers. The Max Mara design team took a little inspiration from Bauhaus and stuck to a basic palette of camel, gray, black and dark blue, keeping the focus on shapes, and outerwear. Rounded shoulders were sometimes accentuated with leather patches.

 

Max Mara Catwalk Fashion Show SS2013 Milan

Beige, sand, black; for SS2013 Max Mara stuck to the basic color palette, we’ve been seeing for quite a few seasons now. And we couldn’t blame the brand that has booked quite a few successes (remember the popular camel colored statement coats?). This time around there was a lot more at sight though. Neutral shades were mixed with leopard and floral prints, checks and a touch of shiny lavender blue.

The models’ dress code appeared to be a mix of sporty, safari and chic as the girls combined animal printed pencil skirts and loose fitting striped tees. Jackets looked chic and tough at the same time and materials like suede, wool and silk worked together perfectly. Jumpsuits, oversized bags, sloughy headbands, epaulettes and ankle strap shoes completed Max Mara’s urban jungle… We sure can’t wait to work those leopard & checks prints!

 

Max Mara Catwalk Fashion Show Milan FW2012

Bauhaus architecture and the movies of Fritz Lang were inspirations for MaxMara’s clean shapes accentuated by a single sharp detail or contrast, like a wool coat with a skirt of shaven fur or wool jersey tops banded in crocodile-print leather. There were also wool dresses and jackets with draped backs that reminded of  a classic couture shape, and a revival of the jumpsuit, now looking like a short  wool jacket with slim trousers. Sometimes it had a  naval character with the navy blue coats, breton-striped shirts and wide pants. And not only the navy went through the collection, also trher military influences.

Max Mara Catwalk Fashion Show Milan SS2011

The sporty vibe initiated in NYC continues this week in Milan. This morning Max Mara too, presented us with some very sporty designs. Like oversized dresses worn with leggings and short leather ‘baseball’ jackets.

Yet sport wasn’t the only theme of the show; we spotted some minimalism and some sixties as well. Not the Twiggy kind of sixties though, no it was the pure aesthetic of that decade that inspired Ian Griffiths, head of the Max Mara design team. It was the futuristic silhouette and the clean lines that originated from that inspiration.

Everything looked like it was made for comfort. If a jacket didn’t need an extra pocket, it didn’t get one and all kind of other extras (zippers, belts, studs) were left behind for the ultimate minimalism look & feel.

The many camel and sandtones weren’t necessarily new for Max Mara, but the added turquoise hues gave the collection the right amount of summer freshness. It will be an easy-chic summer 2012 with Max Mara.

Max Mara Catwalk Fashion Show Milan SS2011

Somehow the summerseason is never the strongest at Max Mara. Winter means coats and they’re good at that. So the trenchcoats and suits were the best of the spring summer collection plus the long dresses in solid colors like red, purple and yellow.

Color was an important theme of the collection besides minimalism. The team at Max Mara tried to translate the big trend of next summer into a special look, but somehow the short flared pants looked a bit outdated and too tight for now and the use of some hairy fabric did not quite succeed. And even the translation of a minimal style was not totally convincing. Although the striped jackets and dresses and nude-colored shirts and shorts were a good shot.

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