Marc Jacobs Catwalk Fashion Show New York FW2012

It was a spectacular set at the Marc Jacobs’ show yesterday. The designers’ friend artist Rachel Weinstein was responsible for this paper construction looking like “a broken castle. Marie Antoinette’s version of ruins”, she told the press. But nothing reminded of 18th century France. It was more like modern streetstyle meeting 17th century – and it was clearly a celebration of fashion and clothes.

The models wore pilgrim shoes with giant shiny buckles,and large furry hats. It was magical and poetic. A cacophony of textures and colours, Jacobs evoked a strange sort of folkloristic glamour. There was a continuation of the past two season’ fascination with contrasting fabrications. Wool stoles were buttoned over wool coats worn on top of patchwork skirts above cropped pants. Prints ranged from oversize paisleys to floral pencil drawings, and holographic appliqués dripped off dresses. Volumes were turned up to, including padded hips.

 

Marc Jacobs Catwalk Fashion Show New York ss2012

For a change, Marc Jacobs closed the New York Fashion Week. The Lexington Avenue Armory was decorated like a dance hall situated in the twenties.   As the Philip Glass opera Einstein on the Beach started, a sweeping gold curtain parted to reveal all the models waiting to hit the runway.

The collection was a cocktail of strange elements. Starting with the see-through plastic cowboy boots. And also: drop-waist flapper dresses, denim workwear, clear plastic sewn into skirts and dresses, sporty sweatshirts, and techno-checks.  Some of the silhouettes looked like last season’s narrow silhouettes, but there were also boxy, drop-waist shapes that reminded of the 1920’s. There was plenty of fringe,  bold-colored sequins and paillettes, and a lot of that clear plasticTextural experimentation was strong in this collection. To journalists backstage, Jacobs explained he didn’t want his collection “to feel real”.

 

Marc Jacobs Catwalk Fashion Show New York FW2011

It was all about polka dots and  looking polished at Marc Jacobs. Again, but now two decades later Marc Jacobs decided to use his favorite print again. It was a big step from his YSL/Seventies inspired spring-collection, but the designer couldn’t care less. He told WWD he’d thought about all things he’d done in the past and what he’d loved. He ran through all of his collections and presented his description of classic. From the trompe l’oeil to the polka dots to the glam collection that had the rubber, and the sweats that he’d done, all those crazy American classics. He just wanted to have fun.

We’re familiar with his mood-swings now, so it’s goodbye to gentle fluidity and hello to an austere line that was sliver thin and had a couture-like precision but also a girlish charm. The dots came small, medium and large; matt and shiny; flat and 3D and in an various fabrics: prints and embroideries, rubber and pailettes, fur and fake fur. Often Jacobs started with a white shirt as a first layer under  a boxy sweatshirt or curvy jacket over slim, sexy skirts. He also showed  sweaters, a men’s coat,  sailor pants and romantic lace dresses detailed with  jabots.

As for accessories, spotted socks, mini-berets and a range of slush-busting snow boots completed the collection. Plus handbags in vibrant car-paint.

Streetfashion New York Womenswear SS2011 Day 3

What are you wearing during the coming fashionweeks? Your Louboutin-heels, your latest Dries van Noten-jacket or that vintage Prada? Maybe we’ll spot you in Paris, Milan, New York or Amsterdam. During the fashionweeks we refresh our streetwear posts regularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style. Next stop: New York Fashion Week.

Marc by Marc Jacobs Catwalk Fashion Show New York SS2011

Today Marc Jacobs’ models had the same frizzy hairdo as in his other show yesterday. Yet apart from the hair there was a whole different vibe going on. The spring/summer collection had everything in it the Marc by Marc Jacobs brand is famous for: flirty, playful, bright, young, wearable clothes and accessories.

Marc Jacobs chose orange and bright (almost neon) yellow as his main colors. He used those in his jumpsuits, summer dresses and skirts. Even the thick bangles and streetwise bags came in those eye-catching shades. Not to mention the models’ orange-colored lips.

The silhouette was feminine and playful at the same time. In most designs the waist was accentuated, the skirts and dresses came by in a flared version and the pants ended above the models’ ankles.

Remarkable were some ultra-short, yet high-waisted shorts and classic bathing suits. Less impressive were several shirt dresses and some navy-inspired red & white striped Tees. Also we must say the helmet hats most models wore on their heads looked kinda awkward.

For men Marc Jacobs came up with long (trench)coats, sweaters and shirts. The legs and sleeves of most pants and jackets seemed too short (7/8), but judging from the female looks this will be the style for next spring.

The male models wore their looks very careless; loose tie, standing shirt collar, tucked up sleeves and sneakers. Very cool & funky indeed!

All looks were perfectly balanced and had the right feeling, color and fit for the slightly younger audience Marc Jacobs aims at with this line. Their might have been an overkill on the stripes, but overall we liked what we saw.

Marc Jacobs Catwalk Fashion Show New York SS2011

Marc Jacobs’ fashion shows have changed a lot in the last few years. They used to start 3 hours late and Monday night it appeared Marc and his crew was too early. Half an hour before the show his team Tweeted ‘Marc’s ready now. Were waiting for editors.’ Eventually the show started exactly one time, which led to Courtney Love watching only the tail end of the show.

With Vivaldi’s ‘Summer’ coming from the speakers Marc’s first models entered the catwalk. After only one look we could tell what Marc’s inspiration was. His seventies-theme was visible in every little detail.

There were easy breezy dresses, blouses and jumpsuits all, of course, in the right seventies shades (burgundy, amber, coral pink, Byzantine, bright maroon). The busy prints from that era were present too, as well as the flared pants, which we saw on a jumpsuit and a metallic pair of pants. The shorts were tiny and the slits were high. Lots of fabrics were sheer ones and the pants were high waisted.

The make-up was perfect for the show. The models had bleached eyebrows, shiny eyelids (from lots of Vaseline) and matte, stained lips. Their hair was all frizzy and often decorated by an enormous flower.

Those flowers (which were actually lily’s) popped up everywhere in the show. Around the models’ necks and waists and on the collars of their clothes. Large hats, round sunglasses en small bags and clutches completed the looks.

Marc Jacobs brought back the seventies! And he did so in a very cool and modern way. So just like the curvy collection he designed for Louis Vuitton last season this one is bound the set the trend for a whole new fashion season. (And we’re so excited!)

Ps. It was rumoured that the show area is also the backdrop of the spring/summer campaign. Marc Jacobs might have show the campaign in tandem with the show.

Trend Report FW2010: Fabulous Fifties

Women with curves can be happy ‘cause coming fall is about the feminine silhouette. Breats, hips and butts don’t have to be hidden, but are celebrated! We see circle skirts, wasp-waists and accentuated breats.

Louis Vuitton and Prada definitely were the trend setters for this fifties vibe. Marc Jacobs showed a whole collection full of women-friendly designs. He even let some of the bigger models walk in his fashion show to point out that some extra curves can look just fine.

Miuccia Prada did the same thing. She mainly accentuated the breasts with her dresses. And she let models without a size zero, like our Dutchies Lara Stone and Doutzen Kroes, walk the show.

Apart from Vuitton and Prada designers like Paul Smith, Dries van Noten and Fendi showed some fifty-inspired outfits as well. Dolce & Gabbana did so too, yet they showed pencil skirts instead circle ones.

So this fall, you don’t have to worry about your fuller hips and big boobs. Celebrate them by putting on circle skirts, small waist belts and tight tops.

Ps. Wear a headband or a Brigit Bardot-esque ponytail to complete the look!

CFDA-Awards 2010

The CFDA-awards are considered to be the Oscars of the international fashionworld and is organised by the Council of Fashion designers of America. It’s one of the hottest tickets on the fashion calendar, and the awards are much coveted.

The Swarovski Awards, which are given to emerging talent, went to Jason Wu favourite of Michelle Obama.  He fought off competition from Joseph Altuzara and Prabal Gurung who won in the womenswear category. Richard Chai landed the menswear prize and Alexander Wang received the award for accessories.

The biggest prize of the night, Womenswear Designer of the Year, was won by Marc Jacobs. Christopher Bailey picked up the International Designer of the Year Prize.

There were also some special awards handed out. Michael Kors, the only winner to receive a standing ovation, was presented with the Lifetime Achievement Award by Anna Wintour. Legendary model Iman was given the Fashion Icon Award.

Sarah Jessica Parker, who was wearing an Alexander McQueen-dress hand-picked for her by the label’s new head of design, Sarah Burton led a tribute to the late, great designer.  She was followed by a parade of some of McQueen’s most iconic designs.

Marc by Marc Jacobs Catwalk Fashion Show New York FW2010

The models at Marc Jacobs’ second show were as loosely styled as the ones at his first show this week. The hair and make-up stayed natural and even the clothes looked as if no one bothered to think about it too much.

The Marc by Marc Jacobs collection had a very youthful vibe. The careless models looked somewhat like rebellious teenagers who just came out of school.

The first few girls wore striped dresses, skirts and tops combined with neutral pants and jackets. The boys wore wide pants with shirts, cardigans and winter coats with fur collars. All coats and jackets had some military influences, which we’ve seen in many fw2010 fashion shows already.

The first half of the show we saw hues of red, olive, khaki and beige, which looked perfect for fall. Then during the second half of the show, after a few tartan designs, the clothes mostly turned black. The models, who wore dark shades, looking as if they were going to a funeral.

Overall the collection was very tame and serious. With most skirts and dresses at knee-length all looks seemed appropriate for wearing to a family dinner.

Marc Jacobs clearly wasn’t in the mood to scream and shout, but hopefully next time he brings back some fun to his fashion.

Marc Jacobs Catwalk Fashion Show New York FW2010

No final changes or last minutes alterations were possible at Marc Jacobs’ fashion show. All of his models were already visible on stage at the beginning of the show. At first they were standing in a wooden frame, wrapped up in brown paper. Yet as Marc Jacobs tore off the paper they just stood there waiting to hit the runway.

Fortunately they didn’t have to wait very long. Because since Marc Jacobs banned celebs at his show this year he was able to start the show on time, for once. (His shows used to always start way too late, one time the delay was three hours.)

The first few outfits of the show could best be described as simple and sober. The wide skirts and the neutral grey shades did not make our hearts beat faster.

Then it got a little funkier as large fur coats with huge fur collars and cuffs were introduced. Though the hues of grey and beige were the same and they stayed the same throughout the collection.

The three new faces from last season, our Dutch top models, walked in the show as well. Bregje Heinen appeared in one of the sheer dresses of the collection. Patricia van der Vliet wore one too, yet hers was combined with a long striped coat. Mirte Maas wore a pair of colored glasses, which didn’t look too cool.

Several sequined looks reminded us of the fact that we were watching a Marc Jacobs fashion show for the winter of 2010/2011. We’d almost forget that while none of the clothes in this collection were very renewing.

But it seemed that was exactly Marc Jacobs’ point. He told the press: ‘There’s so much striving for newness now that newness feels less new.’ So he purposely didn’t go for something new or different. He just showed he knows what he’s doing and showed he’s good at it too.

But we’re not satisfied that easily…

The show ended with a few shiny dresses. Yet while the models wore hardly any make up and just let their hair hang loose the finale didn’t look very impressive. Marc could have put a little bit more effort into that part, if you ask us.

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