Marc by Marc Jacobs Catwalk Fashion Show New York FW2015

Luella Bartley and Katie Hillier’s are now designing the Marc by Marc Jacobs collection for one year, and their message of youth, energy and grit remained strong and unwavering in attitude and aesthetic.

Bartley and Hillier have already secured their girl’s identity through a commendable consistency in the collections — the military references, graphic art, motor jackets and tailored skirts with tulle. For fall they steered in a defiant but positive direction, drawing on references including the work of artist William Morris, the Guardian Angels, the 1979 film “The Warriors” and Jeremy Deller’s political posters, which were channeled into graphic decorative statements.

The most notable progression were the long, lean silhouettes of structured maxi skirts and dresses, some with utility pockets, some bearing Morris’ pretty Arts and Crafts prints in shades of bright blue and muted green. The length gave the look a cool maturity that resonated in the refined cuts of neat, tailored fencing jackets, skinny cropped trousers and short dresses with molded bell-shaped skirts that had a smooth buoyancy.

Marc by Marc Jacobs Catwalk Fashion Show New York Womenswear SS2015

Energy — the driving force of the planet, whether it unites, divides, uplifts or negates. In a matter of three seasons, Katie Hillier and Luella Bartley have infused Marc by Marc Jacobs with the kind of charge that people seek out. Young, fierce and intense, the powerful attitude established for fall gained momentum for spring.

‘Be who you are’ would be the mantra of the spring Marc by Marc girl. Wearing a cropped T-shirt layered under a plastic, pastel-blue polka-dot bandeau and matching skirt, herhair twisted into a mohawk of mini-buns, she would be the confident nonconformist at the party — intimidating but probably a lot of fun.

 

Marc by Marc Jacobs Catwalk Fashion Show New York Womenswear FW2014

Katie Hillier and Luella Bartley are the new designers of the Marc by Marc Jacobs-collection from now on. They presented their first collection yesterday. The designers wasted no time establishing a strong point of view: The new Marc by Marc girl is badass, if charmingly so. A culmination of street culture, grunge and sporty irreverence — the elements Marc Jacobs used to define the label in its infancy — the new look was filed under BMX ninjas. Bartley and Hillier had in mind an active person with energy, a bit feisty and sulky.
Spare tailoring was established first with a plain black shirt over a white turtleneck bodysuit and navy trousers, amped up with extreme accessories: a shiny black obi and giant high-tops. There were sharp blazers, long wrap skirts and neat coats, one with oversize fit, all of it cut with an edge. From there, Hillier and Bartley unleashed a surge of fearless, subversive spirit that mixed BMX style with Japanese manga and warrior motifs.

Marc by Marc Jacobs Catwalk Fashion Show New York Womenswear SS2014

At the Marc by Marc Jacobs show boys and girls dressed alike in a variation of suits took us back to the eighties. Almost everything got a shiny touch, varying from metallic pieces (like a silver coat and a blue sequined jumpsuit) to shimmering silk designs (like a high waisted graphical red and white ensemble or a light blue silky suit) and sportive satin shorts and jackets. Flamelike figures and studded stars buy cheap viagra now even had a bit of a circus feeling to them, yet overall the vibe was sporty and relaxed. We’re curious to see just how flattering some of the fabrics will look on “real women”, but Marc will surely have some less extreme, afforable pieces ready for his large fanbase.

Marc by Marc Jacobs Catwalk Fashion Show Womenswear New York FW2013

Marc Jacobs loves the seventies and he chose to use the decade again for his fall 2013 collection. This time he explored the more polished side of the period which ended up with simple dresses and tailored separates. The color-palette was build around shades of orange, red and blues with some graphic, colorful clashing prints.

Marc by Marc Jacobs Catwalk Fashion Show New York SS2013

Layering infused with a dose of Bananarama style that’s what Marc by Marc Jacobs ss 2013 is about. Oversized shirts were tucked into rolled-up baggy pants, a full-skirted peplum dress in faded floral denim and patchwork designs combined checks, gingham and paisley for a youthful touch The show’s cool styling (scarves for belts and hair accessories) offered countless ways of putting a wardrobe together.

Marc by Marc Jacobs Catwalk Fashion Show New York FW2012

For his second line Marc by Marc Jacobs, the designer mixed milirairy influences with a youthful style. Lot of dresses, from a red satin onewith purple appliqués and a gathered waist  to  smock dresses. Two-tone A-line pleated skirts reminded of schoolgirls. Knits were slouchy and cosy, and jackets ranged from the fuzzy double-breasted coat to more linear, car coats to parkas with a furry hood.

Silhouettes were practical and cool, nothing overly trendy, just foundation pieces for a smart looking wardrobe.

 

Marc by Marc Jacobs Catwalk Fashion Show New York SS2012

The presentation of Marc Jacobs’ main collection is delayed by Hurricane Irene, so we’ll have to wait for his master’s collection until Thursday, the last day of New York Fashion Week. His second line Marc by Marc Jacobs was presented yesterday. And what a surprise. Instead of his signature vintage look and feel and references to other decades, this was a sleeker, cleaner and more grown up collection.

In the press release Bauhaus was mentioned as a source of influence, and minimalism certainly defined the collection in silhouette and color. There were boxy tops, shorts and simple shift dresses and skirts. Plain but powerful.

Marc by Marc Jacobs Catwalk Fashion Show New York FW2011

There was a forties meets seventies feeling in the collection of Marc Jacobs’ second line, Marc by Marc Jacobs. What that translated into was a primmer, nerdier version of the Seventies, but with Jacobs’ vibe. This came across in the glassy, polished blouses and dresses that left practically everything to the imagination. This was not a sexy collection, nor was it sexless, it just maintained a more professional, adult mentality. The chunky knits, effortless dresses and sizable pants in muddy fall colours of orange and brown had a thrifted, serious quality to them. It somteimes reminded of Annie Hall. Also attractive was the Navajo-style ethnic prints on jackets and a long poncho.

This was a very commercial and dressed collection, but done in a casual way. Elegant dressing the easy way. Don’t we all want that?

Marc by Marc Jacobs Catwalk Fashion Show New York FW2010

The models at Marc Jacobs’ second show were as loosely styled as the ones at his first show this week. The hair and make-up stayed natural and even the clothes looked as if no one bothered to think about it too much.

The Marc by Marc Jacobs collection had a very youthful vibe. The careless models looked somewhat like rebellious teenagers who just came out of school.

The first few girls wore striped dresses, skirts and tops combined with neutral pants and jackets. The boys wore wide pants with shirts, cardigans and winter coats with fur collars. All coats and jackets had some military influences, which we’ve seen in many fw2010 fashion shows already.

The first half of the show we saw hues of red, olive, khaki and beige, which looked perfect for fall. Then during the second half of the show, after a few tartan designs, the clothes mostly turned black. The models, who wore dark shades, looking as if they were going to a funeral.

Overall the collection was very tame and serious. With most skirts and dresses at knee-length all looks seemed appropriate for wearing to a family dinner.

Marc Jacobs clearly wasn’t in the mood to scream and shout, but hopefully next time he brings back some fun to his fashion.