Maison Martin Margiela Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Womenswear FW2014

A sober collection which had British tweeds as a starting point welcomed us at Maison Martin Margiela. First off was a long grey tweed coat, followed by a camel colored sleeveless ensemble. There was a black/brownish tweed suit with strong shoulders and a navy shaded pleated tweed dress worn over a suit in the same color. Midi skirts, overalls and perfectly pleated pants and what looked like a fifties inspired tailored dress were sent out. The focus was on the models’ waists, which was accentuated by small tied leather belts (in camel, red and black). Oh and they sported leather boots, bags and collars too. On perfect pleated pants models sported feminine lace tops, thick Nordic sweaters (again with strong shoulders) and strapless suit jackets. Masculine inspired, but a perfectly feminine collection all together.

Maison Martin Margiela Catwalk Fashion Show Womenswear Paris FW2013

Since Martin himself is no longer on board Maison Martin Margiela has been rediscovering itself. Today’s collection was proof of that as it was not the most coherent line up. Yet the fashion house did present some strong designs that proudly carried the name of the French fashion label. Oversize and menswear seemed to be the red line in the show the houses described as a “rally” in the show notes. Overall, suits, pinstripe waistcoats (and quite a few other ones – patent leather and fur – too). Black and white looks were given a hand painted yellow or pink twist as more color followed on patent orange and red leather and strangely crafted, multicolored mesh tops. The finale of floor sweeping panel dresses that seemed to have some kind of ad texts on them appeared to be a whole other chapter of the Margiela fall collection.

 

 

 

Maison Martin Margiela Catwalk Fashion Show Paris SS2013

Maison Martin Margiela opened with a series of ladylike looks that included skirts with a surprising new length, just around the lower calf. Very chic indeed, although we’re curious how they would portray on an average woman. They were followed by high waisted pants mixed with long, strapless A-line tops. Together with perfectly tailored short sleeved jackets those pants created an elegant modern suit (yet becoming less elegant as Ruby Aldridge wore hers twisted and tied around her upper body).
Two back revealing jumpsuits were added and the focus on sexy stayed at the back for a few more looks. Like a green leather high slit skirt and top or a strapless burgundy dress creation.
The finale of enormous floor length dresses included a jersey T-dress, which could easily have fitted three models in it. But that XXL feeling is what gave the collection it’s twisted elegance. Add a few pairs of those signature gloves and a selection of pretty chic nose rings and you get an idea why Margiela is so unlike any other brand and keeps on doing so well.

Maison Martin Margiela Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2010

That was a good old Margiela-show: held in an empty industrial complex, seated in second hand chairs, drinking cheap wine and watching a collection with all the elements Margiela is known for. Mixing expectations, menswear and womenswear, exaggeration and extreme tailoring.

The pressrelease called it A new definition of the men’s wardrobe’ and ‘Menswear morphs into womenswear’. The result was a pretty sophisticated collection, with precise cut and impeccable finishing.

Sleeves of perfect cut jackets were blown up, waistlines of skirts and pants were floating as if the model had no waist and hips. Instead it gave her the straight silhouette of a man. Silk chiffon layers suggested lightness and distinction, especially when worn with rough knitted wool cardigans or big furry jackets and hats.

Typical men’s artefacts were blown up to become women’s jewellery: cufflinks turned into bracelets and rings, watchbands became maxi-belts, keyrings changed into necklaces. And the famous white Margiela box morphed into a new clutch-box.

It was good to see the team behind the Maison is back on the track after the designer Martin Margiela left. Although the concept of the show looked familiar. Let’s hope they will get ahead of us soon.

Maison Martin Margiela Catwalk Fashion Show FW09

Maison Martin Margiela Catwalk Fashion Show SS09