Lanvin Catwalk Fashion Show Menswear Paris FW2017

The fall collection of Lanvin was themed “Nothing” and had no logos, art, collaboration, decoration, or vintage references (there were even scarfs with the word “Nothing” on them). Instead, Lucas Ossendrijver focused on shape, construction and cut and enhanced everyday pieces such as the checked shirt, parka and chino.

Elevation came through some sartorial tricks: The double lapels of gray plaid or check coats melted away midway down the torso, while knife folds were pressed onto the fronts and back of jackets and into the sides of the sleeves. Armholes were high and shoulders were sharp and built out, while plaid shirts fluttered from beneath jackets, toning down all the fierce tailoring.

Outerwear had an artistic bent, as in a big black cape that looked as if it had been molded from paper mache while a black leather jacket that was inset, Matisse-like, with triangular bits of blue. The plaid on a duffle coat went every which way, as if the pattern had been shattered — and later reassembled. Knits were interesting, too, with many of them truncated at the waist to reveal more plaid shirts. Trousers veered between the slim and the oversized, with chinos pre-wrinkled with big cuffs.
Sometimes the classics are fine just as they are.

Lanvin Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Menswear SS2017

Please enjoy the pictures for now, our review will follow shortly.

Lanvin Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Womenswear FW2016

Alber Elbaz’ absence could be felt throughout the entire Lanvin show. Like you’d expect when a creative leaves after such a long period of being head designer, Lanvin’s fall/winter collection lacked of a strong vision, some soul, as you will. Femininity (lace, ruffles, shiny satin, bustiers) and masculinity (tweed, checks, tuxedos) came together in a mix of eighties inspired outfits. Touches of velvet and fur added to the richness of the collection. As chunky chokers and mesmerizing metallic earrings (forget that accessorizing rule about never wearing a necklace and earrings at the same time) delivered the strongest statement. The color palette went from pastel like (light peach, lavender and icy blue) to deeper shades (burgundy and deep blue). It made f/w2016 not the most cohesive collection. There was a definite new romantics vibe going on, yet we certainly missed some of Alber’s recognizable touches. Understandably so though, let’s give the new design team some more time.

Lanvin Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Womenswear SS2016

Alber Elbaz is always the one to look back and compare. We used to be designers. Now, we’re image-makers”, he said pre-show. He had been struggling to work through the puzzles confronting designers in a digital age. What is relevant today? Is it need or provocation? What is the role of fashion as entertainment? And, most relevant to his show: Can fashion and theater coexist? In turned out they can. At least for today, cause Elbaz staged his SS2016 show as a theater, placing the Lanvin name up in glittering lights at one end of the runway. His theater line up was as diverse as could be. All looks presumable festive, yet ranging from masculine tot seductive (although the nude corsetry had us fooled once or twice), from glittering to bold printed, from floor sweeping to cocktail. Not necessarily in that order. There was lace, there was tule, the was satin and jacquard. Not to mention we could double check on some SS2016 trends like the loose straps, the slip dresses, more is more. Now the dress code might have been festive, not flawless. Sharp cuts and tailored fits had Lanvins signature deconstructred details, undone seams, threads, frayed ends (a faux effect; real raw edges don’t hold up to wear, he cautioned) and frills all over them. Elbaz can wonder and complain question all he wants. But it seems his clothes don’t’always need a up to date theme to deliver a message. The feel good, dressed up, seventies mood was written all over them.

Lanvin Catwalk fashion Show Paris Womenswear SS2014

For spring Alber Elbaz offered a beautiful Lanvin-collection full of shine, gloss viagra online and glimmer but also with a dark and offensive side. It was inspired in part by a photograph of the brocade-clad women, bride included, at an orthodox Jewish wedding in Jerusalem, their grim visages suggestive of unspoken woes, “everything shining,” the designer said during a preview, “but their eyes.”

He thought, too, about the notion of the clothes as mirrors, to reflect the audience. He also thought to bring back regular clothes, sportswear and celebrate the individual.

Elbaz offered chic clothes for every woman: refined, sexy, elegant, butch, relaxed. Sportswear looks were casual, androgynous tailoring paid respect to Yves Saint Laurent, and an elastic-waist jumpsuit both celebrated and mocked its utilitarian roots.

Uniting this diversity was the endless gloss in 60 different fabrics — multiple textures of lamés, tweeds, laces, brocades and on in a beautiful spectrum from earthy golds to the most vibrant jewel tones.

Lanvin Catwalk Fashion Show Womenswear Paris FW2013

After a surprise treat of popcorn and a mini bottle of champagne it was showtime for Lanvin. Showing off Alber Elbaz’ many variations to the Little Black Dress the models were fully accessorized. They sported large chain necklaces with the words happy, help and cool as bees and flowers were stitched onto the clothes. Though most pieces were classic ones – the day suit, the fifties cocktail dress, the godet skirt and the corsetlike top – the collection had a young feeling to it. Elbaz may have doubted his position in the current fashion world (with bloggers and editors being all about getting their streetstyle picture taken) it seemed the designer found back the fun in fashion.

Lanvin Menswear Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2013

Alber Elbaz and Lucas Ossendrijver looked for contrast in their latest fall winter collections. Their guys wore ultra thin ties tucked in their pants as well as oversize woolen coats. Their turtlenecks in many shades, shiny shirts and footwear were just as strong statement pieces. A few quilted leather pieces were quite the opposite of the pair of sheer colored blouses towards the end of the collection. And an oversize T-shirt and a pair of slim pants formed an odd, yet good looking combination. Shades of red and blue were strangely mixed in with the typical winter color palette of blacks, whites and greys. The designer duo tried lots of new things. Some more powerful than others, but lots to think about nevertheless.

Lanvin Catwalk Fashion Show Paris SS2013

Having celebrated his tenth anniversary last season it was time for a new start for Alber Elbaz. He came up with a collection that was about purity and precision, yet not about control and minimalism, so he stated.

Elbaz worked on “deconstructed classicism.” He used smoking references and mixed them up with Japanese influences like kimono details and obi belts. He added a sexy dose of asymmetry, which was about the sexiest on a black bathing suit, matched with a pair of pants.

Constructed futuristic party looks full of metallic details followed. Though super modern, all the black & white made the designs appear classic. Next to his signature draping Elbaz used quite a bit of folding and of course his popular one shoulder dresses made their appearance.

A finale of several duo colored satin dresses was a cheerful closing to an all black and white show, that perhaps breathe classicism yet definitely was the beginning of something new.

Lanvin Menswear Catwalk Fashion Show Paris SS2013

The menswear-collection of Lanvin had a post-punk vibe. Black leather was one of the key ingredients, even used for shirts and ties under suits. Flowing high-waist pants worn with oversized white shirts with rolled sleeves reminded of Fred Astaire.  There were boxy T-shirts, classic jackets with billowing backs, a ska-style black shirt with a neon front, and glam suits in glimmering silver.
Silky, ultra-light windbreakers in python and sheer nylon were worn like shirts, tucked into slim, shiny pants or over tailored shorts. Spring’s top trends for men — lightness, transparency, silky fabrics and upscale technical sportswear — were there.

Lanvin Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2012

Alber Elbaz not only celebrated 10 years at Lanvin with a great collection and party, he also performed at the end of the show singing ‘Que Sera Sera’. It was his party, so he could do whatever he wanted.  The collection seemed a Best of-collection, but then modernized and updated. It showed all the inventive and creative skills of this great designer: his use of colors, the cut of the silhouettes, the mix of fabrics, the shapes, the urban femininity .

The show opened with hourglass mini-dresses in bright colors and sweet, round shapes, then black leather followed and black dresses and coats. The ruffles balanced it out and made sure the clothes didn’t look to aggressive or harsh. After the show Alber Elbaz told reporters that this collection was ‘all about freedom’.

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