Junya Watanabe Catwalk Fashion Show Paris ss2012

Leather bolero’s with ruffled sleeves probably are the most outspoken designs we’ve seen in Paris so far. Watanabe made them his subversive statement pieces in blue, red and black. He showed them with summer dresses and scary hat pieces made out of feathers.

Those traditionally embroidered summer dresses, which had a vintage feeling to them, were the key items of the collection. They came by, combined with a sheer bomber jacket, a black parka, a tulle skirt, half a trench coat and a trench cape. Items which gave the collection Watanabe’s personal touch.

Not a fan of those half trench coats? If you’d skip the bizarre styling, a collection full of pretty, original and wearable dresses would maintain. So whether you’re an edgy kinda girl or you just wanna play it safe, for summer 2012 you can go both ways with Watanabe.

 

Junya Watanabe Catwalk Fashion Show Paris SS2012

Junya Watanabe presented a very simple collection focused at dungarees. They came in all kinds of fabrics and prints, from tough denim tot cotton checks or tartan fabrics. And they were often worn with rugged boots or rubber boots. The result was a country-inspired collection, which also explained the setting in a garden in Paris.

It was another, different way of exploring workwear, a theme Watanabe likes to work at and which still gives him new inspiration after all that time. This time the looks echoed both the American and European outdoors, but it were the tailored jackets and shirts that gave it a certain edge.

Junya Watanabe Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2011

Junya Watanabe presented an elegant, sober and tough-chic collection focused at silhouette, leathers and fabric. At a haunting soundtrack and accompanying reading of Arthur Rimbaud’s ‘Ophelia’ this collection became more than a biker-tour.

The leather proofed to be the perfect material for an exercise in construction and couture shapes, some sets reminded of .Dior New Look 1947 or boxy Balenciaga-esque styles. It made an mix of  soft-meets-hard. From the front, many of the looks came completely structured and molded, while from behind, they were cut loose.
After the rigid black leather, paired with  stiff pleated schoolgirl-skirts, Watanabe introduced knits and easy LBD’s  in generous and sometimes slouchy silhouettes. Even the leathers were treated as fabric in wrap dresses.

Junya Watanabe Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2011

For next fall Junya Watanabe showed us a different take on the Fair Isle knits, which were a big hit this winter. Instead of showing the print on cardigans and sweaters Watanabe used it on suit jackets and coats in the most colorful examples. They looked comfy and warm and formed a good combination with the ankle hem of the (pretty basic-looking) pants. As they ambled around some park benches, placed in the middle of the stage, Watanabe’s mustached models really worked the new look.

The color palette ranging from bright red and blue to mustard yellow and dark green gave the collection a cheerful twist and showed the versatility of the collection too. ‘Cause whether it’s a 18-year old student or a 45-year old family man, many fellows will be able to work some of the fairy isle items into their wardrobes.

Junya Watanabe Catwalk Fashion Show SS2011

With coffee and croissants being served the Junya Watanabe fashion show was a good start of a busy fashion day in Paris. His new collection was pleasant to watch as well, although it was much of the same thing.

Black/Navy and white stripes were used throughout the whole collection. The stripes were combined with prints of lifebuoys, anchors and sailing boats. Plus the girls wore straw hats. But to conclude that Watanabe was inspired by a nautical theme, would be wrong. He stresses there were NO nautical references in the show. Instead he claimed Tokyo Dolls were his inspiration. The models in fact promoted the style of Harajuku teenagers. Alright Watanabe, if you say so.

The clothes looked easy-going (some outfits appeared even more comfortable than pajama’s) and playful. Loose-fitting striped pants and dresses as well as many trench coat variations.

Who walked in today’s show we’ll never know, cause Watanabe covered all the faces of the girls with a white fabric and gave them bright colored wigs. Next time robots instead of models mister Watanabe?

Junya Watanabe Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2010

While military and outdoor sports were the two themes of Junya Watanabe’s show, army green shades were visible throughout the whole collection.

Tall girls with eye-catching, architectural, blond wigs and somewhat pale, camouflage covered faces strolled down the runway. Their wigs were so big that when two girls passed one another the wigs’ ends would touch each other.

The models wore their waisted coats and jackets in army green or with a camouflage print. They looked tough and feminine at the same time. Especially since their coats were combined with skirts and leggings. Besides, those coats were double breasted (masculine) at the front and pleated (feminine) at the back. And their heavy fabrics (masculine) were mixed with the satin of the skirts (feminine). The models wore black leather shoes and caps or (fake-fur) hoods on their heads.

For a change the models were dressed right for the season: fall/winter. No airy dresses or revealing tops at Watanabe. From under their thick jackets his models only showed as much as their uncovered hands, faces and ankles.

Paris Catwalk Fashion fw2010: Junya Watanabe

Junya Watanabe reinterpreted the Jazz Age and made it to a fine collection. He gave the tailoring a twist— double-breasted suits illuminated with red stitching — and then meld formal and casual, which has become the season’s major trend. Watanabe made that mix more than putting a nylon parka over a suit or teaming a tailored jacket with jeans. He showed inserts of leather in suits and made the sportswear as powerful as the more formal pieces. The designer also put in another strong story: the revival of the camel coat.

Junya Watanabe Catwalk Fashion Show ss2010

A model in a plain-looking grey suit opened Junya Watanabe’s ss2010 show. A few more suits followed, all in black, white or grey. Strangely, the first designs looked as if they fitted too tight, judging from the folding around the buttons and breast. As in all of Watanabe’s shows the models’ heads were abundantly decorated. The girls wore high turbans in all kind of shapes and sizes. Also, every outfit was completed with some elegant masculine black and white shoes. Some long blouses (pleated at the chest) came up after the suits. They were followed by black and white tops and dresses. These came in many different prints (a lot of checks and some pied-de-poule) combined with black leggings. Most of the tops were loose-fitting, innovatively shaped and strikingly pleated. They were a good reflection of Watanabe’s designing style. (Tess van Daelen)

Junya Watanabe Catwalk Fashion Show ss2010

Levi’s and Mackintosh were supporting Watanabe, who sent out one of his nostalgic collections full of odd and modern mixes of colors, prints and fabrics. This time he referred to it as ‘snobbish’ , but we saw a rather elegant gentleman in a loose silhouet, techno-fabrics and some nice colors. There were pinstriped nylon parka’s,  bermudas, waistcoats with their backs cut out, shirts with a collage stripes and checks.

Junya Watanabe Man Catwalk Fashion Show Menswear FW09

« Previous Page — Next Page »