Junya Watanabe Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Womenswear FW2017

Junya Watanabe likes the ounk-era and this time het drew inspiration from the source: London. His punks were dressed in electric yellow and red plaids that were patchworked with black leather, sequins, traditional tailoring fabrics, a host of floral and jacquard upholstery plus leopard prints done the classic way. Everything was collaged: amorphorous capes and dresses crafted from circles and pointy triangles, some fused with motor jackets, many worn over pleated kilts and layered with fishnet sleeves and tights.

Junya Watanabe Catwalk Fashion Show Womenswear SS2016

From what planet did these models came from? Or is this future Africa? We weren’t quite sure. The collection, which was represented at the Paris museum of the history of immigration, showed us oversized neckbands, wild animal (lace)prints on dresses and a whole range of beautiful bold colours: bright yellow, royal blue, olive green, orange, white. It definitely felt fresh en summery. The animal printed capes hanging over their shoulders and the voluminous draping and folding around the body, we would almost forget we were still in Paris. Although the cornerstone of the collection was the shirtdress, seen in almost every look, we were slightly distracted and still in awe of the spacious head creations (could this be the avant-garde sister of Marge Simpson?) and futuristic tribal jewellery. The big rubber belts and hoops around the models necks, XXL bracelets anchored the sleeves of some shirtdresses or a harness around the chest made out of black patent leather. Although it wasn’t quite clear what the exact message of this collection was, it was quite refreshing to be looking so much forward in time, instead of looking on history repeating itself over and over again. To quote Anna Wintour in The September Issue: “Fashion isn’t about looking back. It’s always about looking forward.”

Junya Watanabe Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2015

The story Junya Watanabe was trying to tell was that of algorithmic folds. The result: incredible shapes crafted out of the basic and commonplace, such as starched white shirts, cropped tailored black pants, capes, moto jackets and T-shirt dresses. Beginning with a plain white starched shirt and full, shiny black skirt in rounded pleats, Watanabe quickly built up the silhouettes into sculptures topped with exaggerated symmetrical headgear that made the models look vaguely like chess pieces. Skirts and capes came in precise honeycomb accordion folds that encased the body, some stiff, some structured but with a springy, elastic movement. A loose, lean jumpsuit had a spiky shrug around the shoulders.
Most of the clothes would satisfy conceptual fashion geeks and retailers alike. But some of it was just for fun: The round, red honeycomb neckline of a hot-pink dress looked like a modern geometric ruff; an even bigger version of it on a purple look had the shape of a grand, perfectly pruned topiary.

Junya Watanabe Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Womenswear SS2015

Junya Watanabe never designed for the mainstream client, but his collection for spring was more extravagant than we’ve seen from him in a while. Cartoonesque figures strutted his runway, sporting bright colored, latex disc shaped clothing, shoes helmets and bright make-up to match. The silhouette, if there was any, was about bare legs and architectonic shapes. Round discs at the shoulders, 3D, origami-like effects on the tops, asymmetric, zipped skirts at the bottoms. Breton stripes and biker jacket influences referred to the designer’s signatures. Other than that it was hard to recognize real wearable pieces. Most looks were real show numbers, belonging in a fashion expo or on stage. Both Gaga and Minaj would be pleased to pull some performance pieces from this collection.

Junya Watanabe Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Womenswear, FW2014

We started our morning with an all black Watanabe collection (including the strangely cut black wigs the models wore). Dark it was, dull not at all. With every single look the designer managed to portray his strong craftsmanship. He introduced round (and rectangular towards the end) shaped patchwork details and gave his creations a 3D effect by layering multiple textures on top of each other and bundling woolen, leather and fur pieces of fabric. Sequined pieces were in the patchwork mix too, followed by architectural Michelin-like coats, one could live in. Long dresses with straps of ribbon attached vertically onto sheer fabric formed the finale of what appeared to be clothes for a night out. Some looks might come across a little too bizarre for hitting your average night club, although seen independently, without the extreme show styling, some of the tops or bottoms could definitely work in any metropolitan city.

Junya Watanabe Menswear Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2013

It was patchwork-mania at Junya Watanabe. Loose fitting pants and wool jackets were given hobo treatment. As if Watanabe decided to hide up holes in his garments or decided to work with leftover fabrics from earlier collections. Unshaved long haired models fit the collection, wearing bowler hats on the go. Their looks had a certain British twist, that came in the form of grey pinstripe (a huge menswear trend) and tartan checked fabrics. A black and grey coat mixed with a striped pair of legging looked more scruffier due to two being combined. Jackets and body warmers worn on top of coats seemed too small, because the styling. Yet a toggle coat, a trench coat and a jacket with red shaded tartan pockets did look great. Perhaps, if we could see some of the items styled differently we would appreciate them even more.

Junya Watanabe Catwalk Fashion Show Paris SS2013

On the same day as Viktor & Rolf showed their mirrored collection Junya Watanabe sent his models out on the runway with mirrored headgear. Yet the reflecting pieces were the only thing the two brands had in common. Cause could you ever really compare a label to Watanabe? The brand is so outspoken and unique it would be hard to copy that spirit.

Watanabe’s model looked like futuristic sportive sixties girls. Walking to the energetic club beats of the show’s soundtrack they sported leggings, mini dresses, cycling pants and thin water resistant jackets. Poppy colors gave the looks even more power, although a series of black designs at the end appeared just as strong.

Puma shoes with bright details completed Watanabe’s Space Age theme. At 09.30 a.m. the overwhelming show really kicked in. Full of energy we sprinted to our next show location. Unfortunately without the mirrored helmets.

 

 

Junya Watanabe Menswear Catwalk Fashion Show Paris SS2013

The Beatles were the soundtrack for a sweet, urban/preppy collection from Junya Watanabe.  He said he moved away from structure although his men looked rather sharp-dressed. There was a easy feel to the collection with the fresh-faced models in suits and separates in cornflower blue, khaki and pale gray. Pants were cropped above the ankle or cut into trim Bermudas. Individual touches included elbow patches and pocket trims in shirt fabrics.

Junya Watanabe Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2012

Junya Watanabe was in the mood for sartorial elegance in a mannish way, which resulted in a collection with strong tailoring and couturelike precision. Lots of  formfitting coat in a men’s check, cinched dresses in heavier fabrics, or a checked coat with a dress that combined a gray bodice in a heavy cloth with a voluminous  orange skirt in velvet.
Watanabe’s outerwear had trenchcoats with volume, as well as a trench-cape and a few blazer coats, which looked as though he stitched together a fitted jacket and a skirt in the same fabric.

Junya Watanabe Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2012

Junya Watanabe is fascinated by all American work wear, and it’s not different with his new fw2012 collection. This time he focused  farmers, with the loose fitting jeans, the plaid shirts and leather suspenders. There were also (denim) suits with leather elbow patches and patches of leather and pleads.

Not really the most exciting collection of this week, but surely attractive to some men

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