John Galliano Catwalk Fashion Show Paris SS2013

The theatrical romance of the labels´founders was absent, yet the enormous hats of layered tulle reminded us we were indeed attending a Galliano show. Bill Gaytten sobered things up for the brand as he sent crispy clean oversize garments out on the runway. Endless fabrics were tossed, turned and folded (again the origami references) into elegant evening gowns in white, salmon, black and blue. Next to the mono colored pieces he introduced prints (and not the most subtle ones). City-inspired prints of hundreds of cars in standstill traffic slightly disturbed the ladylike feeling of the collection. Yet they did make the designs appear slightly more youthful and modern. Fascinated by the structured stiffness of Gayttens creations we open mouthedly watched the (mostly) A-line shaped creations come and go. How we would love to strut around in one of those blue maxi pants for one day.

John Galliano Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2012

Inspired by drawings of Aubrey Beardsley (an influential illustrator and writer in the late 19th century) Bill Gaytten came up with luxurious ensembles for English women. His models were all dressed up in asymmetrical capes and dresses with enormous collars, large gloves and feather fascinators as their accessories. Especially the delicate designs in pleated satin and embroidered sheer fabrics appeared graceful. Done in shades of olive green, cinnamon, light mint and ruby red they seemed perfect for winter. And even though you could see every bit of the models’ bodies through them it still made the girls look classy.

John Galliano Catwalk Fashion Show Paris ss2012

At Galliano it felt as if John never really left. The collection, designed by his successor Bill Gaytten, had the same kind of vibe Galliano shows used to have. Although the over the top styling, the layers of make-up and the theatrical hairdo’s were gone.

There still was a lot going on in the looks, but this time around the story was more clear than before. Printed blouses and dresses with corsages were seen throughout the whole collection. The models wore them with flared skirts, knee length shorts,  feminine jackets and boaters.

All looks had a very vintage feeling to them, but had enough of a modern twist to make women want to buy it. The collection might not be the most trend setting of this fashion season, but at least were glad the John Galliano line lives on.

 

John Galliano Catwalk Fashion Show Paris SS2012

What happens when you take the living soul out of a designer-collection is that the format becomes visible in every detail. And that’s what’s going on at the house of John Galliano right now.  It’s courageous of Bill Gayten to take the bow after the show, but it all looked  forced. Gone are the theatrics, but the artsy types in military jackets, David Hockney clones and rakish rockers stayed since the Swinging Sixties and Pop Art were the sources of inspiration.

All the ingredients of a Galliano-collection were there. The long jackets, funny accessories, slim suits in gray silk or crinkled white linen. The message was at the end of the show, when two mustachioed Galliano- doppelgangers took their turns. They surely do miss him.

John Galliano Presentation/Show Paris FW2011

It should have been a presentation of the John Galliano-collection, but instead it was a small show in a small setting. Even Sidney Toledano,  the chief executive of Dior, which also invests in the Galliano brand, was there. Maybe as a signal of support for the staff members of Galliano’s atelier.It must have been strange for everybody who was there today, being there after such a difficult week following the scandal John Galliano got himself into.

The collection that was showed was – according to Cathy Horyn of the New York Times ‘fairly straightforward and typically Galliano, a mix of romantic dresses, a loosely draped mint kimono with black lace appliqué, a black vinyl trench and a silk halter dress printed with what appeared to be curlicues of cigarette smoke’.

Christian Dior Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2011

It was not the strongest collection of Galliano for the house of Christian Dior, but is was for sure a memorable one. Not only because of the scandal the designer caused last week, but also because of the fact Dior fired the designer, the speech that Sidney Toledano – chief executive of Dior – held before the show this afternoon  and the atelier that received a standing ovation at the end of the show. In his speech Mr  Toledano didn’t mention Galliano at all, but he decried racism while reminding guests of the long heritage and bright future of Dior (see  parts of the speech below)

Outside the showvenue – the Rodin Museum – the scene was a mob. Police closed the street to accomodate the hundreds of people invited to the show waiting to get in.

The collection – that was finished by the couture house’s staff – was ultra-feminine. It reflected flirty styles from the early 20th century – and seemed primed for flappers, knickered ruffians, and ladies in their boudoirs. Boots were over-the-knee and on platforms, and the bags were big and roomy – looks that haven’t been seen on other runways this season, where shoes and bags have tended to be more prim and structured.

Parts from the speech Mr Toledano gave before the start of the show (quoted from New York Times):

“Since its founding by Monsieur Dior, the House of Christian Dior has lived an extraordinary and wonderful story and has had the honor of embodying France’s image, and its values, all around the world. What has happened over the last week has been a terrible and wrenching ordeal to us all. It has been deeply painful to see the Dior name associated with the disgraceful statements attributed to its designer, however brilliant he may be. Such statements are intolerable because of our collective duty to never forget the Holocaust and its victims, and because of the respect for human dignity that is owed to each person and to all peoples. These statements have deeply shocked and saddened all at Dior who give body and soul to their work, and it is particularly painful that they came from someone so admired for his remarkable creative talent.”

…

“Christian Dior’s values were those of excellence in all that he undertook, of elegance and craftsmanship reflecting his unique talent.”

…

“The heart of the House of Dior, which beats unseen, is made up of its teams and studios, of its seamstresses and craftsman, who work hard day after day, never counting the hours, and carrying on the values and the vision of Monsieur Dior.”

John Galliano Fired!

Christian Dior has fired John Galliano as it’s creative director.

“I unequivocally condemn the statements made by John Galliano, which are in total contradiction to the longstanding core values of Christian Dior,” Sidney Toledano, Dior’s president and chief executive officer, said in a statement today.

Dior stated that the “odious behaviour” exhibited by Galliano in the video released yesterday was the last straw resulting in his dismissal.

Source: Vogue

John Galliano Catwalk Fashion Show FW2011

With his fallcollection 2011 John Galliano tried to tell the story of balletdancer Rudolph Nurejev: his struggles, triumphs and artistry. Of course he studied the life of the great dancer thoroughly and tried to translate every part of it even his idea of hope, discipline , dreams and the way he fled Russia. The show started with a pack of Russian emigres amidst a flurry of snowflakes dressed in heavy layers of second hand overcoats and with all their belongings packed at their back. Further on the show recounted Nurejev’s jet setting years in the Sixties, the torturing rehearsals in studios and finally beautiful, glamorous stage-costumes with Tatar-elements.

Galliano didn’t forget the fashiontrends though, he did send out beautiful militairy coats, chunky cardigans, cropped blazers and some fur. Colors were dark and rich, fabrics soft, wahed and luxurious.

John Galliano Catwalk Fashion Show Paris SS2011

Attending the John Galliano show this Sunday felt like going to a theater. Once again the designer used every opportunity to wow us. First of all a beautifully led golden backdrop, but also hats, wigs, eccentric make-up and large painting frames. Not to mention the models who were each playing their own individual character during the show. There’s was so much going on, we’d almost forget we were supposed to look at the designs.

And they deserved some attention too. John Galliano combined thick leather coats with delicate sheer nude skirts and dresses. In fact there were a lot of jackets, most of them worn with a clashing scarf tied around it.

Colorful designs had butterflies and flower prints on them. A model carrying a wooden umbrella seemed to stress the eastern twist of some of these looks.

The color palette changed from nudes to pink, blue, turquoise and red. The finale was a parade of floor-sweeping ivory gowns. Every single one looked perfectly handcrafted and had some very nice silver embroideries on it.

It was a spectacular show with a very pleasant vibe. Yet maybe the fashion part got a little overshadowed by the whole theater Galliano had set up. Nevertheless, we enjoyed it.

John Galliano Catwalk Fashion Show SS2011

The set at John Galliano’s menswear-show looked like Charlie Chaplin’s movie Modern Times, and hey – who opened the show? The legendary filmmaker/actor himself – well, a look-a-like. And later on he was followed by Buster Keaton.

Galliano wanted to make a statement about new proportions in menswear and the shrunken jacket and baggy pants – which were the signature look of Chaplin – were a good start. As was the three-piece suit and all Buster Keaton used to wear. These two looks dominated the show, dropped crotch pants, jackets fitted to the body, a little dandyism in lurex trench-coats and pale suits. The movie Death in Venice inspired Galliano and his team for the bathing-suits and bathrobes.

Funny that after so many decades a frumpy suit of two almost forgotten actors are feeling new after the slick, made to measure fashion of the past years. That’s the power of fashion. You’ll get fed up with perfect clothes and suddely you realize you are longing for imperfection and a different style. Et voila, your prayers are heard.

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