Jil Sander Fashion Show Milan Womenswear SS2016

For Jil Sander SS2016 Rodolfo Paglialunga came up with the label’s most sexy collection so far. In line with what seems to be the SS trend Jil Sander’s signature clean, sharp and sober gave way for more soft tailored and gentle creations. Jackets got sliced open at the shoulders and cut-outs were added at the waists and hems. Off shoulder and low necklines added to the seductiveness as fully buttoned blouses and 7/8 trousers were followed up by layered looks with a focus on midi lengths. Rather high straw hats, loose straps, rubber black belts and snake skin bags gave the collection it’s playful touch. A collection that balanced on two thoughts; the Jil Sander like we know it and the new direction Paglialunga is taking it. Stiff colored leather and shiny silk. Two rather conflicting styles and therefore not the strongest statement Paglialunga could have made. Still his special sleeved suits left a big impression and will be the chicest thing come spring.

Jil Sander Menswear Catwalk Fashion Show Milan SS2016

In a season marked by soft shapes and rivers of fluid fabric, Designer Rodolfo Paglialunga presented a Jil Sander-collection with full of geometric shapes and far from soft & fluid silhouettes. Trousers stretched only to mid-calf, while suits came with knee-skimming shorts, and were made from lightweight leather, shiny, coated canvas, or crinkly parachute nylon.

The muted palette featured dove-gray, pale olive and black, while adornment came as a utility strap running down the side of a sleeve, and rectangular, colored patches in leather or dark shades of blue or brown. Bright abstract Japanese-style flower patches on denim jackets and snappy short-sleeved shirts added much-needed perk to the collection.

Jil Sander Catwalk Fashion Show Milan FW2015

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Jil Sander Catwalk Fashion Show Milan Womenswear SS2014

Jil Sander started her show with mannish tailoring — a cropped, black jacket above belted white pants. In short order came elegant dresses, some demuring, some racy. There were coats and jackets in pale pink and yellow, some man-tailored in front with volume in back. A pair of graphic sweaters over long skirts viagra best price looked artful and subtle, while a group printed with Alighiero Boetti reproductions needed a closer look.

 

Jil Sander Catwalk Fashion Show Milan Menswear SS2014

Jimmy Sommerville and Marianne Faithful were on the soundtrack of Jil Sanders menswear ss14 collection. Centre of this collection were crisp jackets and trim coats in cream, neon, black and white, the tailoring was boxy and lean. The neon popped up on cuffs and hems of loose white blousons and also edgings the inside-out seams of black blazers and trousers.

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A futuristic edge gave the sculpted and glossy leathers and paper-like coats. A sporty vibe came from the oversized T-shirts and Bermuda-shorts.

Jil Sander Catwalk Fashion Show Milan Womenswear FW2013

Like you’d expect today’s Jil Sander show was a celebration of minimalism today. Yet besides serene, monotone dresses, plain tops and clean cut coats there was room for slight variations too. Like graphic lines on a series of turtle necks, winter checks on thick woolen dresses and coats, extra lines and pleats (oh, we even spotted some pockets). The show ended with simple yet perfect gold shaded bars on a few black looks. They put the “High-carat femininity” into today’s show notes as the overall collection indeed breathed “graceful” and “incorruptible”.

Jil Sander Menswear Catwalk Fashion Show Milan FW2013

For her second menswear show (and the start of Milan Fashion Week) since her return Jil Sander did what she does best. She sent out perfectly tailored clean looks, often done in only one shade. Like the completely red or pinstriped suits even worn with matching shirts underneath.

Models looked warm and cosy in check printed coats, sports jackets, and big woolen sweaters with large collars. The six sleeveless chic looks seemed less appropriate for winter, yet did stress Sander’s vision.

Violet, burgundy and army green spiced up the grey color palette. Bands placed on chunky sweaters made up for a fun detail and plain duo colored tops might just be it for upcoming winter.

 

Jil Sander Catwalk Fashion Show Milan SS2013

Pure, minimal, reduced. Jil Sanders first women’s collection under her own name since 8 years was exactly what she is know for. The designs were both pure and true to her way of looking at clothes, which is to make an intelligent, respectful appeal to women of all ages. The show opened with a sleeveless coat-dress that, over a white blouse, looked like a schoolgirl jumper. It was followed by another coat-dress whose sleeves fell to just below the elbow. Dresses were her focus. Working in structured fabrics in wine and navy, Sander cut almost everything with room, usin constructions and techniques to sculpt, round and extend shoulders, sleeves and hips. Movement underscored the collection, like the jacket whose subtly exaggerated back swung elegantly; or the oversized culottes that swished like a silk skirt; or the boots with zips that spiraled around the calf.

Jil Sander Menswear Catwalk Fashion Show Milan ss2013

The most anticipated show this menswear-season: the come-back show of designer Jil Sander for her own label. Looking at the collection it seemed Sander said goodbye to the experimental designs of Raf Simons and went back to purism. The collection was crisp, graphic and youthful. Jil Sander opened her show with a sleeveless navy coat over a white, short-sleeved nerd shirt and shorts, setting her main agenda: playing on proportion, and a mix of formal and sporty.
Sander gave her pristine silhouettes a generous mix of classic and vivid colors, from long-line tan suits spliced with white panels, to boxy garage jackets in an Yves Klein blue. There were prints, too: polka dots and Mondrian-esque stripes.

Jil Sander Catwalk Fashion Show Milan FW2012

With hist last collection for Jil Sander, Belgium designer Raf Simons tried to tell a poetic story of the hours in a couple’s domestic life, from a woman’s morning lingerie to wool coats and black cocktail dresses. This show contained all the designs Simons surprised us with over the past few years, a fully modern perspective on construction and deconstruction, on feminine colors, on magical ideas. And we are going to miss him for that.

Simons made his final Sander collection one of positive beauty, poetic, gentle and refined. He opened with double-faced clutch coats in  pale pink and dove gray, tobacco and bright pink – with a hint to late-Fifties couture. He then went to dresses with an innovative lingerie reference. He even used PVC looked for folded dresses and skirts and they looked lovely rather than aggressive.

Jil Sander might return to teh house she left years ago, but it’s going to be a totally different ball game for her. Raf Simons proved what he is capable of and he will just improve every season. It won’t be easy for Jil Sander to equalize what he left behind.

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