Highlights Milan Fashion Week SS2011

With the beginning of Milan Fashion Week the colorblocking started too. All big Italian fashion houses were in the mood for brightness. It started off with Gucci, then Prada, Missoni and Jil Sander followed.

It also became clear that the clothes were becoming more and more comfortable. The silhouettes were elongated and looser than before, the heels less high. That is, perfect clothes to lounge in next summer.

Oh, and one other trend: fringes and tassels as details on any possible item; dresses, bags, tops, hats, shoes, skirts and jackets. Major!

Gucci
The Gucci show was a great example of colorblocking to the max. The models looked glamorous from head to toe in their colorful designs, perfect leather pieces, shiny accents and numerous items with playful tassels. Like Marc Jacobs’s show in New York Gianni opted for a seventies vibe too. Yet the outfits of the sexy Gucci ladies were a bit more body-tight.

Jil Sander
Seemed to continue the colorblocking vibe the brand had launched during it’s menswear show in June. Simons used green, pink, yellow, violet and orange in one outfit and called it ‘a mille-feuille of color’. There were a lot of stripes too. The first few looks were made of large, floor-sweeping skirts and white tees. They made the models appear larger than life, but still looked elegant. We were impressed.

Bottega Venata
No colors at Bottega Veneta, but shades of black, white and grey. The silhouette was very loose letting the body shape almost completely disappear. Items like shirt dresses and suits made gave the collection a manly touch, without becoming less elegant. A great wearable collection from look 1 to look 41.

Roberto Cavalli
At Cavalli we celebrated forty years of an amazing, glamorous fashion house. Cavalli held a great show and a just as impressive after party. His spring/summer collection, which he presented in an area full of gigantic tropical leaves, was revealing and sexy. He came up with croc and python jackets and dresses with fringes all over the place. A perfect glamazone collection with all the right Cavalli ingredients.

Prada

Colorblocking, banana & monkey prints, stripes and Mexican hats, that is Prada SS2011 in a nutshell. Miuccia herself called the collection brave, bold and obvious. And only a designer like herself would be able to pull off some of these looks. The designs were often over the top, but there’s no doubt Prada will set some new trends for summer.The show immediately became everyone’s favorite and surely was one of the highlights of Milan Fashion Week.

Highlights London Fashion Week SS2011

Though for years London Fashion Week was left aside a bit by the media, with the return of Burberry to the British capital that is changing. More and more brands want to show their new collections during London Fashion Week. And why shouldn’t they? London has a lot to offer and has quite a lot talent. London fashion is very hip and funky and really stands out in its own way.

Some of our favorite shows we saw in London were Matthew Williamson (who will be launching a new line soon), Burberry and Christopher Kane. We loved the colors and the special prints. We were blown away by the setting of the Erdem show and of course we’re very proud of the Dutch sisters of label Spijkers en Spijkers which is a big success in London too.

Matthew Williamson
For spring Matthew Williamson designed for a girl marooned on a desert island. The girl’s wardrobe had lots of nature-inspired shades (and prints) in it like khaki, beige and sand. The clothes, safari blouses and cargo pants, seemed perfect for the jungle as well. Yet Williamson managed to keep his collection feminine and city chic by adding corset-bodies and sheer airy fabrics.

Christopher Kane
‘Neon gets me going’, he said backstage. And we sure could see that. The Christopher Kane show was full of fluor fashion. Fashion-forward bright shades of green, pink, orange an yellow were used for more classic outfits. Like a sophisticated jacket of floral-printed lace of an Argyll-printed vest with matching top and skirt. Together with the funky prints, he introduced during the second half of the show, it felt like a very fresh new collection.

Paul Smith
We loved the Paul Smith collection, because his girls looked very tough and edgy. And even though they were wearing very manly clothes (suit jackets, blouses and ties), they looked sexy as hell. Highlight of the show were the sheer shirt dresses, the floral prints and the skirts combined with sweaters. Great styling!

Burberry
Burberry of course kicked of London fashion week with a dazzling show. The brand showed tough leather jackets combined with bright colors and tight leather pants. We would love to have every single studded jacket. And despite the staggering models in the super-high heels the show was perfection.

Peter Pilotto
Since it has become their trademark for their new collection Peter Pilotto and Christopher de Vos of course used digital printing. Only this time they took it to another level designing silk-screen prints and making them look three-dimensional. It looked spectacular on the lady-like dresses they’d designed. The Pilotto woman seemed to have grown up; changing her cocktail party dresses for column gowns and mid-calf skirts. Yet she’s keeping her sexiness and still feels comfortable. How wonderful.

Highlights New York Fashion Week SS2011

The New York Fashion Week was a good start of a whole new fashion season. It was the first time the fashion week was held on it’s new location: Lincoln Centre, but the fashion crowd seemed to like it. For the ones who’ve missed it here we discuss the highlights of New York Fashion Week.

A week full of contradictions; from minimalistic to over-accessorized,  from collections full of neutral shades to big color parades and from the seventies to the future. Yet one thing the collections had in common was the fact that the clothes overall looked very wearable. So goodbye to the ultra-tight skirts and tops and hi to the loose, long dresses.

Marc Jacobs
One of the most memorable collections was that of Marc Jacobs. With his seventies inspired disco-chic clothes he set a new trend, which we all loved immediately. The colors (burgundy, amber, coral pink, Byzantine, bright maroon) looked lovely together and created exactly the right mood for the show. Marc paid attention to every little detail and the big flowers, the hats and the sunglasses felt like the perfect summer accessories. After the fifties-inspired collection he had just designed for Louis Vuitton this seventies collection is bound to become just as big of a hit.

Calvin Klein
The Calvin Klein show like last season was very minimalistic. Francisco Costa again opted for clean cuts and a minimal amount of colors. Though he didn’t surprise us with this collection, he stayed true to his winning formula. Besides there were at least seven Dutch models walking in the show, so we couldn’t possible be any more proud (some of the girls are already named as the New Faces of this season)

Rodarte
For next summer the sisters Mulleavy created a collection full of hand crafted creations inspired by their native Northern California and its redwood forests. There were leaves and tree-trunk prints in any possible shade of brown you could think of. Yet there were also blue and white checks and prints from porcelain antique vases. The collection Laura and Kate had designed, was different then we’d expected, yet we loved every piece of it.

Phillip Lim
Every fashion-city has its darlings. In New York Phillip Lim is one of them. The reason for that? He makes beautiful clothes, which woman can actually afford to buy. For spring/summer Lim showed a luxurious collection. He played around with a puzzle concept en used a lot of sheer fabrics. Together with a beautiful neutral color palette and some menswear tailoring that resulted in one of the best Lim collections we’ve seen so far.

Alexander Wang
As one of the first big brands to show during NYFW Alexander Wang kicked off a new fashion season. And he did so in a great way. His girls looked street-wise and tough in their white-shaded garments, influenced by painters’ overalls. We loved the way he used his parachute silk and the shades of mint and terracotta he added. We’re sure there will be more women wanting to wear these clothes, besides the models off duty Wang designs for.

Tommy Hilfiger
The Tommy Hilfiger collection was actually not very new or special. It was just a good combination of all the Hilfiger items we’ve seen before. The reason Hilfiger is one of our highlights however, has to do with the fact that the designer celebrated the 25th anniversary of his label. He held a big party at the Metropilan Opera and invited great American celebs like Lenny Kravitz, Jennifer Lopez, Sarah Jessica Parker. We say: on to the next 25 years!

The best of Paris Fashion Week FW2010

The Paris fashion week was the last fashion week of the season, but it was worth the wait. The brands in our top 4 (Celine, Dries van Noten, Lanvin and Louis Vuitton) all showed beautiful, wearable clothes in which women can feel confident and sexy.

Celine
The Celine fahion show was one to remember while it was a great follow-up for the amazing collection Phoebe Pilo showed for spring. Cause just like Pilo’s first collection for Celine this one was simplistic, yet never boring. Or as she described it herself: ‘Strong, Powerful, Reduced.’ The best fabrics were used and the clothes were made with Pilo’s signature clean and sophisticated cut. Shades of navy, black and white alternated each other. Leather details, like collars and pocket, and transparent fabrics gave the looks a bit of an edge. There’s no doubt this elegant and sexy collection will get it’s approval from Celine’s loyal customers. It had everything the women had been waiting for ever since Helmut Lang left the runway.

Dries van Noten
As one of the first designers to present his collection Dries van Noten managed to design exactly the kind of clothes women feel confident in. His designs were wearable, comfortable, feminine and refreshing. And the great thing about it; the models didn’t look as if they’d spent hours in front of the mirror. It seemed like they had just mixed and matched some of their own basics with some designer items. Therefore they looked streetwise and sophisticated at the same time. Two elements that really struck us were the colorful floral prints and the silver embroideries on the sleeves. Dries van Noten did a great job making fashion seem effortless, for once.

Lanvin
Dries van Noten wasn’t the only designer who proved he knew what women want. Alber Elbaz showed some great style as well. On the runway he built a stairway to heaven from which the models started their walk. They wore the cutest cocktail dresses and the most elegant evening gowns. Those dresses looked easy to wear, but were never simple. While most designs were very flattering, classy and still modern many women will feel comfortable wearing them. The collection felt urban, yet also had a light African tribal influence originating from Elbaz’ background (he was born in Morocco ). The tribal details were visible in the accessories, feathers and furry details. And we’re sure that between all those different items there was a little something for every woman.

Louis Vuitton
On the final day of the Paris fashion week Marc Jacobs once more amazed the world of fashion by presenting a 50’s/60’s inspired collection. He must have had the same thought as Miuccia Prada, only he took it a little further. His (full-figured) models (Laetitia Casta, Bar Refaeli, Catherine McNeil, Karolina Kurkova, Elle Macpherson) looked as feminine as ever with their wasp-waists, long circle skirts and full busts. Jacobs also re-introduced the famous Speedy bag. The show was inspired by the movie ‘And god created woman’ which made Brigit Bardot famous thus the models wore their hair in BB-inspired bouncy ponytails. The fashion spectacle was held around a fountain in the middle of a tented courtyard. It made up for a wonderful Parisian atmosphere, the perfect ending of a great fashion season.

The best of Milan Fashion Week FW2010

Many Italian brands proved they know exactly how fashion works during Milan Fashion Week. Dolce & Gabbana, Prada, Jil Sander and Marni all showed very strong collections meant to be worn by strong women.

Dolce & Gabbana
The Dolce & Gabbana show was one of the best shows we saw in Milan. With their 50th fashion show Domenico and Stefano went back to their roots. They showed everything Dolce & Gabbana stands for, which they described by the terms Sicilianita’, Sartorialita’ and Sensualita’. The show, which started off by a clip of the designer working in their atelier, was a true sensation. Domenico and Stefano presented perfect tailoring with a very feminine touch. Their polka dots, animal and floral prints combined perfectly with all the black. Like in the show for their summer collection of 2010 the designers at the end sent out 75 models on the runway. All of them were dressed in black jackets. What a lovely sight! The show was marvellous, but you’d have to be there to understand why it made certain people cry.

Jil Sander
Anther brand that stayed very true to itself was Jil Sander. Raf Simons took some inspiration from the Lara Croft movie Tomb Raider and said to have designed the collection for ‘women with a target’. The tight catsuits, the boots with Velcro-closures and the streamlined shorts suits represented the Tomb Raider influence. While another part of the collection, with colorful tweeds and checks, felt very classic. The whole collection gave us the Jil Sander feeling from the nineties and Raf Simons showed retro-minimalism like it’s supposed to.

Prada
Just when Jil Sander went back to the nineties, Miuccia Prada travelled back in time to the fifties. At her show we saw elegant looking women in sophisticated clothes. They didn’t show much skin, yet their busts were highly accentuated. Ruffles and pleats brought the focus of the designs to the models’ breasts and small belts focused on their waists. The skirts were longer than before at Prada and the models were fuller-figured. It all felt somewhat conservative, but maybe that was just what Miuccia was going for. And she wasn’t the only one. Marc Jacobs went for the fifties look in his Louis Vuitton collection as well. And since Prada and Louis Vuitton are two of the top fashion brands of the world, we might see a lot more of the fifties in future collections.

Marni
A great aspect of the Marni collection were the colors. The ochre, dusty pink, matt olive, ox blood red and the turquoise green looked suitable for fall and yet were bright enough to feel fresh. They were there on Marni’s bermuda’s, tops, skirts and on the arty T-shirts made by Gary Hume. Not only did we love the clothes with their structured silhouettes, the perforated shoes and major accessories were to die for as well. Overall Marni’s collection surprised us with it’s unexpected fits and color combinations. We can not wait to wear those ochre bermuda’s!

Overall Milan’s hightlights represent a sophisticated lady like look. Nothing too loud, sexy or over the top. Just wearable clothes in which women can feel feminine and comfortable.

The best of London Fashion Week FW2010

After a period in which British brands preferred showing abroad they’ve now come back to London. The city’s fashion week celebrated it’s 25^th anniversary last year and is again a popular fashion town. Some of the best British labels have returned to the London catwalks, including Burberry, Pringle, Matthew Williamson, Antonio Berardi, Jonathan Saunders and Clements Ribeiro. Luckily for London, cause Burberry and Williamson were surely two of our London Fashion Week highlights.

Christopher Kane
With the fall collection Christopher Kane presented he is bound to win another Collection of the Year award. The designer used black lace and leather embroidered (by hand!) with floral patterns. A crazy combination, at first sight, but after a few looks we started to like it. The skirts and dresses meant for young women were short like always, but never looked sleazy. Kane worked some Priscilla Presley looks into his collection as well. ‘From the time before Elvis got her hands on her’, he said. Even though Christopher Kane and his sister Tammy are only running the label for four years they’ve already achieved a lot. And we’re sure there’s much more to come. Now let’s just hope he won’t be taking too many extra design job like the ones for Versus and Topshop, cause he already has his hands full right now.

Burberry
Another successful British designer who is fully booked is Christopher Bailey, creative director for Burberry. Bailey oversees some 60 different men’s and women’s collections each year, including the Prorsum, Brit, London and Sport labels, plus children’s wear, denim, underwear, fragrances, home-wear and all the accessories. Plus he’s responsible for the design of the Burberry shops. But that doesn’t influence the great collections he delivers. His work even tends to get better. The womenswear collection for next fall was a highlight of the London Fashion Week. Not only was it the first show to be watched live in 3D, people could even buy the designs as they came down the runway by simply clicking the ‘Click to buy’ button. And there sure was a lot to love, the coats being the public’s favourite. They came by with military accents and in aviator style, shear ling lined with double collars. So the Burberry show was trendsetting in two ways: (1) The military coats will be a success next year (2) Other labels will soon broadcast their shows in 3D and will let their customers buy their clothes straight from the show as well. Just wait and see.

Matthew Williamson
A show we would have loved to see in 3D was that of Matthew Williamson. Although the man is known for designing bright young things for, well.., bright young things his fall collection seemed a little more grown up. Of course there were the multicolored mini-dresses but Williamson also experimented with a more mature look. We liked it. Romantic ruffles and drapery were seen on his sophisticated dresses. He used beautiful colors from icy grey and blue to warm shades of fuchsia, peach, orange and red. Colorful prints and sparkles gave the collection it’s Williamson-twist. We loved the designs, the colors and the more grown up look. The dresses we’re maybe a bit too dull for his on-and-off girlfriend Lady Gaga, but they are still perfect for his other young customers, like Sienna Miller and Jade Jagger.

The best of New York Fashion Week FW2010

New York doesn’t always have the best brands showing their new collections. Still some labels left a big impression on us at the latest New York Fashion Week during which the fall/winter collections for 2010/2011 were shown.

Marc Jacobs
One of the highlights certainly was Marc Jacobs’ fashion show. Not only did the designer create a buzz around his show by starting a contest on Twitter only three weeks before the show. The beginning of the show was also very spectacular, with the 56 models all standing in a box on the stag  wrapped in brown paper. The show started on time, ’cause there were no celebrities invited and we loved the fact that Somewhere over the rainbow was played. The song brought back good memories while Marc Jacobs brought back old trends. He showed many items of his nearly two-decade repertoire. He stressed the fact that he didn’t want his clothes to look new. They were fashionable but were ‘not trying too hard to be so’. The clothes looked conservative, pure and simple and had a vintage vibe going on. The waists were raised and the A-line was back. And we just let us carry away by the music, the romantic clothes and the serene atmosphere. We loved it!

Rodarte
Another NY show that breathed serenity was Rodarte. The models appeared in beige, nude and floral printed designs, while candles were burning and dripping in the background. The models’ glow in the dark heels represented dripping candles as well. It all fit perfectly with Kate and Laura Mulleavy’s idea of sleepwalking.  The clothes had a suitable dreamlike quality. Rodarte’s craftsmanship was better than ever, the patchworks looked cheerful, and the knits seemed very wearable. Especially the ending was magical when four models in long white dresses stood in the center of the catwalk.

Calvin Klein
From the romantic atmosphere at Rodarte we go to a modern looking Calvin Klein show. And thus we switch from Rodarte’s candlelight to bright techno light moving to the beat of Calvin Klein’s music. Calvin Klein’s show was memorable for it’s diverse models; eighties supermodels like Stella Tennant and Kirsten McMenamy walked alongside young, upcoming models. There were a lot of coats, many designs had round shoulders and we saw some interesting textures. The clothes were also very streamlined, they had sterile shapes and didn’t have a lot going on. And since everyone is so fond of the minimalistic look at the moment, continuing his simplistic and sober style was a smart idea of head designer Francisco Costa.

Michael Kors
A last highlight of the New York fashion week for us was the show of Michael Kors. It was actually quite the opposite of Calvin Klein’s sober collection. Michael Kors’ designs represented luxury and wealth. He showed us how glamorous sportswear can look. His materials looked exquisite, his camel clothes made us green with envy and his enormous fur coats had our full attention. The collection was loaded with must-haves for the rich and famous and Kors proved a winter collection can be very very sexy.

So these four different brands amazed us, made us smile and frown and let us think twice about fashion. The four collections were very diverse and yet equally likeable. It shows fashion is never about just one vision; it can be interpreted in a thousand different ways.

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