Helmut Lang Catwalk Fashion Show Womenswear SS2018 New York

The worlds of Helmut Lang and Shayne Oliver collided Monday night as the former Hood by Air designer put his distinct yet complementary stamp on the venerable label.

Many of the influences were the same — bondage, fasteners, metallics, monochromatic whites and lots and lots of black leather. The collection also featured a lot of Helmut Lang branded references. But Oliver’s penchant for deconstruction shone through in many of the pieces, providing the right balance to the overall collection.

Women’s looks channeled the brand’s history of provocation with Oliver’s disruptive spirit. Oliver was tasked with moving the conversation, sure to be divisive, back to the brand and incite a new following. Oddly shaped bras and bustiers, open-seam trousers and daring displays of skin for both day and evening winked at a kinkier and more adventurous customer.
In men’s, the tailored top coats were a highlight along with the fastening cummerbund worn with a pink shirt that made the look feel modern.

Helmut Lang Catwalk Fashion Show New York Womenswear FW2014

The collection of Michael and Nicole Colovos for Helmut Lang was called Rough Terrain and inspired by satellite photos of Mars. The duo played with cool abstract prints and pebbly textures that reflected the planet’s surface images.

Working in a neutral palette with shots of red, the designers focused on trans-seasonal pieces worked in lightweight fabrics — thin angora knits, minimalistic wool suiting and fluffy fur sweaters had a light feel.