Haider Ackermann Catwalk Fashion Show Paris ss2012

Haider Ackermann proved once again he’s a true master in choosing strong, bold colors, picking luxurious fabrics and mix this  into a graceful, powerful an dazzling collection. His ss2012-collection is about ‘rockabilly barons’ and – so it seemed – his own personal style in an exaggerated way, looking at the and the wide drop-crotch pants that tapered.

The cut was that of traditional menswear, but the fabrics were not. Thick silk and brocades came in beautiful colors, like deep purple, crystal blue and magenta. The lacing in gold and silver gave it an iridescent glow. Sheer silk, used for draped veils and skirts added drama while paisleys and madras added a touch of ethnic.

Haider Ackermann Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2011

At the sound of a slow heartbeat and Leonard Cohen’s poem A thousand kisses deep Haider Ackermann presented his romantic, serene collection. It lend to an outburst of emotion at the audience. The designer received a long and weldeserved applause. Some tears were falling down.

Don’t matter if the road is long
Don’t matter if it’s steep
Don’t matter if the moon is gone
And the darkness is complete
Don’t matter if we lose our way
It’s written that we’ll meet
At least, that’s what I heard you say
A thousand kisses deep

I loved you when you opened
Like a lily to the heat
You see, I’m just another snowman
Standing in the rain and sleet
Who loved you with his frozen love
His second hand physique
With all he is and all he was
A thousand kisses deep

I know you had to lie to me
I know you had to cheat
You learned it on your father’s knee
And at your mother’s feet
But did you have to fight your way
Across the burning street
When all our vital interests lay
A thousand kisses deep

I’m turning tricks
I’m getting fixed
I’m back on boogie street
I’d like to quit the business
But I’m in it, so to speak
The thought of you is peaceful
And the file on you complete
Except what I forgot to do
A thousand kisses deep

Don’t matter if you’re rich and strong
Don’t matter if you’re weak
Don’t matter if you write a song
The nightingales repeat
Don’t matter if it’s nine to five
Or timeless and unique
You ditch your life to stay alive
A thousand kisses deep

The ponies run
The girls are young
The odds are there to beat
You win a while, and then it’s done
Your little winning streak
And summon now to deal with your invincible defeat
You live your life as if it’s real
A thousand kisses deep

I hear their voices in the wine
That sometimes did me seek
The band is playing Auld Lang Syne
But the heart will not retreat
There’s no forsaking what you love
No existential leap
As witnessed here in time and blood
A thousand kisses deep

Leonard Cohen (do you want to listen to the poem? Click here)

Only Haider Acker-wo-mann

Haider Ackermann successfully launched his menswear line last season, but has already decided to quit it. For now there will be no more men’s clothing from the Belgium label.

A spokesperson from BVBA 32, the company that operates and produces Haider Ackermann’s collections said: ‘The decision to present a one-season collection was a creative decision. Haider wanted to underline the image he made for his women’s line with the man at her side. The men’s collection will be added again at the time Haider wants to and it will not be linked to a season. Creativity cannot be forced into a time frame. It is the emotion of the moment being translated to a collection, which is presented and sold to retailers who believe in creativity as such.’

Could it be that Haider Ackermann needs his time to prepare for his new job at Chanel? Last week in Numero magazine Karl Lagerfeld named Ackermann as his potential successor at Chanel. Yet we doubt Karl is leaving Chanel any time soon.  

(Vogue)

Haider Ackermann Catwalk Fashion Show SS2011

Everytime you see a collection of Haider Ackerman you are wondering how it is possible he can make leather look so sensual, elegant and modern. The black motorcycle jacket seemed his startingpoint and like a wizard he turned it into halters and vests with curls and bows and he let clash with large kimono jackets worn off the shoulder. He mixed it with black suede trousers – low and tight- or long pleated evening skirts.

Long narrow skirts and black jersey dresses and tops were held in place by just a few cords. Shoulders were small and razor-shape. And his signature cropped jackets were finished off in back with heart-shaped bows.

The color-palette was strong with royal reds and blues and a shot of yellow. The colors were shown in gowns bearing dramatic cutouts at the hip and spaghettistraps, or were an accent on lapels and linings, flashing out from a black jackets rolled sleeves. The overall effect was dramatic and modern. No wonder the audience cheered ecstatic.

Haider Ackermann Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2010

Haider Ackermann keeps surprising and spoiling his audience with beautiful, strong collections where he folds and twists leather as if it was chiffon and where he creates a poetic atmosphere with his sensual but strong layered mix.

Ackermann toughened up his collection with stiffer fabrics – wool, leather – and added softness with silk and satin for tops and cutout, buttersoft leather for long dresses. Main colors were brown, black and (silver)gray.

The accent was at the waist, tailored jackets formed the basis of the collection. He played with zipped and unzipped parts of jackets and tops which he folded and twisted until they looked like the curls of chocolate-shavings.

Still he maintained that slim, long silhouette although there were some shiny, straight outfits without any curve that looked rather new. It looks like Ackermann is exploring new ways of playing his game of texture and density.

Haider Ackermann Catwalk Fashion Show ss2010

Haider Ackermann had a full house for his excellent show. The atmosphere – excitement, music and collection – caused emotional shivers. The collection was all in monochromatic gray, black and saffron yellow. Ackermann played with textures and gave his clothes a  slight toughness with the use of leather and raw fabrics, but the cutting was more confident and sexy. The new key piece is the sleeveless, vaguely military jacket in leather or suede worn with blousy, rolled shorts.

Haider Ackermann Catwalk Fashion Show FW09

Haider Ackermann Catwalk Fashion Show SS09

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