Haider Ackermann Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Menswear FW2018

Haider Ackermann’s collection felt less gritty rock than past collections, and showed a more merch-friendly, cleaner side. Fully intact was his sense of color and nomad instincts. On a range of layered military-ethnic silhouettes for a chic dandy, the designer juxtaposed Army green and khaki with the jewel tones of the silky rich fabrics.

Quilted green and gold underlayers flashed out from the big tailored coats and jackets, silks lined upturned lapels, and white silk-linen cherry blossom embroideries climbed across the clothes, mixing with stripes on one of the kimonos. Soft unconstructed velvet leisure suits underscored the cocooning mood.

Haider Ackermann Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Menswear FW2017

“I’m always attracted to the elegant man, but I’m always kind of a mess,” said Haider Ackermann backstage ato WWD after his his wild patchwork of a show. The collection had a punk feel, with magnified houndstooth fabrics patchworked with black leather for vests and jackets; a long, dark red military style coat, and plaid, checked or striped trousers, some with tartan tops knotted around the waist. Velvet played a starring role, patched together with leather or wool for a jacket or adorned with devoré fabric with ragged edges or more houndstooth checks.
There were shiny, billowing anoraks, hoodies, houndstooth topcoats and suede bombers that came with turtlenecks, tank tops and vests.

Haider Ackermann Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Womenswear FW2016

With his exceptional feel for colour and his trained and unique eye for mixing prints, Haider Ackermann haven’t let us down any second. His army of female soldiers marched steadily on his music of the Oscar-winning film, The Revenant. But why should a army always be so harsh and distant? Ackermann searched for more grace, softness, elegance and happiness while still presenting strong women you don’t want to mess with (at least, we don’t). And that contrast between those two worlds was perfectly executed here in Paris. Super-skinny trousers with velvet at the front and leather in the back, a jacket softly slipping off one shoulder, next level cleavage all the way down too the belly button, loose low slung pants and a slim red velvet dress that’s perfect to flash every sinewy mile-long leg (yep, talking to you Angelina). The deep autumn-inspired colours felt very warm and made us want to bath in their sensuality: copper, purple, a deep bottle green, magenta and fuchsia. And of course, we could only sigh when seeing the utterly cool hair rag-rolled in bold coloured velvet. Can somebody tell us where can we apply for a job in this Paris national army?

Haider Ackermann Catwalk Fashion Show Womenswear SS2016

If punk ever had a soft side, Haider Ackermann showed us all how it would look like. Starting with the models’ hair that had touches of the brightest sky blue, anise green, orange, pink, and lavender strands, attached with safety pins. Colored hair is still a big trend in the land of bloggers and showbiz, so score! As bright as the models locks, as bright colored were the lighting and the clothing. Ackermann’s birds of paradise featured strong statement looks (“for a strange world” as the designer stated) in a range of rainbow-y shades styled off with black. Like a pair of fringed pastel yellow pants worn with a velvet mint green jacket and zebra shoes. Or a pair of bright (almost luminescent) yellow pants paired with a cropped blue biker jacket and a army green overcoat. Pieces of polka dot lace, fringes and ruffles in the mix. Details that added to the soft side of the collection as heavy leather and shiny silk, chiffon blouses and low slung pants formed the ultimate balance. Styling twists like tucked up tuxedo sleeves, touches of sheerness and nudity, velvet belts, pointy boots and fringed scarfs added to the coolness of the looks. Let bright colored troll hair and matching velvet tuxedo jackets be next summer’s dresscode!

Haider Ackermann Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2015

Beyond his consistent way with silhouette and proportion, there’s another thing that has defined Haider Ackermann’s work: his mastery of color. He tends not to emphasize print on the runway, but it came to the fore in his fall collection yesterday. Leopard spots decorated a tie-neck blouse; graphic black and white checks appeared on slim tapering pants; a polka-dot scarf was tied at the neck of a maxi coat. Topping it all off were fitted jackets and coats in glinting metallic tweed bouclé, the tweed simultaneously lending the collection a boyish and more sumptuous vibe.

Haider Ackermann Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Womenswear FW2014

Long lean silhouettes in a palette of grays, taupes, greens and browns awaited us at Ackermann. Designs with which the designer tried to portray gracefulness through their masculinity. And so models sported gray suits with long sleeves and low V-necks. They wore skinny velvet and leather bias cut pants with short structured jackets. Floor sweeping woolen coats and dark, lean turtle neck dresses belted around the waist. If the designs and the models’ expressions didn’t breath enough carelessness, it were the hands in those pockets that added to the feeling the collection, and perhaps Ackermann himself, was at ease. Creations may have started from a menswear point of view; worn by those graceful models, looks were sophisticated and tough (especially those zip-front jackets) even sporty at times, yet never too masculine. A hounds tooth print used on the thickest kind of wool looked perfect for winter and particularly beautiful on a maxi dress paired with a black top. A sober collection with just enough fresh influences to get us excited. Simplicity at it’s finest.

Haider Ackermann Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Womenswear SS2014

It amoxil was, again, a beautiful collection Haider Ackermann sent out today. He can certainly make a woman look beautiful in an almost accidental way. The collection was anchored in tailoring, most looks featuring a lean jacket with narrow lapels that showed a hint of Yves Saint Laurent.
Jackets were worn over diaphanous skirts or pants, and sometimes both, the former worn over the latter. While some such long dresses were mere veils of chiffon, others had skirts finely pleated for linear volume and graceful movement. Ackermann worked in black played against high-shine rich, dark tones — bronze, sapphire, purple. Yet he mixed in shots of white.

Haider Ackermann Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Womenswear FW2013

It’s always such a pleasure to see a show of Haider Ackermann. It’s almost like meditation: the slow pace of the models, the sensibility of the clothes, the pureness. Again, Ackermanns guide to his fall-collection was the thin line between strength and fragility.  Tailoring played a major role as did quiet tones of gray, black and white, green. Some of the tailoring was oversized, with full-legged pants and droopy sleeves almost to the knees. The model looked as if they were dressed in their lovers’ clothes. There we also sharper pieces with strong shoulders and defined waists, like the houndstooth military jacket with the collar torn off and the seams left raw, or another jacket in  brown with purple velvet lining its ruffled peplum.

Fur was new at Ackermann, but he used it well. His shearling flight jackets and his collarless beaver-fur coats looked beautifiul.

Haider Ackermann Catwalk Fashion Show Paris SS2013

There are a few reasons to be at a show of Haider Ackermann: to experience his color sense, to see his layered silhouette and to feel the exciting vibe at his beautiful, almost poetic shows.  Again, the belted and peplumed layers returned again and a spoken-word rendition of the Billie Holiday song “The Man I Love” played its pulse and caused goose-pimples.

The colors were nowhere to be seen. Instead of the usual rich hues, Ackermann employed graphic, geometric prints and a stricter palette— black, white, and navy. The first surprise were the polka dots, which decorated a sheer, slipdress worn with  pants in a smaller dot pattern.  But he also mixed  a vertically striped fitted jacket with a draped blouse and full trousers in two different mosaic-tile motifs.
Collage is a big trend this season, but where other designers patchworked individual pieces, Ackermann used whole outfits as his canvas.

Haider Ackermann Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2012

Again Haider Ackermann presented an intriguing and beautiful collection. Ackermann’s sent out an message of power-chic fueled by both dark and artful undercurrents. A lean, even severe silhouette dominated, sometimes cinched with a sharply geometric corset belt. Ackermann incorporated serious volume and a fascination with the lower torso. This resulted in tiered and sculpted peplums, hip adornments and leathers that pushed out from the waist to be cut away into dramatic front tails. Ackermann softened it up with hooded coats and long dresses. The  colors were magical, with oranges, reds, blues and purples against earthy neutrals.

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