Givenchy Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Menswear SS2017

The Givenchy menswear collection for SS2017 was a parade of military parkas in greenback prints that approximated camouflage. But Riccardo Tisci was thinking of something else: Spirituality, seeing with your third eye”, he told WWD. “Money sometimes makes us forget that.”
Tisci rigged his models for some kind of journey, backpacks laden with blankets — or split into three laptop-sized pouches attached to a harness.
The pants, as loose and flowing as sweat pants and often licked with stripes, gave the collection an athletic aspect — as did the chunky, graphic hiking sneakers. While the checkerboard patterns skewed a bit close to Louis Vuitton’s Damier check, the reference was games.

Givenchy Catwalk Fashion Show New York Womenswear SS2016

This year year is Riccardo Tisci’s tenth at the Givenchy-house, and there was a sense of celebration and coming of age amongst the clothes. It was a collection which spelled out and repeated almost calligraphic black and white variations of the same sentences: Ivory slip dresses and rouleau-strapped camisoles with lace edges, worn over excellently tailored black pants cut to taper gently over pointed shoes. Supple crepe tuxedo jackets with tails, soft kimono coats, and transparent organdy trenches glimmering with jet embroidery. Many, many body-skimming sparkly silver shifts.

Aficionados of Tisci maybe recognized the most spectacular of his couture dresses, one with a degrade feather effect, and another with leather patches applied on tulle in the shape of alligator skin. And then there was the face decoration, taken to another level of beautiful elaboration, in studded golden jewelry, tulle frills, and lace.

Givenchy Menswear Catwalk Fashion Show Paris SS2016

Givenchy Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2015

Riccardo Tisci of Givenchy found his inspiration for fall in Victoriana and the Latin toreador. The models had their hair in tight, braided loops with exaggerated curls plastered onto cheeks and foreheads and the wore framing facial jewelry that replicated piercings and tattoos. They looked beautiful and fierce.
On Tisci’s runway the mix resulted in short, trim jackets over sleek pants which transitioned seamlessly to tailcoats, some with peplums or double cutaways; some piped in un-Brit scarlet. The tailoring was sensual but seldom arch, with considerable diversity within the sphere. For example, while most jackets veered sleek, a pair of jeweled stunners featured dropped shoulders and short, cocoon-like sleeves. Dresses came mostly in velvets – cut, printed, crushed – some corseted, some almost medieval in their fluid lines and Byzantine palette.

Givenchy Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Womenswear FW2014

Riccardo Tisci redefined the word Womanly with his fall collection, amplifying the sensuality and subverting the traditional while layering on fantasy, modernity and luxury. The collection was about celebrating femininity and the rock woman.
Tisci created a tension between rich romance and powerful tailoring, opening with the former on buttoned-up silk blouses and skirts with soft pleats and tucks. Increasingly dreamy incarnations of that silhouette came in a leopard-print dress with butterfly wing motifs on the bust, and a butterfly print blouse with a ruffle in the outline of a heart on the chest.

As an aggressive contrast to the flou, many of the soft blouses had stark, linear strips across the shoulder blades. Similar strips and panels recurred throughout the show, adding strokes of color and geometry to his riffs on knit twinsets and tailoring cut with a Forties masculine allure.

The palette deepened and brightened throughout the show on abstract butterfly and snake motifs, leathers and opulent furs. The show culminated on a darkly seductive note: lean gowns with fitted shell-like tops and black pleated skirts.

Givenchy Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Womenswear SS2014

No bold, graphic shirts and mad fabrics, but a restrained and almost calm collection. Riccardo Tisci thought it was time to do something different. Since he was thinking alot of Africa and Japan, he let those to cultures clash for ss2014. “It’s a car crash of the two cultures —the fragility of Japan and the draping of Africa,” he said to the international fashionpress. To underline his point he had a smoking pileup of vintage Benzes, BMWs, and Jaguars in the center of the runway.

The clothes were elegant with Kimono-inflected suits with twisted lapels, flaring sleeves, and interplays of matte and shine, also with a kamagra online filmy little layer between jacket and pants. Dresses were draped a hundred different ways: from a ring below the throat to a a rugged leather strap slung over the shoulders like suspenders. Tisci showed them in stretch jersey, embroidered or pleated and strewn with sequins.

Givenchy Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Menswear SS2014

For the Givenchy Spring/Summer 2014 collection, Riccardo Tisci took the audience upon a journey from America to Africa. From L.A. skaters, nerds obsessed with vintage 1970s computers, electronics’ loudspeakers to African ethnography, the show was about mixing colors, shapes, designs and prints. Colorful silhouettes exude a sporty elegance and a freedom of layering with contrasting elements.

Bright and light computerized motifs gave a dynamic and graphic take to prints. They were merged with an influence of Masaï and Zulu bold iconography, layered together with the energy of sportswear.
Oversized shirts, polos, parkas, pleated bermudas and leggings alternate with fitted tailoring. Classic cotton fabrics such as poplin, jersey, gabardine and piqué contrast with thick nylon, silk organza or georgette, printed leather, satin and nylon knitted mesh. Neo-tuxedo pants in plain or printed cotton poplin are layered with silk georgette demonstrating masterful construction.

Givenchy Menswear Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2013

It was hard telling Saskia de Brauw from the other models walking through a path of hundreds of candles at Givenchy. Sporting the same dark brown coupe, strong features and muscled legs she perfectly blend in with the rest of the male models. She wore one of the crafted leather looks, leather being a big f/w theme for the French brand. White shirts looked crispy, black pants were well..black pants but those sweaters will be the real success items. The grey ones with the black and white prints will probably sell out first. Paired with white shirts, shorts and puffy jackets tied around the models’ waists they seemed extremely cool, yet wearable. Like almost every piece in this hit collection.

Givenchy Catwalk Fashion Show Paris SS2013

Riccardo Tisci presented a wonderful collection yesterday where he mixed serenity and edge into something special. His references were the Sixties and the archives of the Givenchy-house for the shapes. He also took inspiration from nuns for the purity and lightness.

And it all came together: ecclesiastical through the colors  (baby blue, white and black),  the feeling of restraint (signalled by rivets holding waists and shoulders in place and worn around necks as chokers), and through the shapes – which played on covering up.

Tisci’s catholic backround turned up in the priest collars on his sixties shifts, in the voluminous bishop sleeves on a striking black jacke,  in the split skirts worn with crisp, dry blazers and pants, like church vestments.

Givenchy Menswear Catwalk Fashion Show Paris SS2013

‘The cult of communion’ was the starting point of the Givenchy menswear-collection.  The church incense and organ music that preceded the show set the mood already.  Tisci printed innocent white brocade with spooky looking vestigial faces. He played with layering and proportion and gave just a small reference to priestly vestments by adding a white collar that peeked from under black coats or ice-pink satin.
The designer had artists reinterpret classic religious imagery to provide the collection’s graphic tees and sweats, which have made Tisci’s work for Givenchy such a visible presence around the world.

While the designer continued his devotion to active shapes — sweatshirts, polos, T-shirts and baseball jackets — he set aside his recent fixation with skirts for men. Instead, bi-level tunics flapped under suit jackets. Inspired by the Bauhaus movement, the tailoring was bold and linear, with triangles of fabric inset into lapels and shirt collars.Tisci treated feminine fabrics like satin and organza as sweatshirt material, stamping his sporty jerseys with female religious icons instead of player numbers.

 

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