Mirte van Wijngaarden Catwalk Fashion Show MBFWA FW2015

The toughest of men, inspired by the powerful and confrontational Samurai, walked the Mirte van Wijngaarden show. Nomads, warriors with thick eyebrows, hairy beards, messy hair and tough body postures. They sported strong, slightly out of this world designs, with pointy shoulders, long silhouettes, heavy layering. Created out of the most winter proof materials like thick leather, wool and winter tweeds. Attention was all in the details; one of a kind statement necklaces, laimbock gloves and leather bags in all shapes and sizes. A fascinating story. We’re curious to see it’s chapters being translated into modern, every day looks.

SIS by Spijkers en Spijkers Catwalk Fashion Show MBFWA FW2015

MetamorphoSIS was the name of today’s SIS collection. It referred to the title of a Kafka novel in which the main character wakes up one morning as a giant bug. Other stories about bugs too inspired Truus and Riet to takes us on a journey to a world of electronic frames and robot like insects. A far cry from their previous inspirations, women like Josephine Baker, yet definitely an exciting starting point. The show kicked off with several black and white looks in which checks played a main part. Pleated pants, suit jackets, a feminine high slit shirt dress, playful skirts, sporty sweaters and elegant coats. All worn oh so effortlessly by the models, who had the most fascinating hairstyles. Bugs were to be seen in every single look. As shiny XL pendants on the models necklaces, as large prints on their sweaters and bags as well as graphically printed on dresses and skirts. Besides the silhouette, those bugs were the returning factor in the collection. Even when dresses turned yellow, coats came by in green and blouses popped up in blue. Colorwise the designs became more outspoken towards the end. Bright primary colors formed larger than life, computerized bugs on a few typical SIS dresses. A few new Spijkers en Spijkers spectacles to match and we’re ready for the new season!

Barbara Langendijk Catwalk Fashion Show MBFWA FW2015

All nine models appeared at once at Barbara Langendijk’s show tonight. They practiced a complete choreography making sure every attendee could see the looks from all angles. Clean comfortable looks created only in shades of red, white, sand and black. Simplistic designs with a high level of exposure (sheer tops, see through skirts, breast revealing dresses). The models looked long, lean and classic, their hair worn back in a stylish bun, lips colored dark. A sand timer formed a fascinating backdrop to the serene show, portraying our limited attention span. It didn’t run out of time though. There were still seconds left for a little wave from Barbara and some guests stepping under the rain of sand. Riches from Rags.

Schuller de Waal Catwalk Fashion Show MBFWA FW2015

Both models and muses walked the runway at Schuller de Waal today. The muses were a handful of diverse, well known women (singer Ntjam Rosie, writer Hanna Bervoets, actrice Eva Bartels, Jans Possel – director Mediamatic -, singer Ming, DJ’s Charlotte van den Brekel and Elise Braas (Spacegirls) en fotografe Alexandra Hunts) inspiring the designers in their design process. They wore outspoken fashion pieces, created with a sense of couture. So the show notes read. The models sported looks made to give the black dress a new dimension. What we saw were designs full of contrast as far as texture and silhouette concerned. Dresses made out of both heavy (fur) and light (sheer) fabrics going from tight to loose fitting. Beautifully made, like you don’t always see at the smaller LAB shows by young designers. Every look was offered twice, the one resembling the other, yet still totally different in appearance. The designs felt urban, sporty, chic and refreshing. A solid addition to the Dutch fashion scene. Speculative Realism.

Bas Kosters Catwalk Fashion Show MBFWA FW2015

If there’s anyone who knows how to throw a decent catwalk party, it’s Bas Kosters. Year after year he gets the fashion crowd going by just letting music, make-up, backdrop and models in his designs work together. Today was no exception. Bas himself sat on a large block which stood on the catwalk. In Lotus position, like a fashion Budhha he looked at the fashion crowd. As he started spinning, yep, spinning, we’re talking Bas Kosters here, Valentijn de Hingh, opened the show. Naturally dressed in a bright colored, larger than life creation. As the show went on all typical ingredients came along. Tulle, bright colors, structured shapes, glitters everywhere, make-up overdone. Oh and let’s not forget the customized strollers, supermarket carts, dolls and Bas’ face as a backdrop. The music was a little less party, a little more spiritual. Incense and flowers spreading the love during the finale added up to that relaxation factor. An awakening and enlightening start of the weekend. Thanks for a good time, Bas!

Edwin Oudshoorn Catwalk Fashion Show MBFWA FW2015

A world collapsed offered the most beautiful backdrop at the closing show of today’s opening night. From piles of dust Edwin Oudshoorn angelic models appeared. In their hurry to escape, when it all came tumbling down, they were able to put on their most beautiful dress and grab a chic suitcase with their most important belongings. Perhaps containing some more fairy tale like creations? Not a bad idea.. The girls looked elegant, chic and maybe even a little out of this world. Floor sweeping gowns had floral applications, raffia embroideries and airy ribbons. Forties style in the mix with Japanese kimono silhouettes. Wide sleeves, asymmetric skirts and jackets that appeared to be sculpted. Silk, tulle, crepe and wool in shades of black, coral, burgundy, gold and grey; the summit of delicacy used on some of the most fascinating robes. Indestructible fashion pieces one simply can’t leave this world without. A return to home.

 

Individuals Catwalk Fashion Show Amsterdam FW2015

Down the escalator the models went. That Louis Vuitton trick never gets old. It made up for a spectacular entrance as the collection did the rest. In a sea of blue/gray-ish shades and a touch of yellow this year’s AMFI students presented their interpretation of Carefree like a Sunday morning. And carefree it was. Slouchy tops, baggy pants, nothing at sight that wasn’t comfortable. Robe-inspired coats with a big hug factor, a quilted skirt and cape seemed to be made from a sleeping bag. The models’ hands were either hidden under enormous sleeves or carried in the pockets. Heavy knitted socks in leather loafers had the same easy going appeal. Oh those Sunday mornings.. when you can just hide in your pajama’s or carelessly walk around in your underwear. Just comfort food and your favorite TV series. No make-up at sight, except of course from the beauty essentials print that popped up on a few pieces. The Individuals by AMFI students know just how important wearability and comfort really are in fashion nowadays. And with a fall collection as cosy as this one, who could resist?

Calvin Klein Catwalk Fashion Show Milan Menswear FW2015

At Calvin Klein we were welcomed by 44 looks. 45 outfits (including Zucchelli’s own) in just as much shades of grey (no, we won’t dare make that joke). Now we can’t say the lack of color never created a dull moment. The double breasted same suit seemed to be coming up three times, only a touch lighter every time. Same story with some overcoats and sweaters, but it was all good. At Calvin Klein you need to know it’s all in the details. Like a subtle and therefore chic leopard print that kept popping up. The perfect Nordic prints on some woollen jumpers. The high waisted trousers. The large chest pockets on some bomber designs and their super short fit. The fur collars and those high boots. Not to mention some of the showstoppers like the XL capes and those patent leather pants. Perhaps the show could have been more of a spectacle. Yet Zucchelli’s still left us with more than enough fashion food for thought.

Prada Catwalk Fashion Show Milan Menswear FW2015

Dutchie Maartje Verhoeff walked the Prada show this week. Not in Miuccia’s latest menswear designs though. No, the 17-year old strutted around in Prada’s pre-fall womenswear collection. As, for the first time, Miuccia simultaneously showed fall menswear and pre-fall womenswear. “Gender is a context and context is often gendered,” read the notes, as Miuccia explained this genderbleding had been on her mind for a while. Yet in stead of what you might expect (women dressed up in smart suits) there was a clear division. The girls were elegant women, dressed in playful, yet seductive dresses, short gloves, bows and handbags included. The men were buttoned up in business chic, simple suits. What both styles had in common was their simplicity and elegance. But shades (gray, camel, navy, black) materials (nylons and tweeds) and details (waist belts, double breasted) had some common ground as well. It was a modest collection, but a strong one nevertheless.

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