Theory Catwalk Fashion Show New York Womenswear FW2014

Olivier Theyskens wants the label Theory to be neat, disciplined and precise. And he serves that mandate well, regarding the presentation yesterday. He escalated the collection’s core of minimal basics by tweaking proportions and developing fabrics. The classic white shirt came elongated as a crisp, straight tea-length dress and a roomier version that cut away on the left side. The asymmetrical hem was a repeat effect bringing controlled drama to dresses, some with transparent skirts, and hourglass jackets that were folded into structured ruffles on one side.

The more lyrical side was revealed in shiny jackets — silk bonded to wool — embroidered with green and silver florals.

Helmut Lang Catwalk Fashion Show New York Womenswear FW2014

The collection of Michael and Nicole Colovos for Helmut Lang was called Rough Terrain and inspired by satellite photos of Mars. The duo played with cool abstract prints and pebbly textures that reflected the planet’s surface images.

Working in a neutral palette with shots of red, the designers focused on trans-seasonal pieces worked in lightweight fabrics — thin angora knits, minimalistic wool suiting and fluffy fur sweaters had a light feel.

Donna Karan Catwalk Fashion Show New York Womenswear FW2014

It was an emotional moment when Donna Karan took her bow yesterday after her show – she celebrated 30 years in fashion and that didn’t happen easily. But the applause was well deserved, not only because she is a remarkable designer, but also because her fall-collection had everything Karan is famous for. A collection with a city vibe, sensual, urbane.
Her show opened with with three versions of her original building block — the body — now rendered as body jacket and body shirt as well as bodysuit. These were worn with over-the-knee suede boots and caps frothed with dollops of long-hair shearling, giving the models the air of showgirls at a decadent yet refined nightclub. They set the stage for a parade of the Best of Donna.
Evening-wear rocked, particularly the gowns with fluid, translucent skirts that wafted provocatively over bodysuits and bare legs. Some were beaded in celebration of New York’s night sky.

Streetfashion New York Womenswear FW2014, Day 3

What are you wearing during the fashionweeks? Your Gucci-shoes, that vintage Prada or your latest Givenchy-sweater? Maybe we’ll spot you in Paris, Milan, New York or Amsterdam. During the fashionweeks we refresh our streetwear posts regularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style. Next stop: New York Womenswear Fashion Week fall/winter 2014.

Alexander Wang Catwalk Fashion Show New York Womenswear FW2014

Alezander Wang presented an impressive collection, which started with the idea of extreme conditions and survival. To editors the designer mentioned National Geographic, the great outdoors, competitive sports and the urban landscape. He translated that into sporty silhouettes lavished with detail. Spare, seriously tailored tunics layered with sharp shirts provided a baseline look that Wang built out through the show. He added puffy utility pockets and then moved into a colorful, paisley foulard moment, before escalating the fabric development into knotted leather-and-tulle sweaters and fluorescent jerseys made of woven shoe-laces. The leather-work continued in interesting coats and tunics with raw-cut hems.
Accessories were designed like thematic toys: utility handbags with detachable compartments molded into shapes for a lighter, an iPhone, a Moleskine notebook and a flask. Two boot styles — one like a shin guard, one over-the-knee — were likened to shields. And the ultimate special effect: the finale of all-black outfits that turned colors — purple, green and blue — thanks to heat-sensitive fabric.

Rebecca Taylor Catwalk Fashion Show New York Womenswear FW2014

The work of Parisian street artist Philippe Baudelocque inspired designer Rebecca Taylor for her latest collection.

A black and white ‘storm’ print, for example, was a clear nod to the artist’s chalk drawings on black backgrounds throughout the city. But Taylor’s mix of delicate fabrics and soft colors juxtaposed against tougher fare spoke to the idea of fragility in an urban environment.

Jesus del Pozo Catwalk Fashion Show New York Womenswear FW2014

The colors of Italian artist Duilio Barnabé’s paintings and the retro-futuristic atmosphere of “Logan’s Run” merged to inspire Josep Font’s fall collection for Madrid-based Jesus Del Pozo.

The lineup touched different notes, from feminine and ethereal to severe and powerful. The contrasting moods were unified under a strong couture sensibility, a distinguishing feature of Font’s ready-to-wear efforts.

His collection opened with overcoats, dresses and separates in sculpted A-line silhouettes. These included a beige maxi cape with pointed shoulders and a brown zip jacket with a petal-like maxi collar embroidered with a floral motif, worn over a flared mini-skirt.

Then, the clothes became softer with mohair sweaters and organza and chiffon styles, such as a pleated evening shirtdress, embroidered with crystals and sequins in floral shapes.

DKNY Catwalk Fashion Show New York Womenswear FW2014

For fall Donna Karan and her design team decided to celebrate the New Yorks diversity, making that point clear with the show’s production. It started with a video featuring real-life New Yorkers — all young and edgy and in varying ethnicities — waxing poetic about the city.

Then came the runway show, cast with a mix of models and locals including girl-about-town Hannah Bronfman, nightlife hostess Melissa Burns and DJ Chelsea Leyland. As for the clothes, they too were diverse, from sporty to utilitarian to feminine. Karan mixed functional with whimsical — a quilted parka coat with a long-hair shearling hood over a glittery sequined skirt; an elegant burgundy fur vest with a navy duffle coat and wrap skirt.

It ended with flashes of hot pink worked on pieces including a lace jacket and slipdress.

Streetfashion New York Womenswear FW2014, Day 2

What are you wearing during the fashionweeks? Your Gucci-shoes, that vintage Prada or your latest Givenchy-sweater? Maybe we’ll spot you in Paris, Milan, New York or Amsterdam. During the fashionweeks we refresh our streetwear posts regularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style. Next stop: New York Womenswear Fashion Week fall/winter 2014.

Lacoste Catwalk Fashion Show New York Womenswear FW2014

A visit to a golf course built in the late Twenties in France’s Basque region by René Lacoste’s father-in-law, was the starting point for Felipe Oliveira Baptista’s collection for Lacoste. He handled the golfing theme with restraint.

The sporty looks were relaxed, polished and wearable, but could have used a little zest. The women’s portion had its moments of girlish charm,  lik the cool, oversize white sweater with an abstract motif over a skirt. For men, Baptista worked in a mostly tonal palette with ensembles in burgundy, blue and beige, including a double-breasted hooded jacket with pants cut close to the body.

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