Roberto Cavalli Catwalk Fashion Show Milan Womenswear FW2014

Forget clean and simple fashion; more is more if you ask Roberto Cavalli. And that does not only concern his clothing… The designer created a large ring of fire as the set for his fall/winter show around which the models strutted their stuff. With the first look coming up the tone was set for an animalistic over the top collection. Slim snakeskin trousers, a leopard printed blouse, a large fur stola and a golden lion head on a tassle necklace. Long and lean fringed (flapper) dresses and tight pants followed, worn with lots of fur and similar jewelry. Statement prints, studs, beads and sequins made every look extravagantly glamorous. Attires the average woman won’t soon be walking around in. No, A-listers and real housewives of Beverly Hills will probably still be Cavalli’s target group, although he stated this week he wished fashion was “less tied to all those stars” and that he wouldn’t be dressing anyone for the Oscars. Oh well, as long as business is doing good and he doesn’t turn into a copycat like he accused Michael Kors to be.

Bottega Veneta Catwalk Fashion Show Milan Womenswear FW2014

The idea of today’s Bottega Veneta collection seemed simple. For his first collection in collaboration with Katie Grand Tomas Maier came up with graphic dresses and skirts worn with woolen sweaters. Prints were uneven, just like the geometric satin and leather pieces attached on many of the dresses. Pleats and plisse details were visible throughout the whole collection, creation impressive 3D effects at times. It resulted in a very wearable and feminine collection, with enough refreshing extras to keep us and of course the Veneta woman interested. Not a pair of pants at sight, but who needs trousers when those kind of graphic kneelength skirts are available.

Etro Catwalk Fashion Show Milan Womenswear FW2014

Sure, minimalistic fashion can be super chic. But there’s nothing wrong with a perfect mix of textures, prints, colors and embroideries, like we saw at Etro Friday afternoon. On the contrary, the show was a feast to watch. Etro may be famous for it’s paisley prints; designer Veronica proved the brand has way more to offer. The clothes had luxury written all over them, with models sporting creations made out of deep colored, rich fabrics. Contemporary looks with a definite vintage touch.  Perhaps those wide legged pants with golden prints looked a little too disco (seventies/eighties) and a brown velvet dress (paired with a waistcoat) is hardly to become a fall musthave, but the rest of the collection had enough modern accents to make it cool. Forget those monochrome printless pieces that have been dictating fashion for the last few seasons; we want paisleys, florals, checks, tassles, shearling, embroideries, fur bags, suede boots and what not.

Sportmax Catwalk Fashion Show Milan Womenswear FW2014

The heaviest fabrics, yet not necessarily the warmest looked popped up at Sportmax today. The Italian fashion house presented an animal inspired (leopard prints, snake leather and a wide variation of fur accents) collection with perfectly tailored coats, sophiticated skirts and elegant, sleeveless dresses. Doubles breasted suit jackets seemed menswear inspired and a few fur creations appeared kinda boxy, but other than that Sportmax F/W2014 with a strong focus on the waist, peplum accents and deep cleavages was a celebration of femininity. Touches of red and blue and an ultra bright paint spatter print brought the pieces to live and that multi colored type of fur definitely made up for some show stopping looks.

Blumarine Catwalk Fashion Show Milan Womenswear FW2014

Just as Eastern inspired collection themes seem to be fading away, Anna Molinari came up with an Asian inspired collection this morning. She sent her models out on the runway sporting, shiny satin creations, with eastern inspired floral prints and kimono sleeves. Not only was the satin shiny, the designer played with metallics, glitter, sequins and smashing leather too. Heavy leather and fur were in the mix with sheer tulle and lace, hardly ever covering up the models well enough for the winter season. But then again these looks aren’t meant for everyday wear. They were created to make heads turn and yaws drop. Like the finale of evening wear, containing both shiny tuxedos and sequined party dresses.

Costume National Catwalk Fashion Show Milan Womenswear FW2014

Apart from an all red look and a selection of full on purple ensembles Costume National told a true monochrome story today. Fresh faced models (hardly any make-up, hair undone; the kind of streetstyle coolness we know from most French editors) worked the modern, cool f/w2014 collection, which formed the ultimate mix of menswear inspired creations (pinstripes, boxy fits, large collars and suits) and elegant feminine designs (sexy dresses, sheer blouses and lots of (faux?) fur. Like the first crispy white look with a pair of loose fitting pants, brogue shoes and a winter proof fur waistcoat, worn carelessly, hands in the pockets. Followed by a more sexy attire, short dress, bare legs, high heels. A few navy & black designs were less impressive, but other than that, f/w 2014 just felt right. The CN woman is not trying to hard to fit in. She’s not desperate to look sexy or desirable. And she doesn’t dress the way she dresses for anyone else but herself. That’s why the CN woman, or girl if you will, is so damn hot. Yes, especially in that tux-inspired black suit at the end.

Fendi Catwalk Fashion Show Milan Womenswear FW2014

Cara Delevingne dressed in a chic black hooded coat with faux fur detailing carrying a tiny faux fur Lagerfeld doll (the latest it-accessory?) was the first look of today’s Fendi show. What followed were lots of beautiful coats, dresses and jackets created out of a mix of fabrics (very Fendi). Wool, velvet, neoprene, mesh parts and faux fur details in all the right places filled the Italian fashion house’s fall/winter presentation. There was a focus on coats, jackets and (skater) skirts and the whole collection had a very sporty vibe. Coats got bomber jacket collars, designs had all kinds of neoprene and mesh parts and those leather boots had a definite sneaker appeal. Apart from the company’s great leather bags and few orange shaded sunglasses and that one particular doll, orchids pinned onto the fur coats (inspired by Billie Holiday’s song “Violets for Your Furs,” Lagerfeld thought of the tradition that dictated a woman’s husband or lover would pin her with a floral corsage as she set off cross-country by train, which led to travel being the theme of his new Fendi collection) formed the ultimate f/w2014 accessory. All of this was filmed by drones (flying technology objects with tiny camera’s that provide a 360 degree view) and broadcasted live on the Fendi website. Now that’s even better than a front row seat!

 

 

Max Mara Catwalk Fashion Show Milan Womenswear FW2014

Inspired by Scotland Max Mara came up with a luxurious collection this week. Full of rich materials with lots of texture the brand focused on it’s strongest asset; outerwear. With a wide range of classy coats (from woolen and tweed to quilted and leather) to choose from, the Max Mara women won’t be cold next winter. They were worn with pencil skirts (over the knee, mid calf), paired with sleeveless woolen tops, designs with PVC details and crocodile printed gold creations (even shoes!). Not tucked in, but worn to their full length, far below the waist. The designs may have been classic; the careless appeal of the models (hair undone, hardly any make-up, yet bright red lips) made them look young and fresh. As fresh as the collection’s lichen green, which already has us in deep thoughts figuring out with what tone to match it.

Streetfashion Milan Womenswear FW2014, Day 1

What are you wearing during the fashionweeks? Your Gucci-shoes, that vintage Prada or your latest Givenchy-sweater? Maybe we’ll spot you in Paris, Milan, New York or Amsterdam. During the fashionweeks we refresh our streetwear posts regularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style. Next stop: Milan Womenswear Fashion Week fall/winter 2014.

Alberta Ferretti Catwalk Fashion Show Milan Womenswear FW2014

It was clear that Alberta Ferretti got her inspiration from the woods and birds. The result was far from magcical and arty, it got a depth and sobriety via heavy textures and embellishments. Feathers were a key component of the collection — as a print; as an illusory mélange of pleated ribbon; and as a real detail.
Ferretti also played up decorative elements such as sequins, feathers, flower appliqués and ribbons. Her palette contained the colors of fall, green on the point of turning to orange, or peculiar leaf-mold tones. The textures followed suit — fabric technology duplicated tree bark, a nubby autumnal tweed was shot through with gold.

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