No 21 Catwalk Fashion Show Womenswear Milan FW2013

Alessandro Dell’Acqua’s fall collection for No. 21 was inspired by Nineties grunge. The designer fused British influences with a dose of Italian glamor, making for a study in contrasts. There was also Dell’Acqua’s signature masculine-feminine aesthetic including rockabilly drainpipe pants — cropped to show off Michael Jackson-style crystal-studded socks — and cocoon coats.

 

Alberta Ferretti Catwalk Fashion Show Womenswear Milan FW2013

For her fall 2013 collection Alberta Ferretti stayed close to her DNA, meaning: soft romance and femininity. Out came lovely clothes, subtle and sometimes playful with some impressive workmanship in re-embroidered lace and floral adornments. Two silhouettes dominated: straight to the floor and a shorter version. Colors varied from black and white, blue, purple, red and green. Especially her velvet dresses were pretty.

 

 

Gucci Catwalk Fashion Show Womenswear Milan FW2013

The Gucci-collection for fall 2013 is about smart, wearable, precisely cut style. Designer Frida Giannini went for structured, sculptural lines with pronounced shoulders, either rounded or slightly raised. There were roomy coats and jackets over slim skirts, suits and dresses with body-conscious allure often with V-necklines. This is a powerwoman, especially when she is wearing black (snake) leather. Colors were traditinal autumn-like: moss-green, maroon, russet.

Streetfashion London Womenswear FW2013 Day 2

What are you wearing during the fashionweeks? Your Celine-shoes, your latest Raf Simons-sweater or that vintage Gucci? Maybe we’ll spot you in Paris, Milan, New York or Amsterdam. During the fashionweeks we refresh our streetwear posts regularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style. Next stop: London Fashion Week fall/winter 2013.

 

Streetfashion London Womenswear FW2013 Day 1

What are you wearing during the fashionweeks? Your Celine-shoes, your latest Raf Simons-sweater or that vintage Gucci? Maybe we’ll spot you in Paris, Milan, New York or Amsterdam. During the fashionweeks we refresh our streetwear posts regularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style. Next stop: London Fashion Week fall/winter 2013.

Marc Jacobs Catwalk Fashion Show Womenswear New York FW2013

For the set of his show Marc Jacobs got inspired by the ‘Weather Project’ of artist Olafur Eliasson’s, a huge hot sun that shone intensely on the models. Jacobs started his show under the sun’s low frequency light that removed all color, everything seemed black, gray and sepia. Then the light changed and it revealed a beautiful palette of neutrals and soft colors, poink, blue, deep burgundy and green. It was a simple collection without any techno-fabrics. Jacobs choose traditional materials like cashmere and alpaca, silk and fur. For day there were chic skirt looks and coats in blue alpaca and pink cashmere.The shine came via an embroidered fishnet motif on sensual pajama looks, and fox-collared tulle jackets covered in big, loose paillettes, some over-sequined gowns.

Calvin Klein Catwalk Fashion Show Womenswear New York FW2013

There was some Soviet influence in the fall-collection Calvin Klein presented. It was visible in the distinct military details, especially with the first few suits and dresses. Mostly in black and navy, they came in a faint plaid with vinyl inserts. Designer Costa made a powerful statement with lots of leather, accentuated shoulders on tailored pieces and several oversize silhouettes in stiffer fabrics. He countered this almost workmanlike sensibility with sexy bandeau tops that were wrapped in the back.

Ralph Lauren Catwalk Fashion Show Womenswear New York FW2013

Designer Ralph Lauren looked at Russia for his fall 2013 collection, but also took some inspiration from Paris.

Lauren’s day looks drew from naval motifs, particularly an array of outerwear, from pea-coats to officer’s caots. These came in various proportions, sometimes cut away. Though most were black or navy, Lauren lightened the lineup with a roomy ivory topper. He also showed knits and poetic shirts with billowing sleeves.

As for the pants, Lauren went for a classic sailor motif in skinny stovepipes. His other favorites were Cossack pants shown in burgundy and navy, sometimes pleated for extra volume.

Lauren broke up the mannish influence with lovely fluid dresses in deep-toned velvets and a beautiful series of evening-gowns.

First View New York Womenswear FW2013: an Englishman in New York

Here is a very clear and retail-friendly trend to spot. Classic English tailoring, menswear suiting materials and silhouettes referencing collegiate prep. Not that we have never seen this before. This is all about comfort and ease, not so much in the fit but more in mindset – looking good, no shock, no unease and absolutely no risk. Luckily there are some designers to give this look a twist. By adding a touch of futurism in bonded materials or a quiet but brave re-proportioning of the silhouette. But mostly this is about referencing the classic, the authentic and re-viving as well as re-living tradition in Peacoats and double-breasted coats and blazers combined with abbreviated minis.

Tommy Hilfiger stays close to its preppy roots with Prince of Wales checks and hound’s-tooth checks and plaids. Rag & Bone, adds modernity by re-proportioning and mixing materials and textures. Victoria Beckham layers her skin-tight and sexy dresses with mannish but nevertheless sensual coats. Then have a look at Marc by Marc Jacobs, Y3 and Thom Browne to see how they manage to merge these icons of tailoring with their personal signature.

Hail to history and now back to the future please!

Stylespot is a collaboration with Stijlinstituut Amsterdam

 

Oscar de la Renta Catwalk Fashion Show Womenswear New York FW2013

Was this fall-collection of Oscar de La Renta a collaboration with John Galliano or not? Not one will know for sure. The American designer took the bow at the end and Galliano stayed backstage. Certain looks seemed to bear the Englishman’s hand, especially the opening jackets and  also the marcelled locks and deeply shaded, greasy eyes were familiar from his Paris days. Other pieces seemed more like vintage de la Renta, and that was good.

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