Viktor & Rolf Haute Couture Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2013

After a 13-year absence designers Viktor & Rolf returned to the stage of Haute Couture in Paris and they went for something altogether more contemplative, but nevertheless magical.  Twenty models wearing sculptural black looks – one for each of their 20 years in fashion together – moved at slow pace across a rectangle printed with raked stones, ultimately assembling in five clumps to approximate the famous Zen garden at the Ryōan-ji temple in Kyoto, Japan.

The undulating, organic shapes were all realized in a spongy technical silk and engineered so that the models resembled stones when in the postures necessary to mimic the garden’s composition. It required curved seams, dimpled insets and 1,000 hours in the atelier to create details mimicking grass.

And at second sight the creations were really wearable.  The silhouettes were varied and surprisingly fetching when models stood upright, ranging from a regal cutaway coat to a bulbous chubby sprouting those grass-like strands. Dresses had an S-curve in profile, extra fabric bunching at the small of the back and past the knees. When seated on small cushions, the designers arranged the dresses to hide limbs and match the raked patterns around the “stones.”

But Viktor & Rolf wanted to broadcast their more abstract and conceptual ideas instead of making it a commercial success. The fact that half the collection already sold to an unnamed art collector proves that they can still make interesting couture-collections.

Iris van Herpen Haute Couture Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2013

Dutch designer Iris van Herpen sent out metallic shell like structures that engulfed the upper body, as well as kimono-dresses with fragile cutout patterns. Of course she used her favorite techniques 3D-printing and laser cutting to produce her effects. It was the first time she made a complete dress by 3D printing.
She also played with the notion of the human body altered by surgery and scarification via pierced silicon dresses.

Jan Boelo Catwalk Fashion Show Amsterdam FW2013

Silverscreen cult favorite Nikita, Luc Besson’s femme fatale of the 90’s, was Jan Boelo’s inspiration for his fall winter 2013 collection entitled Deserted Eagle. Within Temptation’s singer Sharon ten Adel performed live during the show and that also set the tone for the vibe that surrounded the clothes: rock’n roll. Boelo’s new collection showcased skinny men’s and women’s metallics, tailored blazers and a-symmetrical cut dresses.  There was also oversized outerwear, corduroy suits and ballet-inspired cross-over tops. Fringes, hats and wrapped scarves gave it all a bohemian look and feel.

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The Big Round Up Womenswear FW 2013 Part 2

This is the second part of our round up regarding the fall 2013 collections, which focuses on Prints, Fabrics and the designers’ favorite coming season: checks.

CHECK SHOCK

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From left to right: N21, Junya Watanabe, Céline, Jesús Del Pozo, Rag & Bone

A mash up of Scottish tweeds, plaids, checks, Prince of Wales suiting and hounds tooth jacquards. Classic, twisted, cut up, patched or blown up to grandiose proportions. These are definitely all from the now – heritage inspired, college prep, BCBG, archetypal and iconic but reinvigorated – rejuvenating tradition at N21 and Rag & Bone, adding a punk coded sense of rebellion at Junya Watanabe or with artful tailoring at Céline and Jesús Del Pozo. Check marks everywhere!

 

TEXTILE ART

From left to right: Comme des Garçons, Chanel, Hermès, Fendi, Lanvin

Free floating freedom and fun. Cascading swatches of fabrics, rosettes, bows, thick serpentines and bold biomorphic shapes at Comme des Garçons. Rounded flounced belle Époque bustles are a joyful explosion of extravagance at Chanel. Crafted spontaneity at Hermès, fringed skins at Fendi and butterflies appliquéd at Lanvin. All with techno-barbarian enthousiasm. These are exercises in pure texture.

 

PRINT STORY

From left to right: Mary Katrantzou, Rodarte, Tom Ford, Peter Pilotto

Welcome to the catwalk circus. Exalted excess in a cultural cross over ranging from glam, to disco, pop to op and manga to Marvel. Fantastical shadowy landscapes in misty monochromes at Mary Katrantzou and cross-cultural multi ethnic Flash! and Bang! at Tom Ford. The very personal folksy mysticism of Rodarte and the cartoonish verve of Peter Pilotto. We are talking maximalism here!

Stylespot is a collaboration with Stijlinstituut Amsterdam

 

First View Paris Womenswear FW2013: Bed Time

Cosy is not the usual aspect spotted on a Paris catwalk. But nevertheless we met a snug bedtime spirit in Paris with models flaunting out of hotel rooms in silky, lush pyjamas, lace-edged-negligees and flowery dressing gowns. Roomy, soft robes that showed the generous proportions of menswear. Sensual and intimate voluptuous bathrobes lined in marabou. Fabulous, sheltering cashmere wrap-coats in baby blue, pink, camel and blush in smooth, winter-weight woolens and brushed plaids. And thick silk pyjamas printed with English tweed patterns or tender China florals.

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Softness and desire seemed a re-found aspect, in touchable styles that established an intimate dialogue between the masculine and the feminine.

Carven is rounding out with oversize coats in teddy bear textures. Cinematic sceneries at Vuitton, in a film noir esprit, showing various states of dress and undress in a midcentury inspired atmosphere. Stella McCartney goes square, though softened, in snugly, velvet touch robe coats.

We noted a refreshing sense of ease, slightly quirky and off beat and an inspiring invitation to cuddle up.

Stylespot is a collaboration with Stijlinstituut Amsterdam

Streetfashion Womenswear Paris FW2013 Day 8

What are you wearing during the fashionweeks? Your Celine-shoes, your latest Raf Simons-sweater or that vintage Gucci? Maybe we’ll spot you in Paris, Milan, New York or Amsterdam. During the fashionweeks we refresh our streetwear posts regularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style. Last stop: Paris Fashion Week fall/winter 2013.

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Streetfashion Paris Womenswear FW2013 Day 7

What are you wearing during the fashionweeks? Your Celine-shoes, your latest Raf Simons-sweater or that vintage Gucci? Maybe we’ll spot you in Paris, Milan, New York or Amsterdam. During the fashionweeks we refresh our streetwear posts regularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style. Next stop: Paris Fashion Week fall/winter 2013.

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McQueen Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Womenswear FW2013

Held at the OTT Opéra Comique, Sarah Burton closed the fall fashion season with a collection of just ten pieces. Divided into five themes (communion, nuns, cardinals, popes, and angels) the designer, who just gave birth to twins, presented two dress variations for every theme. “From communion gowns to cardinals”, read the show notes, as we tried to take in every single detail of the ten extravagant, angelic appearances full of various religious iconography. It might have been just ten looks, with models covered head (literally, since all girls sported heavy decorated masks) to toe in handcrafted, pearl encrusted lace ensembles, Sarah must have had her hands full. And why would you show so much more of the same thing, when you can perfectly convey your message with just a small selection. A smart fashion lesson to learn, right at the end of this Paris Fashion Week.

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Valentino Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Womenswear FW2013

Perhaps the show could have had a few less dress variations in it, but we fully understand Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli for leaving them in, since they were all too beautiful. Mostly inspired by the work of Dutch artist like Vermeer the designduo introduced us to their minimal yet ultra elegant selection of mostly dresses. They started off with a A-line black dress, that had long sleeves and a standout lace-like collar and cuffs. Simple, but perfect. Variations to that dress came in blue, embroidered, printed, over the knee and eventually floor sweeping. Laser cut collars, cut outs and transparent parts, coats and a clean blue jumpsuit kept us on the edge of our seat. Not to mention the blue and white gowns decorated by a Delft ceramics pattern. The fact that we’re Dutchies has nothing to do with our opinion about this show. It was just beautiful.

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Streetfashion Paris Womenswear FW2013 Day 6

What are you wearing during the fashionweeks? Your Celine-shoes, your latest Raf Simons-sweater or that vintage Gucci? Maybe we’ll spot you in Paris, Milan, New York or Amsterdam. During the fashionweeks we refresh our streetwear posts regularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style. Next stop: Paris Fashion Week fall/winter 2013.

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