Yves St. Laurent Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2012

Again black and black leather were in the spotlights of a menswear-collection. Stefano Pilati presented a younger take on chic dressing, with a sexy and agressive edge. His sharp, power suits were toughened up with biker jacket details.  The opening tuxedo with peak lapels in gleaming leather was strong. Leather panels added rigor and a hard edge to wool coats, carrot-shaped flannel pants and sweaters. Loafers glinting with metallic straps added a robotic note.

Outerwear was mainly a variation on the biker jacket. There were some classic styles, too.

 

Streetfashion Paris Menswear FW2012 Day 2

What are you wearing during these menswear fashionweeks? Your Prada-shoes, your latest Raf Simons-jacket or that vintage Gucci? Maybe we’ll spot you in Paris, Milan, New York or Amsterdam. During the fashionweeks we refresh our streetwear posts regularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style. Next stop: Paris Menswear Fashion Week.

Rick Owens Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2012

No darkness and monk-like dressing at Rick Owens for fall 2012. His collection looked quite sharp, also chic and masculine. The signature look was a slim, dropcrotch pant in black with a white shirt or turtleneck. Of course there was some leather too, like his signature black jacket, but that even had a sartorial cut.

Dries van Noten Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2012

At least there is one designer who tries to mix humor and menswear to an elegant collection. Dries van Noten felt like doing something that would make people smile, and so he did. He mixed psychedelic prints with his signature menswear that had a military edge. The military coats, stovepipe trousers and sweaters came along well with the naive prints. The skinny jeans and shoes looked cool.

Also compliments to Dutch artists Gijs Frieling and Job Wouters who realized a mural as a backdrop during the show, featuring the same architectural and typographic motifs.

 

Streetfashion Paris Menswear FW2012 Day 1

What are you wearing during these menswear fashionweeks? Your Prada-shoes, your latest Raf Simons-jacket or that vintage Gucci? Maybe we’ll spot you in Paris, Milan, New York or Amsterdam. During the fashionweeks we refresh our streetwear posts regularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style. Next stop: Paris Menswear Fashion Week.

Viktor & Rolf Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2012

Viktor&Rolf’s Monsieur is a modern gentleman. As ever, he’s a hybrid of classic intellectual and ravishing style icon.  Viktor&Rolf’s Autumn/Winter 2012 collection was inspired by this gentleman at home – taking cues from luxurious interior design treatments and translating them to apparel. The enhanced shoulder structure of silhouettes gives subtle reference to Viktor&Rolf’s female Atomic Bomb Collection – in a masculine rendition.

Outerwear and suiting continue to be iconic staples in the Monsieur wardrobe. Suiting evolves for this gentleman with refined silk tuxedo jackets paired with nappa leather trousers – an unexpected edge to classical eveningwear.  Outerwear is rich offering a range set to olives, burgundy, burnt mauve and deep emerald greens. Pieces are composed of unconstructed overcoats in suri and alpaca wool, cotton nylon parkas sleek in fit, cashmere wool military trenches in olive and black framed with shaved beaver and jacket variations with unique shaved and printed shearling treatments. Knitwear is versatile and functional as lighter outerwear – a coral reversible zipper-front sweater in shearling and crepe wool is a highlight.

 

Giorgio Armani Catwalk Fashion Show Milan FW2012

In Milan traditional men’s wear fabrics such as tweed, herringbone and plaids were dominating the fall-collections, and Giorgio Armani is no exception. The designer presented a masculine but soft-edged collection,  with knitted wool, stretchy fabrics, velvet,  corduroy and leather. Knitwear was also used as outerwear in double-breasted coats with patch pockets and short jackets with high, zippered necks.

Softness and comfort wove its way throughout the collection: fitted tweed or corduroy suit jackets had deconstructed shoulders, while anoraks were made from black velvet. Armani choose  a looser, pleated silhouette of trouserd that narrowed at the ankle. Plus he presented his version of the power suit, which exuded the arrogant confidence of the Roaring Eighties.

 

Etro Catwalk Fashion Show Milan FW2012

Etro designer Kean Etro couldn’t get enough of feathers for his FW2012-collection. Feather-prints, real fathers, at shoes, vests, blazers and tailcoats. It gave all the formal and evening looks a fancy edge, but it didn’t lead to a strong collection. Of course there was the usual velvet, the fitted suit and the usual dark colors plus red and orange, which made the collection fit in the trend of romance & decadence.

Gucci Catwalk fashion Show Milan FW2012

Well it was very obvious that the Gucci-collection fw2012 is about romance and decadence. 19th century bohemian men played a major role in this mix of flower prints, velvets, jacquards and tapestry. The designer played with proportions putting big overcoats over chunky crew necks and cardigans over skinny trousers and riding boots. Army and navy-inspirations were also weaved into this collection.

Prada Catwalk Fashion Show Milan FW2012

Again, powerdressing was the theme of a collection. And what a collection. Miuccia Prada said goodbye to all the cheerful bold colors and prints of last season and embraced the powerful men. To the press she described the collection as a riff on powerful men, and how fashion can telegraph authority, might or supremacy. Clothing is a tool of power and a way to express male vanity, she said. Yes, we knew that already.

Dressed in severe coats reminding of Eastern Bloc military dress, the models and actors Willem Dafoe, Tim Roth, Adrien Brody and Gary Oldman walked a massive, carpeted space. The first outfit set a military tone: a smart dark coat over a white turtleneck, slim pants and gleaming dress shoes. Belted coats in lightweight wool played a major part and they were often decorated with badges over the heart. Colors were of course a bit off beat, mustard, purple, grey and black – and the fabrics looked vintage.

Check out the video of the show below.

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