Giorgio Armani Catwalk Fashion Show Milan FW2011

The name of the Giorgio Armani fall collection was Boudoir. Maybe because of the powdery pink colors? The fluffy furs? The dreamy dresses? Anyway, the master redefined the trousers by cutting them off at the ankle and giving the room to sway. Skirts were long and flowing, dresses skimmed the figure, fluid as water, and the Armani-suit got an update: buttons at the back instead of the front.

Soft pinks were a constant, together with black , gray and brown. Every single fabric was the product of research said the program-notes: satins that seem to meld into the skin, siks, velvets and chiffon that float like a trail of perfume.

DSquared Catwalk Fashion Show Milan FW2011

The fall-collection Dean and Dan Caten sent oput this morning was the same theme their menscollection had: early American settlers mixed with tough biker chic. The basis: ultra tight jeans, leather bikerjackets or jackets with pouf peaked shoulders and nipped in the waist, white shirts, long coats and lace up boots set on iron-blades, ice-skating style.  There were also bustier tops, floor-sweeping leather dusters,  plaid hotpants, fringed blankets worn as capes or wraps and massive fur coats.

It was the styling that brought panache at the show and the collection, leaving that all behind what’s left is a jeans, a jacket and a shirt. Nothing new really.

First View Milan FW2011: Shine

The Shine-theme is about all that shines, from metallic armors to shimmery diaphanous layers. Who thought we would be dipped in sobriety for another season was wrong. Though there are still restrained looks and  calm understatement plus loads of minimalistic shapes, some designers have clearly found a route to escape.

It is far easier to diversify and stand out in more expressive and new materials then when having to dig deep into total simple and soberness. So we welcome the sequins, high sheen silks, lurex metal shine and slick skin looks. Plus high tech coatings or big translucent scales layer plain colour and print.

Stylespot is a collaboration with Stijlinstituut Amsterdam

Aquilano.Rimondi Catwalk Fashion Show Milan FW2011

Tommaso Aquilano and Roberto Rimondi were inspired by Dutch artist Piet Mondrian for their own collection, which was all about straight lines.

But the design duo kept away from the YSL-way of interpreting the Mondrian-theme, instead they only used the gridlines on the flapper-style dresses made from velvet and lurex, some embellished with geometric bead embroidery or ostrich feathers.  Rich coats were made from boiled wool and interwoven with contrasting strips of satin. Colorwise Aquilano and Rimondi fell for burnished shades of copper and sienna plus lemon, orange and lime.

Streetfashion Milan Womenswear FW2011

What are you wearing during the coming fashionweeks? Your Prada-shoes, your latest Jil Sander-dress or that vintage Yves St. Laurent? Maybe we’ll spot you in Paris, Milan, New York or Amsterdam. During the fashionweeks we refresh our streetwear posts regularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style. Next stop: Milan Fashion Week.

Missoni Catwalk Fashion Show Milan FW2011

Angela Missoni went for soft colors for fall 2011 and a slouchy, fluid silhouette.

Please enjoy the pictures for now, our report will follow soon.

Versus Catwalk Fashion Show Milan FW2011

Christopher Kane presented his second collection for Versus this afternoon in a packed venue. Stand outs were the shiny prints and shoes with purple heels and platforms.

Please enjoy the pictures for now, our report will follow soon.

Dolce & Gabbana Catwalk Fashion Show Milan FW2011

It always makes a nice picture when designers use the differences and opposites in men’s clothes wear and women’s in their collection. Dolce & Gabbana used all the elements of masculine and feminine dressing in one collection. Black, grey and white were the main colors for both sexes, while yellow, pink, blue, gold and silver added energy. The masculine part of the collection contained slim cut tailored jackets and overcoats, lower-rise pants with slimmed down leg at calf. But also tuxedo shirts or shirts with large collars, jackets with cut off sleeves, vest jackets and vests. For evening coats and jackets were cut in lace, paillettes, herringbone and had with embroidered lapels.

The feminine part was all about body-hugging shapes, loose chiffon printed dresses with star motifs or musical notes, lace, paillettes, jewelled embroidery and touches of fur.

The result was an energetic collection, thanks to the music and colorful, shiny accessories, but it didn’t reach the high level of the anniversary-collections the designduo presented the last two season, where they focused at the quality of their  fabrics and design. This collection sometimes reminded too much of their second line.

Pucci Catwalk Fashion Show Milan FW2011

Peter Dundas presented his first Pucci-menswear yesterday during his women’s fallshow. Not really exciting stuff, so most attention went to the women’s clothes. For Fall he’s got inspired by a long list of topics: hunters,  Tyrol, winter palaces, Romy Schneider as Sissi and  Victoire de Castellane, the designer of Dior’s haute joaillerie.
The bust was the center point of the collection, Dundas framed it with corseted hourglass dresses that had long sleeves and a little collar or a bow at the neckline.  These came in all manner of materials, from practically humble loden wool to sumptuous black velvet embellished with crystals arrayed in diamond patterns, as well as in the familiar Pucci prints.

Marni Catwalk Fashion Show Milan FW2011

The fall-collection Marni sent out this morning was completely different from the sporty, vibrating and colorful collection that’s in the stores for spring. And yet, typical Marni, thanks to the motifs, color-choices, chunky shoes and jewelry. The overall look felt vintage with a very modern and contemporary touch.

The shape was rigorous: strict yet softened around the edges. The tone is graphic, dry, non-romantic: juxtapositions of colors and textures give garments a constructivist feel. Straight lines and dense fabrics defined a new dialogue between clothing and body, but the underlying message was definitely feminine.

The silhouette is lean and coherent, with rounded shoulders and hemlines that stop right below the knee. The garments encase the body as they were soft cocoons. Bonded leather coats have an architectonic purity, while furs add a tactile element through intarsia patterns and unexpected tonal combinations. Fabrics had an intense, tactile hand: double-faced wool crepe; wool fil bouclè; bonded lurex knit; knitted wool felt; bonded leather.
The palette was precious and strict, with slight ruptures: tones of black, cream, midnight blue and jade green are accented with flashes of yellow, pink, coral and inky purple.

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