Missoni Catwalk Fashion Show Milan FW2010

Again Angela Missoni presented a collection full of lusciously layers, this time – according to the shownotes- inspired by ‘Africa meets Scotland, folk meets punk’ .

It was a cocktail of patchwork skirts, tweed shorts, cropped sweaters draped at the back, thick pullovers and wrap-coats. Cozy tartans met tribal patterned knits, here and there deconstrcuted and accessorized to Masai effect.

Colors were wonderful, different tones of brown, black and gray met with more brighter colors as lightblue, red and green. Silver and metallics added some light and glamor. Shoes were in matching fabrics and colors.

Streetfashion Milan FW2010 Day 4

What are you wearing during the coming fashionweeks? Your Balenciaga-heels, your latest Marni-dress or that vintage YSL? Maybe we’ll spot you in Paris, Milan, New York or Amsterdam. During the fashionweeks we refresh our streetwear posts regularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style. Next stop: Milan.

Dolce & Gabbana Catwalk Fashion Show Milan FW2010

The Dolce & Gabbana fashion show started with a short (black & white) film in which we saw Domenico and Stefano working in their atelier. We watched them putting their first designs together and saw how they put them on on some models. We could see the joy in their eyes as they slowly created several gorgeous designs, of course with a little help. Actually, all of the atelier’s employees were introduced in the film. In their long, clean, white jackets they smiled at the camera as the first models came up.

The fall/winter collection was built around three themes: Sicilianita’, sartorialita’ and sensualita’. They were reflected in several ways:

1. Domenico and Stefano (after 25 years) went back to their Sicilian roots (Sicilianita’).

2. The clothes represented Dolce & Gabbana’s signature tailoring (sartorialita’).

3. The models looked very feminine and sensual in the lingerie-inspired designs (sensualita’).

We listened to the Moulin Rouge soundtrack ‘Come what may’ as the first models quickly passed in some black tailored jackets combined with short pants and lace dresses. When a few corsets were introduced, we were sure: the lingerie-influences from last summer were back.

The models all wore gold accessories. Some of the clothes were decorated with lots of golden coins. And the ‘new women’, as Stefano Gabbana put it, carried an I-pod with golden earphones.

All girls  looked very lady-like. Though the double breasted jackets might have looked a little masculine, they were executed in a soft and feminine way. The fabrics: lace, silk and satin added to the sensual feeling of the collection.

Leopard prints, polka dots and floral prints combined beautifully with the black of the collection. Like in the summer collection those different prints were matched in one look. It looked stunning.

During the finale 75 models came onto the runway, dressed in fitted black jackets combined with shorts and small dresses.

The show made us shiver and, as we heard, it made the people backstage shed a few tears.

Emilio Pucci Catwalk Fashion Show Milan FW2010

It’s Peter Dundas’ third season at Pucci and he has taken the label to a darker, more risky place. In a season where designers go for minimalism and a structured ladylike silhouette, he presented a sexy collection with a bohemian touch and lots of red-carpet potential.

Dundas opened the show with a long purple jersey dress in a houseprint from the Pucci-archives, but he dip-dyed it in purple. This set the tone for the rest of the collection with ultra, ultrashort dresses – even the models were complaining about it – fringed scarf-dresses and big feather details. New were the tailored jackets in strong, clean lines. They were mixed with high waisted, suede flares. Eveningwear was pure glamor: long dresses with plunging necklines or minidresss with gold lace inserts and high slits.

Marni Catwalk Fashion Show Milan FW2010

It’s always a surprise which direction the Marni-collection goes. Bohemian, more severe, vintage luxury? For next fall the designer Consuela Castiglione brings light and the optimism of spring to the stores. Not only because of the slightly faded colors – tabac, pink, red, yellow and green – also for the 3/4 pants, bermudas and T-shirts with prints done by the artist Gary Hume.

The overall character of the collection was ladylike, with hourglass cut, stiff skirtsuits, sleeveless jackets and dresses. A small pleated, separate apron added  hips and shape to the silhouette. The colors, metallic details, mosaic prints and treated fabrics  – laminated, transparent, dense, inside out, unfinished –  added a contemporary  elegance tot the clothes.

The shoes and boots- in perforated leather and ponyskin – were tough and modern, the bags elegant and with a modern classic character. And of course the accessories were to die for, big chunky necklaces in matching colors were the finishing touch.

Streetfashion Milan FW2010 Day 3

What are you wearing during the coming fashionweeks? Your Balenciaga-heels, your latest Marni-dress or that vintage YSL? Maybe we’ll spot you in Paris, Milan, New York or Amsterdam. During the fashionweeks we refresh our streetwear posts regularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style. Next stop: Milan.

Gucci Catwalk Fashion Show Milan FW2010

This was one of the most simple, easy and safe Gucci-collections I’ve seen in years. No real focus at bags – a few totes, croco shoulderbags and clutches – thigh high boots and high heels. The silhouet was pretty straight, sometimes bodyhugging. Short dresses in white, black and gray showed flashes of skin and were pimped up with silver details at wrists, neck or waist.Other dresses were more draped and had a painterly prints.

Pants were Gucci-like: slim, low at the waist and mixed with short (fur)jackets, silk tunics or a printed shirts. Big 70’s inspired coats in camel were eyecatching. This is what Gucci is known for, but I was hoping for a little bit more firework and inspiring ideas. The eveningwear though had just that extra elegance and sexappeal, great for a red carpet-moment instead of those big in your face gowns. Hopefully Rachel Zoe will be inspired, she was sitting frontrow at Gucci.

Etro Catwalk Fashion Show Milan FW2010

A Wunderkammer perfumed with amber and absinthe, that was the startingpoint of Etro’s collection. The result was a collection with sensual, oriental influences and the somewhat rounded silhouet of Paul Poiret. Kimono-dresses, layering, satin, new style paisleys and neo-colonial dressing.

Male and female, plain and printed melted in the same look. Mini-robes draped over the double breasted blazer were teamed with harempants, furcoats and cocktail frocks became cardigans. Colors were vibrant with the shades of semi-precious stones: emerald, jade, amber.

The eveningwear was sensual and bodyhugging: satin dresses with samurai-dragons at the back or draped with prints like tattoo’s.

Bottega Veneta Catwalk Fashion Show Milan FW2010

This was a different collection at Bottega Veneta. Tomas Maier switched the nonchalant chic for tough, black leather and over-designed pieces. No more sweet, simple dresses in light colors, but rather severe looking dresses in black wool, leather or mixed worn with high boots and triangle-shaped bags. There was even a loosefitting, draped overall in black.

The Bottega Veneta collections used to have a certain edge, colorwise, in shape or in the use of fabric. The fw-collections looked a little bit dreary though. But that doen’t mean there was nothing we loved:  the fluid looking dresses in purple and gray, the coats in shiny techno-fabrics, the eveningdresses in pleated, sheer organza, the pantsuit with green metallic shoes and the pink leather pants with lighter colored shirt.

Streetfashion Milan FW2010 Day 2

What are you wearing during the coming fashionweeks? Your Balenciaga-heels, your latest Marni-dress or that vintage YSL? Maybe we’ll spot you in Paris, Milan, New York or Amsterdam. During the fashionweeks we refresh our streetwear posts regularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style. Next stop: Milan.

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