Maison Martin Margiela Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2010

That was a good old Margiela-show: held in an empty industrial complex, seated in second hand chairs, drinking cheap wine and watching a collection with all the elements Margiela is known for. Mixing expectations, menswear and womenswear, exaggeration and extreme tailoring.

The pressrelease called it A new definition of the men’s wardrobe’ and ‘Menswear morphs into womenswear’. The result was a pretty sophisticated collection, with precise cut and impeccable finishing.

Sleeves of perfect cut jackets were blown up, waistlines of skirts and pants were floating as if the model had no waist and hips. Instead it gave her the straight silhouette of a man. Silk chiffon layers suggested lightness and distinction, especially when worn with rough knitted wool cardigans or big furry jackets and hats.

Typical men’s artefacts were blown up to become women’s jewellery: cufflinks turned into bracelets and rings, watchbands became maxi-belts, keyrings changed into necklaces. And the famous white Margiela box morphed into a new clutch-box.

It was good to see the team behind the Maison is back on the track after the designer Martin Margiela left. Although the concept of the show looked familiar. Let’s hope they will get ahead of us soon.

Lanvin Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2010

You can see in every detail of Alber Elbaz’ designs for Lanvin that he loves his job, but – above all – that he loves women and that he understands their way of dealing with clothes. No difficult shapes or silhouettes, but flattering dresses, sporty & elegant jumpsuits and classy but also modern skirtsuits. His fall winter collection was inspired by tribal cultures, it was in the dark and earthy colors, the accessories, the feathers and furry details, the black hair and in the shoes.

Elbaz doesn’t dictate his clients what to wear, he suggests and gives them the freedom to add big, chunky accessories and ultra high heels. He gives them the tools, like fierce dresses with ultra-wide coat-shoulders, dresses with one arm cut-away in red and pine-green, big coats, pleated skirts and a sensual suits – the women make it their own.

Maybe that’s why the stage – a stairway to heaven – was so symbolic. Once you wear a Lanvin, it really feels like heaven.

Christian Dior Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2010

The fall/wintercollection of Christian Dior was a polished version of the haute coutureshow, where the Libertines were John Galliano’s inspiration. Again tough riding-clothes were mixed with more romantic dresses, tops and skirts. It was a well done clash of the historical masculine and feminine, something John Galliano likes the most.The result was sensual and sophisticated without screaming too loud.

He opened the show with a brown leather coat over a ruffled, chiffon dress- romantic at its best. But there were also tailored coats, ruffled dresses in perforated leather, checked jackets and jodhpurs. This seasons hot items – the big knitted sweater and cardigan – were also present, yet with sensual, lingerie-like details like ribbons and lace.

Streetfashion Paris FW2010 Day 2

What are you wearing during the coming fashionweeks? Your Balenciaga-heels, your latest Marni-dress or that vintage YSL? Maybe we’ll spot you in Paris, Milan, New York or Amsterdam. During the fashionweeks we refresh our streetwear posts regularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style. Next stop: Paris.

Rick Owens Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2010

With their hair combed backwards and their black (mean) eyes Rick Owens’ models looked like a tribe of wild, powerful women. Their asymmetrical clothes had the most unusual shapes. Some of the garments even seemed to exist of only a thick blanket in some way sewn to make it wearable.

The show felt dark in many ways. The runway was hardly lighted, the models wore dark make-up and, as always with Owens, the clothes had a very dark edge to them. Yet we must say it was pleasant to see some earthy shades of green, gray and brown, in stead of all the black we saw last season. Owens even used a splash of metallic in some of his designs.

His materials varied from fur to wool and leather. Most of the leather jackets had eye-catching standing collars, which made the models look even tougher.

A combination of a long waistcoat and a hoodie was repeated throughout the show several times. It came by in a gold/beige metallic version and in fur and leather. One of them had geometric patterns all over it. Those patterns and the zigzag leggings felt pretty renewing for Rick Owens.

Many of the clothes were decorated with small pointy pieces of (what looked like) plastic. The small hooks with which they were attached were clearly visible.

The models wore wedge boots and remarkable gloves with fur details. Their big leather belts made them look extra powerful.

So all though ladies will have to make their way to the Rick Owens store next season. Let’s see if they can make those tribal designs work without the crazy hair and make-up from the show.

Rochas Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2010

The Goldie Hawn movie ‘Cactus Flower’ from 1969 was the inspiration for Marco Zaninin’s third collection for Rochas. And so we could tell. Most of the outfits could have come straight from Goldie’s wardrobe for that movie..

The clothes were colorful, very retro and as Zanini put it himself: ‘smiley and joyful’. Every look, with unexpected combinations of shades and fabrics, made us more excited.  And suddenly a turquoise skirt, a yellow lace top, a gray coat, a purple ribbon bow and deep red gloves didn’t look all that bad together. Woolen cardigans with elbow patches formed a good mix with small belts and long gloves as well.

Everything had a great sixties/seventies vibe:

The golden lame, used for some pants, dresses, skirts and tunics.
The pink, brown and beige color combinations.
The ruffled collars and wide sleeves.
The metallic fabrics.
The pant suits
The tunics
The cropped pants.
And not to mention the model’s big hairdo’s!

This Rochas collection might have been very diverse, yet Zanini’s craftsmanship held all pieces together perfectly.

Streetfashion Paris FW2010 Day 1

What are you wearing during the coming fashionweeks? Your Balenciaga-heels, your latest Marni-dress or that vintage YSL? Maybe we’ll spot you in Paris, Milan, New York or Amsterdam. During the fashionweeks we refresh our streetwear posts regularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style. Next stop: Paris.

Dries van Noten Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2010

It was a different setting and a different collection at Dries van Noten. Especially after his colorful mix & match of east & west this spring, and the show he held in an empty and  stripped bank. His casual/elegant fall/winter collection was presented in one of the gilded salons of the Hotel de Ville. Malcolm Mclaren did the soundtrack: sweet and classical with angry singing.

Army green became elegant and feminine when used in tailored skirts, pants and sleeveless trench-like coats. Gray popped up in tailored jackets, big sweaters and dresses. The hourglass silhouette was also present here, thanks to the  full skirts.

The realist floral prints (in red, blue and green), men’s inspired jackets and animal prints gave it just that rebel feeling. But also because it looked like these women just put their outfit together without thinking too much about the effect and result. This was how they felt and how sthey wanted to look.

Beautiful. Casual. Sensual. Original. Femine.

Versus Catwalk Fashion Show Milan FW2010

Skirts like cupcakes, that’s the best way to describe the stiff  pleated miniskirts Christopher Kane created for his second Versus-collection. It is amazing to see how well the British designer is reviving Gianni Versace’s heyday style. The young, strong but sexy look is still there, but the styling, colors and textiles are modern and very now.

Dresses had that slightly fetish look, but the skirts were playful mixed with T-shirts printed with old Bruce Weber for Versace photos and fluffy cardigans. Colors moved from peacock blue and plum to red, navy and black.

Roberto Cavalli Catwalk Fashion Show Milan FW2010

It was a every inch a very decadent show at Roberto Cavalli. But decadency is part of the house’s dna. And like more designers in Milan, Cavalli celebrated his roots (he’s 40 years in business no, and yes the guy is 70) and went back to the early days when he was designing for the happy, hippie few.

Cavalli’s fw2010 collection was  shaped around the rich hippie, bohemian look of his early days in the seventies. Lots of harem pants, draped dresses in tulle, long floorsweeping dresses, brocaded military coats, jackets in studded leather, faded animal-prints and embroideries all over. Colors were dark and rich (black, white, gray, red), the styling was mix & match.

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