Jan Taminiau Amsterdam Fashion Week fw2010

Jan Taminiau’s day couldn’t be better.  In the afternoon he heard Vogue Italia was interested in his collection and in the evening he gave a spectacular fashion show.

The fall/winter collection he presented was shiny and sparkly and the clothes had some amazing shapes and silhouettes.

He used gold, light blue, pink and nudes for his designs. His creations had ruffles, sequins and fans. They had a lot of volume and the shoulders were accentuated in many different ways.

The models wore matching headbands/scarfs and walked in super high shoes (without heels). They showed some crazy poses at the end of the runway.

The last two dresses of Jan Taminiau’s show both had big veils. His show ended with his muse wearing an ivory colored wedding dress.

The reactions from the audience were very positive and now we’ve seen the whole show we really understand why Vogue is so interested. Congrats on a great show Jan!

Come back of Thimister

Josephus Thimister (47), from Dutch origins and an promising talent of the Belgian school in the late nineties –  made a come back last sunday with a self financed haute couture collection.

Bloodshed and militairia were the two themes he wove into his haute couturecollection for fall 2010. Thimister took his inspiration from a photograph of Tsarevich Alexei Nikolaevich, Emperor Nicholas II’s murdered 13-year-old son, who was routinely dressed in uniform as a boy. The result was a collection men’s and womenswear mixing romanticism (in red, white, army-green) with a raw-edged minimalism: tank tops and jodhpurs splattered with fake-blood, officer’s jackets, narrow dresses, army cats and jumpsuits. Thimister told style.com he’d used resonances from World War I because “what happened then was the start of modernism: war, sorrow, destruction we’re still dealing with now. And the lack of creativity and spirituality”.

Do you want to know more about Thimister? Read this interview at style.com: www.style.com/stylefile/2009/12/josephus-thimister-has-nothing-to-lose/

Streetfashion Paris fw2010

What are you wearing during the Menswear Fashionweek? Your Burberry-boots, your latest D&G-vest or that vintage YSL? Maybe we’ll spot you in Paris, Milan, New York or Amsterdam. During the fashion-weeks we refresh our streetwear-category regularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style. Next stop: Paris.

Pictures: Muriel Schouten

Paris Catwalk Fashion Show fw2010: Paul Smith

Looking at the diverse types of models that walked in Paul Smith’s fashion show, you’d think he must have wanted to reach a large audience. The models were as different as they could be:  young, old, pale, bold, long, bearded, red-haired etc.

The clothes were just as diverse. Shirts with floral prints, checked jackets, colorful trousers and bowler hats were easily combined in one look. And while some clothes were appropriate for punky students other seemed perfect for late night dinners.

In this collection Paul Smith mixed natural colors like brown, gray and beige with bright ones like pink, blue, red and purple.

A few jackets had decorated safety pins attached and we saw sunglasses in some of the breast pockets.

Items that really caught our eye were a black poncho, a long cobalt blue overcoat and a turquoise colored suit. The show ended with some slick black dinner jackets.

Then Paul Smith and all his models came on to the runway in a chaotic manner that matched the fashion show’s overall vibe.

Streetfashion Paris fw2010

What are you wearing during the Menswear Fashionweek? Your Burberry-boots, your latest D&G-vest or that vintage YSL? Maybe we’ll spot you in Paris, Milan, New York or Amsterdam. During the fashion-weeks we refresh our streetwear-category regularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style. Next stop: Paris.

Pictures by Muriel Schouten

Paris Catwalk Fashion Show fw2010: Lanvin

If I were a man I would wear Lanvin. The clothes are modern yet friendly, soft but tough enough and extremely normal. It’s not only the quality of the fabrics, first of all it’s the quality of design. And Lucas Ossendrijver has a great talent.

This season Lanvin looks tougher and more out-in-the-world with dark wools, raw-edge seams, some belted coats that lent a military feeling. The strappy backpack added a contemporary, city-warrior touch.

Ossendrijver went away from the too soft and poetic style, but still he was able to put emotion (a certain awareness of vulnerability) into the clothes. All this season’s trends were in the collection, done in a Lanvin-way: beautiful shoes that seem boots, the layering, the leather coats, the fluid silhouette, the grays and blacks.

Paris Catwalk Fashion Show fw2010: Raf Simons

After two seasons of modern suits with that typical Belgian edge, Raf Simons pushed again the boundaries of menswear. He already played the game of closures at his collection for Jil Sander (with mixed results), but it worked out much better for his own fall collection. Still suits form the center part (but as the designer said earlier: he and his clients are grown up men now), Raf still favors dark colors, but he replaced the buttons with metallic magnetic closures and velcro strips which made a pretty tight silhouette and clean image.  Simons also re-made the traditional trench by separating the coat into halfs and using the lower half as a skirt or protective shield. Besides that he played an interesting graphic game with red, white and blue.

Paris Catwalk Fashion Show fw2010: Hermès

For next winter Veronique Nichanian designed a qualitative and diversified menswear collection for Hermès. Just like many desigers Veronique opted for gray as the main color. Though she added some red, blue, green and black.

The Hermès models were well-dressed and much attention was paid to every little detail. From the floral scarfs to the handkerchiefs in the breast-pockets and the chains attached to the trousers.

The collection had velours jackets, turtle necks, woolly cardigans, leather pants and jackets with zippers that were only zipped in the middle.

Over a few coats the models wore a sophisticated leather belt and their large scarfs were tied in a particular way. Two snake leather jackets were real showpieces.

Altogether it was a solid collection with very wearable designs.

Paris Catwalk Fashion Show fw2010: Kenzo

With the fw2010 fashion show Antonio Marras proved that after forty years of fashion Kenzo is still on top of the game.

The show started off with models dressed in warm-colored clothes, perfect for fall. A lot of woolly designs were shown. We also saw many checks, long overcoats, sunglasses, hats and some floral prints.

Then the clothes turned gray. At first the gray was combined with leopard printed gloves, shoes and bags. A leopard printed coat definitely stood out, yet not necessarily in a good way.
Other eye-catching pieces were a denim overall and a shiny hounds-tooth coat.

Marras designed many loose-fitting clothes. Especially his pants were much wider than the pants we saw at other fashion shows.

Towards the end all models headed outside for the show’s finale. There Place des Victoires was transformed into a film set, inspired by the movie Traffic (1971). Thirty vintage Citroën cars were driving around in the same direction as the models were walking. An old bus was picking them up.

What a great finale!

Paris Catwalk Fashion Show fw2010: Dior Homme

Sisters of Mercy’s ‘Temple of Love’  reverberated through the dark, cavernous hall where the Dior Homme-show took place. The set was spread with chunks of coal — a reminder of the kind of warm, smoldering color designer Kris van Assche  had in mind while designing the collection.

Floor sweeping trenchcoats,  hooded robes and cropped suits with boots dominated the collection. Innovative variations on the classic suit, which van Assche slashed and distorted, giving it new proportions and a faux Amish Country silhouette. Luxury, creativity and comfort were the guiding principles of this fall-winter 2010 menswear collection.
Working in a reduced palette of black, charcoal and oatmeal, the Belgian designer served up oversized jackets with long, fluttering front panels that tapered into dangly V-shapes, pairing them with generously cut cropped pants. Some of the jackets were fitted with trompe l’oeil flaps on one side, while others had lapels that morphed into scarves.

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