Marni Catwalk Fashion Show Milan Womenswear FW2016

How we love a Sunday Milan Fashion Week morning, starting our fashion filled day with Marni. Today the show got us in an extra good mood. One glance at it’s first look and we already knew; this is going to be a hit collection. Old Hollywood glam wrapped in a series of contemporary looks made us both feel nostalgic as well as super excited for next fashion season. Shape (round proportions), color and material (compact, stiff) in the ultimate mix; this was modern elegance at it’s best. High waisted pants were paired with old school V-neck sweaters. There were suede skirts worn with blouses that had XL sleeves and cuffs. Tweed pants were matched with sporty cropped jackets. All given the ultimate Marni touch by added Xl sequins, pockets, buttons, belts and double collars. Oh and let’s not forget about those earrings. Floral prints and checks worked beautifully with the warm color palette. A dress and a co-ord had touches of navy colored velvet swirly layering on them. As sparkly chunky embroideries gave the finale’s little black dress a splendid Marni make-over. All remarkable, original rich yet simplistic looks that turned out even stronger thanks to the 40s inspired make-up, Consuelo Castiglioni chose to accompany her designs. A classic Hollywood look of pale skin, intense brown colored lips and wavy hair given a mysterious contemporary twist.

Now how was your Sunday morning?

Trend Report FW2016: Disco a Go Go

The eighties are reviving and so is the disco dress code that flourished at that time. Which basically means we can all get a little crazy and make our outfit a new wave party in itself. Cause with disco glam there is no such thing as too many sequins. The sparklier your dress, the better (same counts for short and tight). Take note from Peter Dundas’ Pucci designs or Hedi Slimane’s creations. Follow the sparkly lead of Blumarine and Loewe. Or go bold with colorful metallics as seen at Versace, Rodarte and Balmain. Statement waist belts and accentuated shoulders, chokers and XL earrings (or just 1 in 1 ear) add to the eighties retro feeling as hair, make-up are your tools to keep things fresh and modern underneath that disco ball. Most important: don’t hold back. “Eat glitter for breakfast and shine all day”

Jean Paul Gaultier Catwalk Fashion Show FW2012

Tough, funky, crazy, grungy, four words to describe the Jean Paul Gaultier that was a little bit of everything. The French artist showed suits, leather jacket, lots of coats and some evening dressed.

Dark leather looks were followed by bright animal details (snake prints and fur) and later changed into metallic velvet pieces. All looks were very much layered. And the strangest clothing combinations popped up. Like a leather jacket worn over a suit, a parka combined with a LBD and his beloved trench coat turned into a skirt.

The collection felt young, indicated by the models duo colored hair, graffiti printed outfits and in your face fur. On the catwalk looks might seem a little over the top, but if you leave out the crazy JPG styling you’ll end up with some great, quite wearable show stopping pieces.

 

 

An Anna dello Russo moment at Marc Jacobs

Jean Paul Gaultier Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2010

At JPG’s fashion show influences from many different countries wore used in the designs. We got a taste of Africa, Russia, India and Mexico. The styles from those countries were represented by extravagant headwear and folklore designs. There seemed to be so many different influences, it was hard to tell which country they belonged to.

Colorful African turbans were combined with satin dresses with chinoiserie prints. Black trenchcoats or fur coats were worn on top. There were colorful printed headscarves, fur hats and metallic Indian headpieces.

The models wore Masai necklaces combined with Western motorcycle jackets. They walked in harem pants with fur waistcoats. Their neon colored leggings heavily clashed with the folklore prints on their clothes. But it was all part of JPG’s cultural fashion explosion. Words can not even describe how wacky it all looked.

While the clothes varied in almost every aspect (shape, size, fabric, color) not much was to say about the collection in general. Apart from the fact that it was a cultural melting pot.

Between all influences JPG’s famous cone bra popped up every now and then. Though we loved watching the crazy styled outfits, the coats were the best pieces of the collection.

And the message of this show might just have been about embracing the cultural differences in the world and turning them into something of your own. At least we think that would be a nice approach.

Nina Ricci Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2010

For the first time since Olivier Theyskens had left Nina Ricci the brand was on the official schedule of the Paris Fashion Week. That must have been a relief for Peter Copping.

With his second Nina Ricci collection he wanted to ‘appeal and relate to different types of women’, he said. Yet the ladies we encountered at his show were not that diverse. In their below the knee dresses they all looked like sophisticated, up-town girls.

The fall collection, inspired by the Belle Epoque/Bausch had the same romantic feeling as the Ricci spring collection, though there was more contrast visible this time. Woollen coats were combined with airy transparent tops. Tulle and leather were mixed in several looks as well.

Many outfits were decorated with flowers and had feminine details like ruffles, pleats and lace. It all looked very graceful. Still the flowers were a bit overwhelming on some dresses.

The final dresses were, apart from some cutouts and transparent parts, very winterproof. They touched the floor and were worn with large overcoats of the same length. Those dresses and coats surely will have to be shortened for the average women, cause even the feet of the tall models were not visible any longer.

Some say Copping still has to learn how to let his own voice speak after many years at Louis Vuitton. But we think he already did a good job. Some of the long dresses might just end up being worn at the Oscars this weekend.

Jason Wu Catwalk Fashion Show New York FW2010

Everybody talked about Jason Wu’s inspiration, photographer Irving Penn, but you better ignore that. The designer just wanted to do something different than the princess-like clothes he’s famous for thanks to Michele Obama. So Wu took a good look at menswear – that’s where the personal style of Penn comes along – and morphed influences into pretty womenswear with a mannish touch. He presented short sleeved jackets, oversized cashmere coats,  mohair sweaters and fold-over pants. The overall look had an appealing, relaxed sensibility. Grey, black, white and blue were the main colors with splashes of mustard, orange, yellow, golden and green.

In the end Wu just couldn’t resist to design a few real princess-dresses, just for the fun of it. I’m sure a few of those will return sooner or later at the White House or some red-carpet event.

Milan Catwalk Fashion Show fw2010: Dolce & Gabbana

Ennio  Morricone’s music added that special drama to the Dolce & Gabbana-show, which was a tribute to Giuseppe Tornatore’s new movie Baaria – nominated for this years Oscars. The collection seemed also a tribute to the label itself, which celebrates it’s 20-th anniversary this year. And that means heritage Sicilian workwear in black and white, lot’s of grey, dirty jeans and shoes, destroyed knits, tight T-shirts and old fashioned underwear. The longjohn is definitively back as a fashion-item. As is the laced up armyboot.

Christian Lacroix Haute Couture Catwalk Fashion Show FW09

It was an haute coutureshow full of emotion, a collection produced on a shoestring and only made possible by the collective will and donated time and skills of the seamstresses, embroiderers, jewelers, milliners and shoemakers loyal to Christian Lacroix. Only the models were paid, €50 each according to French law, but they ended up in tears too. Lacroix didn’t cry, he said he wants to continue, maybe in a different way, with a smaller atelier. Het just cares about the women who do the job for him. The collection was sober and restraint, only in black and midnight blue and concentrated on shape and wearability. In al its purity it showed Lacroix’ craftsmanship. As the designer came out to lead he bride in the finale, the whole audience stood up to honour him. Bravo!

Prada Catwalk Show

Style: the new sexy. Colors: black, nude, flashes of orange, red, blue. Fabric: lace. Accessories: separate collars, ultra high heels, handbags in leather & lace, plastic necklaces. Make up: au naturel, strong eyebrows.

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