First View Milan FW2011: Shine

The Shine-theme is about all that shines, from metallic armors to shimmery diaphanous layers. Who thought we would be dipped in sobriety for another season was wrong. Though there are still restrained looks and  calm understatement plus loads of minimalistic shapes, some designers have clearly found a route to escape.

It is far easier to diversify and stand out in more expressive and new materials then when having to dig deep into total simple and soberness. So we welcome the sequins, high sheen silks, lurex metal shine and slick skin looks. Plus high tech coatings or big translucent scales layer plain colour and print.

Stylespot is a collaboration with Stijlinstituut Amsterdam

First View Milan FW2011: Mod Now

A modern Mod-look was clearly reminiscent and very much fashion on Milan runways. Prada was brave, prim and square cut, with strong statements in shades with a faint Marni flavor. Graphic details as contrasting trims, patterns, insets, and wide, low-slung belts. The dense and sculptural fabrics reminded us of 60’s Mod looks.

Alberta Ferretti softened her silhouettes with shimmery velvet legs. Where Prada dropped the waist, Max Mara contoured it. Worlds apart, yet showing clear common interest in bold statements.

This is definitely a look to watch; adult women dressed like dolls, yet definitely not to play with.

Stylespot is a collaboration with Stijlinstituut Amsterdam

First View New York FW2011: Longer Lengths

Skirts swing long and gentle on the runways in New York. Well over the knees and in some cases even covering the ankles. Fluid layers, with tulle, trimmed slits and colourful ribbons. It’s dressed up elegance all over the place, reminiscent in most cases yet with lots of refreshing personal twists.

BCBG lowers the waist, where Rodarte contours. Hilfiger goes liquid, where Marc Jacobs sculptures in modern tech materials. Nothing boring about long skirts, as long as they are embellished with elaborate crafted details, layered in mixed translucence or just made in plain yet lovely materials.

Stylespot is a collaboration with Stijlinstituut Amsterdam

First View New York FW2011: Strict Lace

Retro revenge with a leading role for lace. Who mentioned retro was passé and that it is time to look ahead? There is no future without history though.

This retro-style looks truly inspiring and stunning in a lovely mixture of fabrics. Sober suiting, chaste high-collared blouses in pretty patterns and prints and lots of super positioned lace. The silhouettes are stern yet graceful, severe yet curvaceous. Where Prada fancied the 50’s for previous winter, Vuitton touched the frivolous edges of the 20’s and 30’s for summer. Now both Jason Wu and Marc Jacobs confirm this perpetual fancy for retro, both framing their looks in lace.

Stylespot is a collaboration with Stijlinstituut Amsterdam

First View New York FW2011: Mix Mash

It sure is a happy start of Stijlinstituut Amsterdam Stylespot. New York Fashion Week presented us during the first days a hyper-color riot of mixed expressive prints, contrasting textures and various techniques. And that’s quite a new trend we spotted.

Where Preen shows it modern and tech, Libertine goes for a more poetic spirit, Ragbone takes the craft route where Thakoon and DKNY go graphic and regimental. These combined patterns and colors in gentle conflict give a new creative and upbeat flavor to the season and offer a great inspiration for upcoming fashion developments.

It underlines the growing interest in creative crafts and techniques and expresses brave optimism.

Stylespot is a collaboration with Stijlinstituut Amsterdam

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