Marni Fashion Show Milan Womenswear SS2016

On Sunday morning Consuelo Castiglione sure woke us up with his poppy mix of all things Marni presented to the tunes of Nina Simone’s ‘Baltimore’. For spring/summer his primary colored designs seemed bolt in every way. Shades, silhouettes, proportions, detailing and styling; it was all a lot, yet never too much for Marni. Asymmetric color block looks followed each other up on the runway. Bright turtle neck worn underneath tunics and boxy jackets paired with ultra wide flares. Leave printed tunic co-ords, shiny jackets with rounded, tucked up sleeves and a series of silky black evening numbers. Sequins, loose straps, mesh details; all the SS2016 trends we spotted before (at NYFW) were there, but magnified for Marni. Eye catching earrings, statement sunnies,multiple bangles, exaggerated zippers and large chain bags in the mix. Strong partings and Twiggy lashes to the touch. This was a blunt Marni at it’s best, ‘fashion’ written all over it and perhaps the start of a huuuge upcoming maximalism trend (after so many seasons of cleanness and sobriety it’s about time).

Dolce & Gabbana Catwalk Fashion Show Milan Womenswear FW2013

The golden mosaics of Sicily’s Cathedral of Monreale was the starting point of Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana’s fall winter collection. The duo sent out a dozen dresses printed with Monreale’s famous Byzantine and Venetian mosaics, and just as many lacy dresses in cardinal red. For jewelry, rosaries.
It was less kitsch than last season thanks to the sober herringbones and checks they used for skirtsuits and coats.

 

 

First View Milan Womenswear FW2013: Film Noir

Where fashion is more and more about garments and less about obvious trends that break with previous seasons, here we DO have a trend. It is back to the 40’s with a Film Noir twist. Not that we haven’t been there before. But here it is invigorated with a refreshing raw edge. Refined and elegant, sexy as well as romantic, revealing bits of darkness and gloom.

Miuccia Prada launched her exercise in fashion as cinema. She stages stories of woman and life. ‘Who cares about the dress?’ was her genius quote on Style.com. That is such a meaningful sentence. It is the emotion surrounding the garments that counts and nothing can light up the fire as powerful music and a filmic set.

Nevertheless this was all about lovely lean tailoring, extremely luxurious in desirable fabrics. Beautiful garments as cabans, peplum jackets and hourglass dresses with exaggerated hips. Tailleurs, fishnets and gloves to match with long curvaceous skirts.

Prada referenced Film Noir. She staged the obsessions and passions she shares with both David Lynch and Alfred Hitchcock.

Gucci was darker; adding austerity, vigor and fetish. An ode to craft, embellishing power women and femmes fatales. Dsquared² dived deep into the 40’s with curvy skirt suits and shapely double-breasted jackets. All very costumy and posed.

Let’s make movies!

Stylespot is a collaboration with Stijlinstituut Amsterdam