Silvia Venturini Fendi unpopped the lid of her Lego box for this playful collection of sports-inspired silhouettes in primary brights and animal patterns with a Pop Art spirit.
Many of Milan’s designers are determined to keep things real this season, with an eye to dressing men for everyday in easy clothes pulled from gym bags, sports fields, college kids’ wardrobes or the hiking trail.
The colors, including electric tangerine, bubblegum pink, bright green and cobalt — not to mention the patchwork and painterly fur details on lapels and collars — were “an optimistic sign for the future.”
To convey a sense of lightness and practicality, Fendi worked with nylon for puffers, trousers and jackets. The dark pieces were almost always luxed-up with contrasting pops of colored fur.
Models marched down two long catwalks in androgynous looks — a leopard-print coat and pink tracksuit trousers worn with furry orange slides, or a dark coat, its fur lapels done in tutti-frutti colors. Contrast, go-faster stripes stretched down the sides of trousers or came as furry strips on jacket arms.
There was a cartoonish feel to the boxy bags — which came in electric pink or screaming yellow, some with fuzzy bobbles dangling off the handles — and to the fur coats that were inset with soccer-fan scarves reading Fantastic Fendi.
Stripes and florals lead the way at Fendi. Sporty and romantic came together in the first Fendi show since the Trevi Fountain spectacle in Rome. And even though that location is hard to beat this collection did a great job at wowing us. Styles may have had lots of historic references and influences from other decades overall they appeared young and modern. Especially that selection of wide legged 7/8 pants with cropped – underboob revealing – tops. Fully buttoned shirts were given a playful twist by the fun styling (sporty socks and crazy bags). Even those aprons appeared fresh in combination with those XL geeky glasses and metallic model lips. Perhaps Lagerfeld tried to teach us a fashion lesson. If you feel your outfit might fall out of place just add some bizarre styling tricks and you’re all set. Although the clothes would have been just as beautiful without all the distractions.
At Fendi ruffles, frills, and flounces represented waves (Einstein’s gravitational waves to be precise). They popped up on sleeves, yokes, collars, hems, boots and handbags. Midi dresses, a pair of babydoll shorts, 7/8 high waisted pants, an oversize quilted coat and patchwork midi skirts. Like you’d expect at Fendi the clothes existed of a fair amount of fur, mixed with velvet and satin. Classic rich materials to create contemporary looks. Luxury for the cool kids who have already added those wave inspired sunnies and frilled thigh high boots to their f/w obsessions. Light pastels worked beautifully with deeper shades. Especially in the case of a light blue cable knit paired with a high waisted emerald colored pair of pants. Sir Lagerfeld know how to make a wave or two.
There were no references in Fendi’s show. “Retro is over”, stated Karl Largerfeld backstage. And he might just be right. When will fashion be done with the looking back and using bygone decades as an inspiration? Like always Karl Lagerfeld (and his design partner at Fendi Silvia Venturini Fendi) took the lead and decided that time is now. And so their SS2016 collection felt fresher than a daisy.
Would you think every possible piece of fashion has already once been designed, Fendi proved there’s still so much newness to explore. Like those billowy skirts and leather harnesses, like high waisted pants and leather tops done in a palette of black, army green, air force blue and Soviet red. Like those high necks and puffy sleeves. Silhouettes were soft, feminine and billowy in contrast to the show’s urban (concrete everywhere) backdrop. Floral embroideries, whip stitching, braided and smocking effects turned every look into a one of a kind. Toughness vs femininity.
And if you thought those high necks were a Victorian reference or those strong shoulders must have been inspired by the eighties. Well, they were not. “When tradition meets the future, you don’t know what period anything is from”, Karl stated.
What a refreshing way of looking at fashion just like it is. No eighties, nineties or Victorian references here. Just 2016 exquisite summer wear like you’ve never seen before.
The Fendi-collection was all about geometry, experimental volumes and a little fun. Inspiration for stage and invitation was the work by Swiss artist Sophie Taeuber-Arp. But while they referenced her circular work, much of what was on the runway was angular — coats, dresses, even pants were made from pieced-together panels.
This collection was a fusion of faux-utilitarian pragmatism and flamboyance. There was a bit of the Alpine worker to the pinafores and chaps-like leather additions attached at the hips to skirts. Bibs and aprons in paneled constructions were fastened by giant buttons. Continuing with the add-a-flower motif started two seasons back with orchid corsages, here, birds of paradise popped out of color-blocked fur and shearling bags.
The fabric splicing intrigued — the simplicity of the two-tone white coat that opened the show to graphically collaged coats and a witty felt gilet over corduroy pants wrapped in tubes of shearling from the knees down. The diversity continued through to silhouettes; looks came long and lean, long and swingy, short and crisp, and big, bigger, biggest, with the mega-statement coming on the big side. Lagerfeld and Fendi did outrageous takes on the puffer, including out-to-there short jackets over slim skirts and some strapless dresses.
Cara Delevingne dressed in a chic black hooded coat with faux fur detailing carrying a tiny faux fur Lagerfeld doll (the latest it-accessory?) was the first look of today’s Fendi show. What followed were lots of beautiful coats, dresses and jackets created out of a mix of fabrics (very Fendi). Wool, velvet, neoprene, mesh parts and faux fur details in all the right places filled the Italian fashion house’s fall/winter presentation. There was a focus on coats, jackets and (skater) skirts and the whole collection had a very sporty vibe. Coats got bomber jacket collars, designs had all kinds of neoprene and mesh parts and those leather boots had a definite sneaker appeal. Apart from the company’s great leather bags and few orange shaded sunglasses and that one particular doll, orchids pinned onto the fur coats (inspired by Billie Holiday’s song “Violets for Your Furs,” Lagerfeld thought of the tradition that dictated a woman’s husband or lover would pin her with a floral corsage as she set off cross-country by train, which led to travel being the theme of his new Fendi collection) formed the ultimate f/w2014 accessory. All of this was filmed by drones (flying technology objects with tiny camera’s that provide a 360 degree view) and broadcasted live on the Fendi website. Now that’s even better than a front row seat!
Today was not just the day of the Fendi show. It was a special day for the brand in many different ways. The Italian brand opened the doors of their brand new head quarters in Milan. A building with offices, showrooms, an exposition area and, apparently, the longest catwalk in the city. So it was only logical for designers Karl Lagerfeld and Silvia Venturini to hold their s/s2014 presentation in this new area. Fendi also managed to launch a brand new platform just in time for the label’s fashion show. Fendi life allows fashion fans to get interactive with the designer label. Fans can see the opening of a new boutique in Milan and virtually check out a new exhibition entitled Making Dreams: Fendi and the Cinema, which celebrates Fendi’s contribution to the cinematic world. Also they were able to watch the fashion show while it happened. And in line with all this newness they could enjoy quite a futuristic Fendi show. Models, all wearing short black wigs with bangs, became almost unrecognizable, which let us focus even more on the clothes. Designs made out of ultra fin layers of fabric in shades like red, orange, white and navy. Whether created by cut-outs, cropped tops, sheer parts or mesh fabrics, every look had a certain airiness to it. Even the pieces decorated by heavy materials like fur and leather seemed summer proof. Besides the fact that the designers sent out many looks, the show was a lot to take in. With fabrics, patterns, furry accessories, sunglasses, tiny waist belts, colorful shoes, bright lips cnadian viagra india and wigs all screaming for attention. It’s clear the Fendi show won’t go unnoticed this year.
Silvia Venturini Fendi designed her ss14 menswear-collection with ‘Extreme Heat’ in mind. The result was a streamlined collection with crisp and slim suits and oversized outerwear. Some pockets and seams were trimmed with strips representing tape, which gave it a raw edge. Colors were deep and saturated, rust, ochre and indigo. Sometimes a bit faded, like bleached by the sun.
The Fendi men won’t get cold, that’s for sure. Hidden from under high collars, hoodies and the thickest fur they are prepared for the worst possible weather. Fur UGG-like boots to strut to the snow and a waist bag so any emergency items are within close reach. The Fendi man will look cosy on the couch in his comfy knitwear. He will appear swell in his checked grey suit. As he’ll be a true trendsetter with his navy shaded cape on. But God forbid he’ll turn up as that black hairy monster on his first date or any appointment for that matter.
Our own fashiondictionary Dickies Comfortable, ugly looking shoes like Mephisto's, Clarks and Timberlands. Often worn by not so young men with sour feet who stand around a lot. Like photographers.