Michael Kors Catwalk Fashion Show SS10

Michael Kors was thinking about architectural shapes, and sent out a sleek collection that seemed an ode to the city in springtime.  The strong yet rounded shoulders of his jackets and vests put the power in power suit. Overall  he was more interested in sleeveless shift dresses, a favorite of his  client Michelle Obama. They came in silver crinkle lamé, crushed techno taffeta, draped jersey, and soft leather. Kors created surface interest elsewhere with zipper accents that zigzagged around the torso or with bold cutouts that exposed a flash of rib on a cocktail dress.

New York Fashion Week Impressions #5

Marc Jacobs Catwalk Fashion Show SS10

Alexander Wang Catwalk Fashion Show SS10

Maybe because of his collaboration this year with the Gap, Alexander Wang has had all-American sportswear on the brain.  Wang’s subject was that most popular red-white-and-blue pursuit: football. His goal was investment pieces and the investment elements were, mostly, hooded and utilitarian outerwear pieced together from a variety of fabrics, including nylon and army canvas.

Lacoste Catwalk Fashion Show SS10

The models at Lacoste walked at a catwalk that looked like a boardwalk, the ones you’d find at a resorts in France, elevated above an ‘ocean’ of carpet. Simply, sporty chic was the allover theme of Christophe Lemaire’s collection. There were tennis references, but also a beachy aura of langor and leisure that went back to the pictures of Jacques-Henri Lartigue at the beginning of the 20-th century. There was nothing retro about the collection. Its smart focus on upgraded basics, rather than trends gave it panache.

Jason Wu Catwalk Fashion Show SS10

Jason Wu is the young designer who got famous because of Michelle Obama’s inaugural gown and her sleeveless shift dresses in juicy citrus tones. For summer 2010 he  sent silk tweed pants and silk tweed hoodies down his runway in the  gilded banquet room of the St. Regis Hotel New York. He added a little dose of downtown grittiness with trendy jumpsuits he called ‘mechanic’ suits. He tried to avoid being too edgy by using marabou feathers and presenting glossy cocktail dresses. And let’s not forget his special client: the staple stitch embroidery on fitted tweed dresses and the sculpted faille dresses had plenty of East Wing potential. Wu even accessorized most of the dresses with heavy leather belts, a nod to his favorite First Lady.

Christian Lacroix Haute Couture Catwalk Fashion Show FW09

It was an haute coutureshow full of emotion, a collection produced on a shoestring and only made possible by the collective will and donated time and skills of the seamstresses, embroiderers, jewelers, milliners and shoemakers loyal to Christian Lacroix. Only the models were paid, €50 each according to French law, but they ended up in tears too. Lacroix didn’t cry, he said he wants to continue, maybe in a different way, with a smaller atelier. Het just cares about the women who do the job for him. The collection was sober and restraint, only in black and midnight blue and concentrated on shape and wearability. In al its purity it showed Lacroix’ craftsmanship. As the designer came out to lead he bride in the finale, the whole audience stood up to honour him. Bravo!

Armani Prive Haute Couture Catwalk Fashion Show FW09

The pantsuit is making a subtle comeback at Paris haute couture, and there’s only one master who can make beautiful pantsuits: mr Armani. He has a lifetime authority on the subject. His show focused on jackets with rounded shoulders over sofly pleated pants. Colors were silver, black and ivory. Armani said he’d been inspired by black-and-white-movie stars, but the collection never looked too retro.

Chanel Haute Couture Catwalk Fashion Show FW09

The Chanel haute couture collection was shown in the Grand Palais on a stage set with giant No 5 bottles. The collection looked quite toned-down, Lagerfeld played with graphic proportions – suits and dresses with long panels at the back shown with lace tights  and stiletto heeled booties. The sparkle was there, but it didn’t lit a huge fire.

Givenchy Haute Couture Catwalk Fashion Show FW09

Even when he’s designing haute couture Riccardo Tisci moves between strict-chic  and otherworldly, goddesslike creatures living in his fantasyworld. This season it looked like mix of Morocco, Berber tribes-people and other Middle Eastern influences. The silhouette was tailored with padded shoulders and focus at the waist, fabrics moved from velvet to leather and golden embroidery. There were hoods and veils, corsets and drapes – and it all looked very modern.

« Previous Page — Next Page »