Ermenegildo Zegna Catwalk Fashion Show Milan FW2011

In a watery cold Milan the menswear fashionweek(end) took off with two classics: Corneliani and Ermenegildo Zegna. The design-team at Zegna seemed captured by China and mixed oriental themes with a more classic tailoring. Business suits had a sporty attitude thanks to the use of tweed-effects and utility touches. The silhouette was defined by straight shouldered three-button suits and jackets, as well as streamlined high-cuff trousers. The touch of China was visible in high collared Mao-jackets, bamboo-green, reds and shiny silk fabrics with a vintage patina. There was a slightly military touch to it thanks to army-belts, little leather pockets, combat-type boots and big shearling coats.

Item of the season will be the iPad-cases, as a sleeve or a shoulderbag. Almost every label is presenting one or more models in their collection.

It was a Live D fashion show, created in collaboration with director James Lima – who was a visual consultant on the film Avatar. Backstage models were filmed in the ‘Green Room’ using cutting edge filmtechnology. Front of house the images were projected on a giant screen in real time against a filmed backround, coinciding with the models arriving on the runway. The show unfolded both live and on screen  – as if the models were walking off the screen into the real dimension.

Joline Jolink Catwalk Fashion Show ss2011

Joline Jolink is one of the few Dutch designers who is working silently and serious at her oeuvre. She’s still developing, but her style is already visible and consistent. She sells mainly in the Netherlands (12 shops and a webshop) and probably soon in Belgium. It’s been a while since Joline Jolink  showed a collection to an audience, but yesterday she presented her spring summer-2011 collection to buyers and a small selection of editors. It was a very grown up, elegant and sporty collection. For the first time Joline Jolink presented some leather accessories, two small bags worn at the hip and a big bag inspired by oldfashioned schoolbags.

The designer is fascinated by strong women, their lives, way of dressing, way of thinking. And it always makes an interesting collection. For next spring it was Katharine Hepburn that inspired Joline Jolink. Especially her sporty/elegant way of dressing and her preference for menswear tickled the designer.

The result is a well balanced collection full of renewed classics, like the men’s shirt, the pleated trousers, the suit and the shirtdress. Jolink choose basic colors, like beige, marine, black, white and mustard. The only print was a wrinkled navy/beige striped jersey. eyecatchers were a soft, halterneck suit, a big poncho and a beige-colored silk suit. The flowing silhouet, the modern classics with a clean, sporty twist and the eclectic mix made it to a strong collection.

Alexander McQueen Catwalk Fashion Show SS2011

I wasn’t there personally, but I just wanted to show you some pictures of the new menswear-collection of Alexander McQueen. It seemed unthinkable that the label could do without the founder, McQueen – who died four months ago -,  but his righthand Sarah Burton took over. She is the one who knew the best how he thought and worked.

It was a low key presentation of a subtle reworking of the house aestetic. Cut away jackets, a red and gold brocate coat, deconstructed redingotes, cashmere sweaters and striped pants. Burton played a subtle game between high and working class.

Burberry Catwalk Fashion Show ss2011

For the recent wintercollection of Burberry Christopher Bailey went back to the roots of the old British label: the trenches of World War 1 en 2. And for his recent summercollection Bailey mixed the army-wear with skintight, vintage biker-pants and cropped weathered jackets.

Once again Bailey got all the military heritage at the stage and restored all the accents, like epaulets, belts and straps. The trenches looked sharp and clean. Colors were alike moving from black tot navy-blue, khaki and green. It looked like a solid, commercial collection with lots of items to put on your wish-list. If I were a man I would definitely save money for a black biker-jacket, a thin shirt and a clean, leather trench. But as a fashion-collection it did not stand out – I’ve seen better Burberry-collections with great shirts and accessories, in new colors and interesting daring  design, combinations or fabrics.

But hey, these are the days of surviving in the fashionworld.  And I forgive the designer for being so honest and calculating. Thanks to him Burberry is still going strong. It’s simply time to invest in great classic pieces, fast fashion can wait for now.

Dolce & Gabbana Catwalk Fashion Show SS2011

Dolce & Gabbana keep on celebrating their 20th anniversary with memorable events. Not only a cocktail and exhibition in the Palazzo Marino (City Hall) in the centre of Milan, but also with great theatrical fashionshows. The shows not only tell the story of their roots, but also of their creativity and passion.

Today’s menswearshow was all about passion and drama. The duo took inspiration from their beloved Sicily, especially from the fishermen. They took their simple, but inventive way of clothing – pants held together by a rope, fishnet-shirts, simple linen suits, sandals and shorts – and translated that in a casual, relaxed collection with white, black and sand as their main colors. I’m sure there was something for actor Morgan Freeman or Matthew McConnaughey who were attending the show.

But the most dramatic part was the performance of singer Annie Lennox. Dressed in a  huge ballgown she played the piano and acted like a real diva. Her voice sounded better than ever and she sang her evergreens passionately.

Graduation Shows: HKU – Utrecht

Yesterday 25 students of the HKU (Hogeschool voor de kunsten Utrecht) presented their graduation collections. In a beautiful location, called Winkel van Sinkel, they all gave their own little fashion show. The event was named ‘Platform’, yet each student could give his/her collection it’s own name. But apart from the name, they also had to come up with a theme, a collection (of course), the styling, the make-up, the choreography and the music. So you’ll guess they’d been working on this for months.

All the hard work was definitely visible; we saw some great collections.

Let’s start with Mariko Ferrier. Her theme was ‘The beauty of the ugly truth’. Her models first walked on stage very slowly, but started to walk faster towards the end. Her clothes were a mix of beautiful and ugly details. She, for example used light transparent fabrics combined with heavy, thick woollen parts. Her pants, her jackets and her tops all had wholes in them. They were hanging together by thick threads of wool. We loved the dip-dying she used, yet the music was awful.

Then we had Barbara Langendijk. She called her collection ‘Me versus My identity’ and was inspired by the search of her own identity. Her models stepped on the runway in towering high shoes and wore eye-catching glasses. Barbara had used her own shadow in her designs, which therefore had very high shoulders. She came up with strange combinations of fabrics like velvet and very thin transparent ones. An item we very much liked, was her beige cape.

The presentation of Mark Stadman, a fashion communication student, really stood out. Mark, who named his collection ?Mark, took his inspiration from the boy-bands in the nineties. He came up with five totally different outfits to stress the individual characters of ‘his boy-band’. His models had studied strange movements and wore crazy wigs. Mark didn’t design a collection, yet he managed to portray a very clear fashion message.

Esther Vijftigschild used the life’s tale of her Grandmother’s skin as a starting point for her collection ‘The metaphor of skin’. Like your skin can tell the story of your life, Esther did that with her clothes. Her designs were a mix of light and heavy fabrics. They had accentuated shoulders and volume in strange places. The ends of the fabric were decorated with thick wool. The silhouette was long.

Roos Woudenberg designed a good collection of men’s clothes. Not only did the designs look very wearable, they were all made out of sustainable materials too. Shades like brown/deep red were combined with dark blue. Especially the coats looked strong. Hats off for Roos for this sustainable and fashionable collection.

Jan Boelo Drenth’s collection was (like his music) very Gothic. He designed everything in black from capes to trails and cowls. It felt dark and mysterious, like he intended it. Jan used many different fabrics and created lots of volume. His great passion for couture was visible is lots of small accents he’d put on his garments. The good thing about this collection was that it was cohesive and became more dramatic with each outfit appearing on the runway. The skirts and the trails became bigger with each look. That’s how a good collection works. Well done.

Louis Vuitton Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2010

The circle is round. What started with the 50’s/60’s inspired show at Prada two weeks ago ended yesterday with a Louis Vuitton-collection in a production that breathed the Fifties-sixties in every outfit. The collection was inspired by And God created women, the movie that made Brigitte Bardot a big star, and the models looked sensual, feminine and curvy.

Marc Jacobs explained his take on the Fifties as an excuse to to pause and appreciate what a house like Vuitton is capable of creating. And that are bags actually, so there was a beautiful bag for every oufit Jacobs sent out – like fantastic redos of the Vuitton Speedy.

The silhouette was curvy with focus at the waist, full skirted dresses or full skirts mixed with tailored jackets- that’s probably why Jacobs hired Laetitia Casta, Bar Refaeli, Catherine McNeil, Karolina Kurkova, and finally Elle Macpherson, all women who were banned from the fashion-shows for a long time because of their beautiful, curvy body.  Jacobs made them look  fresh, feminine and ingenue, with hair scraped back into high, bouncy ponytails; clean makeup; and square-toed, block-heeled pumps trimmed with flat bows.

Louis Vuitton Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2010

Chloe Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2010

Well, camel is the new black for next fall. And clean, sporty minimalism is the trend.

The collection Chloe’s Hannah MacGibbon sent out yesterday had it all. Her collection mixed the all classic American sportswear with a Seventies touch. It looked sleek and sensual – especially the wide legged trousers with high waist – everything was cut loosely to the body, there were great, big coats, sweater-like cashmere T-shirts and elegant blouses with draped bow details.

The only that we missed was, ehm, color. Besides 80 % camel, brown and black were the only ‘colors’ in the collection. That made it look a bit dull and tame, while camel is a great color to mix with some vibrant orange, electric blue or mean green. We would have been happy with a pair of gloves, a belt, a necklace or even a lipstick showing the sunny side.

Yves St. Laurent Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2010

The Yves St. Laurent-show started promising with a variation on the Little Black Dress with cape and a black three piece suit. Such a clean and classic look would be just on trend, as more houses are aiming at the new sporty minimalism. And no other house has a history in tailored sportswear and classic Parisian sensibility as the house of Yves St. Laurent.

But somehow designer Stefano Pilati tried too hard to be classic and modern, it needs a creative talent to make conservative sporty chic look dynamic and not dated. The long skirts however looked dull, the white shirts were dowdy and the plastic capes and eveningwear sexless. It looked like the collection was made for a nun instead of a woman of the world. Also because of the caped black forms, the head-coverings, the white cotton and heavy chain pendants.

Stefano Pilati told reporters that the collection was all about protection and that is was partly an homage to YSL and the tailleur. Maybe he should take a look at the retrospective on YSL that soon will open in the Petit Palais in Paris – there’s still a lot to learn from the old master.

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