Victoria Beckham Catwalk Fashion Show New York SS2013

It seems Victoria Beckham has decided she wanted to to advance her collection. She accomplished this smartly for spring, most notably by adding chic, tailored separates. From a minimalist baseline, she worked interesting details into coats and jackets, slim pants and crisp shirts, the perfect ease of their combinations showing the hand of Beckham’s new stylist, Joe McKenna.
Yet Beckham still loves a great dress. She also incorporated feminine touches via lingerie details — bra tops and straps peeking out from under dresses — and various types of lace.

Alexander Wang Catwalk Fashion Show New York SS2013

The glow in the dark-effect on the ivory clothes of Alexander Wang was a cool ending to his ss2013 presentation. The impression left after a very fast show was one of sharp, minimalist sport. There were boxy “hockey jerseys” worn over tailored shorts — skinny and Bermuda styles — and some of the models wore lacquered porcelain helmets. Wang rarely strayed from black and white, and when he did, it was a few notes of beige leather and gray. The silhouette was  spare and crisp, in stark cotton and exotics, such as snakeskin.

FRANK by Zeeman Backstage AIFW SS2012

The make up at the show of Frank was colorful, with bright colors like red and yellow at eyelids and nails, while lips were kept neutral. Take a look backstage.

Catwalk Fashion Show SIS by Spijkers en Spijkers SS2012

Tonight the Amsterdam Fashion Week kicked off with the SIS by Spijkers en Spijkers (their second line) fashion show. A great start of a week full of fashion!

Designers Truus and Riet Spijkers presented a fun, sunny collection which turned a big smile on our faces. They were inspired by the twenties and Olympic swimmer Zus Braun in particular. The swim details were visible through fun play/bathing suits and old skool bathing caps.

SIS was divided in day wear and evening wear and overall felt very playful and optimistic. Shades of rose, red, pistachio, amber and nautical blue were used in combination with white and black. The models looked feminine in jumpsuits, shorts, jeans skirts (with large pockets) and casual suit jackets.

Stripes were used in every possible way, a zig zag print came by and a ‘vintage’ fashion illustration formed the print on some of the SIS-tops. Multi-colored belts, sunny shades and cane hats added just the right feeling to some of the looks. Overall it was just a very joyful and wearable collection, exactly what a second line should be.

 

Fashionclash, this was saturday

The second day of Fashionclash was reserved for three long shows from all kinds of designers, from expertimental hairpieces to perfect men’s shirts. Highlights of the evening were the collections of Delikatessen, Femke Agema, Angelo van Mol, Diana Tax en Swantje Langeheine.

Jason Wu Catwalk Fashion Show New York FW2011

The army of press and photographers at the catwalkshows of Jason Wu grows every season bigger and bigger. Since Michelle Obama put the designs of this young designer in the international spotlights, his shows are one of the most anticipated of New York. This time the setting was a runway made of gilded mirrors and grandiose chandeliers in glass boxes decorating the room. And it was the perfect stage for his new fall winter collection where baroque met sportswear in a very elegant, daring way. Lace never looked so fresh.

Wu’s polished and ladylike look had a more urban vibe. The designer put a big emphasis on tailoring. He opened with a charcoal gray coat flung over the shoulders of a cropped jacket, printed blouse, and slim black slacks. Instead of an average flannel coat this one came with a strip of black lace down each sleeve.It was followed by prim, high-collared silk blouses with frilled collars and delicate bows at the closure and a virginal white dress with dainty lace overlay. For cocktail and evening Jason Wu came up with his signature tulipdresses and ravishing columndresses.

Wu made lace an integral part of this collection. Sometimes little bits of lace were embroidered onto blouses or A-line, slightly above-the-knee skirts and he engineered it to look like a print. The designer went all the baroque way by adding dense clusters of colorful stones at lace embroideries, even the hair got a gold-leaf pigment. Black and nude were the main colors, spiced up by blue, red and green.

First impression: Sage & Ivy

Although not at the official list of the AIFW, the Sage & Ivy-show was well visited by press and curious fashion-lovers. It was the second collection of designer Alexia van Engelen, and this time the collection was inspired by St Petersburg.

Jil Sander Catwalk Fashion Show Milan FW2011

Raf Simons keeps on pushing the color-theme at Jil Sander. After two strong, minimalistic springcollections for him and her where he surprised the in all black dressed fashioncrowd with vivid colors and white T-shirts, his winter 2011 collection seems more in balance. He started with a dark suit, which actually was a mix of purple and black, combined with a shirt and sweater. But soon the colors changed into yellow, white, pink, orange and electric blue for total outfits and subtler mixes.

Simons replaced the mens shirt by T-shirts in shiny, bubbly fabrics and presented them in layers which added more volume and a fresh, modern touch to the minimal style.

Dolce & Gabbana Catwalk Fashion Show Milan FW2011

After a few strong menswear-seasons with the focus at Italian sartorial craftmanschip, Dolce & Gabbana moved on. They looked at Britain and 80’s style-icon Bryan Ferry, who’s slick style of shiny suits inspired a whole generation of young men back then. I guess Bryan Ferry was happy he grew out of that 80’s style of short, slightly squared jackets, wide lapels and tapered pants while watching the show in a slim suit and accompanied by two of his sons (who looked very smart too). It’s a big step from the handsome and streamlined Italian style we’re used to see at Dolce & Gabbana.

But maybe it’s just a matter of time. The look must seem bright new to a younger generation fed up with skinny pants and jackets. The new silhouette is more square and non fitted, jackets are much shorter and pants got low crotches. For the streetwise styling the designduo looked at British ska’s, with their hats, black and white, suspenders, short pants and shoes. The formal suit was mixed, a jacket with jeans, the pants with striped sweater, velvet with denim, faux fur with wool, pinstripes with pied de poule. There was even a hint of color next to the black and grey, red and bordeaux played a major role. The collection deserved the name Eccentric Tailoring –  only for those who dare.

Costume National Catwalk Fashion Show Milan FW2011

Costume National’s designer Ennio Capasa tried to mix traditional tailoring and fabric/construction research with a rebellious core. The result was less surprising as it sounds, because this is what he does every season. Experimenting with clean cuts, jackets without seams assembled by laser technique and a synthesis between formal and sportswear. Of course in signature black, with hints of res, royal blue, dark green and salmon for sweaters in soft mohair.

What I liked the most were the coats and jackets made of wool with leather sleeves, or made of fabric with knitted sleeves. But in the end it was a reset of ideas. Daring was a knitted tuxedo. And this season Capasa finally got rid of all the wite shirts and ties. In the name of a creative rebellion.

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