Roberto Cavalli Catwalk Fashion Show Milan Womenswear SS2015

The words chic, romantic and delicate might not usually be the best words to describe a signature Roberto Cavalli creation. Yet on Saturday the designer did present us with such a collection. A collection with a type of resort feeling, “the vacation life” as Cavalli’s team stated backstage. With modest, kaleidoscopic, tribal kind of floor length dresses, sliced up and pleated. With dreamy cotton lace decorated by elegant bows. And with destroyed, ultra light, vintage looking denim (the labels’original trademark) numbers. Still, who thought this would only be a dreamy, loungy holiday selection of clothing, might be disappointed. Of course Cavalli couldn’t resist to throw in a series of club worthy outfits. Like croc leather skirts and motor jackets. Like plunging, glittery leopard dresses. Like sheerness, fringes, sequins, leather and animal prints all in one party look. Now that’s the Cavalli we know! Although we don’t mind his little resort half of the collection, at all.

Versace Catwalk Fashion Show Milan Womenswear SS2015

On a mirrored runway Donatella Versace presented her collection for next summer. And a mirrored (dance) floor probably is the best spot to work her latest range of disco appropriate dresses. Sexy silhouettes, bold colors, shiny, glittery straps, shoes ands bags to match the outfits and the company’s logo all over it. No evening gowns here, just a raunchy range of sheer, mesh and cut-out party creations. The fashion feeling of the Italian label was in the large stitching, the geometric prints and cutouts (of the Versace logo and some rings) the wet hair look and the minimal use of make-up. Now let’s dance!

Missoni Catwalk Fashion Show Milan Womenswear SS2015

Seating celebrities front row at your fashion show might not be such a thing anymore, Johnny, Angela Missoni’s English bulldog, did earn his ‘frow’ spot at Missoni. And there’s no doubt about Johnny liking the sugar sweet, ultra light spring collection. Although the extremely long and lean knitted dresses would probably not be a perfect match. Relaxing maxi skirts, dresses and trenchcoats with lace and tulle parts followed each other in rainbow pastel shades with not only a subtle vector print but some wave and floral details too. Like at Fendi the orchid popped up quite a few times. Flat sandals, colored turbans and bright red lips topping the full on summer looks off.

Sportmax catwalk Fashion Show Milan Womenswear SS2015

While Max Mara was nice, but not necessarily mind blowing, it’s little sister Sportmax was impressive with a collection full of XL check prints and culottes. The designs felt young as crop tops, hands in the pockets, hair pulled back and bare faces made it look modern. Models sported strapless dresses, belted kimono tops, checked pencil skirts with matching jackets and furry/fringed sweaters. All in a sophisticated color palette of blacks and whites, olive green and a bright touch of orange. Work attires, relax outfits and quite a few party numbers; for upcoming summer Sportmax is bound to appeal to a wide range of female customers.

Max Mara Catwalk Fashion Show Milan Womenswear SS2015

Were we watching a seventies show? Due to, among other things, the choice of hats Max Mara didn’t really breathe S/S2015 at first. Yet after a closer look we could see the modernity of the clothing. Most looks seemed a combination of a mid calf length pencil skirt and one or mops layered tops. Yet with all of them being fully printed it was hard to tell where one piece of clothing ended and the other began. Let alone distinguish a skirt from a pair of culottes. In any case Max Mara focuses on the waist for summer with not only skirts but long, tailored double breasted suit jackets too. XL cardigans and trenchcoats were worn over sheer tops. Slouchy belts and silky scarves added some chicness of the collection as those suede boots would work well with just about any 2015 ensemble.

Gucci Catwalk Fashion Show Milan Womenswear SS2015

At Gucci we were presented a mix of many things really. A mix of luxury and casual, sensual and practical, western and eastern influences, but also a combination of vintage inspired and more modern pieces. Overall the collection had a seventies vibe, which perfectly coincides with Kate Moss – Gucci’s front row guest – being the new face of the brand. The topmodel is known for her seventies rock chic way of dressing. She loves a good pair of jeans as much as she adores her many fur creations. We therefore could see her working the biggest part of the collection into her daily wardrobe. The army inspired, double breasted jackets while on the go in London. The XL laced up tops while lounging on a yacht near Saint Tropez. The patchwork, Oriental printed chiffon dresses when attending a fancy fashion event. The 7/8 pants might be a little more tricky, as they would be to any average woman’s figure. Same counts for the stiff, thick leather designs that mostly just look their best on a model’s body. But Frida came up with more than enough wearable options for next summer. The gorgeous color palette of browns and reds definitely set the right mood. The accentuated waists (by brown leather belts) and silk scarfs added to the cohesiveness of the collection. And as strangely as it might sound, we’re looking forward to rocking some of that fur underneath the Ibiza sun.

Jesus del Pozo Catwalk Fashion Show New York Womenswear SS2015

Creative Director Josep Font of the Spanish house Delpozo played with volume, proportion and illusion. He began with exaggerated sportswear silhouettes: the widest of red culottes paired with a white wrapped bandeau, and the fullest of skirts, beautifully done in a white, navy and green midi strapless dress with a white shirt underneath. He then shifted gears into more sculptural pieces inspired by the land art of Nils-Udo, including a yellow top with an exaggerated peplum and a sculpted flower on the bodice, and a miniskirt with origamilike panels.
He also paid homage to the 19th-century glass creations of Leopold and Rudolf Blaschka with a green tulle shirtdress embellished with seashells.

Michael Kors Catwalk Fashion Show New York Womenswear SS2015

Michael Kors’s collection can be described as American optimism, feminine but also rugged and sporty.

Seethrough such skirts played a role in Kors’ prevailing silhouette — waist-centric with a full skirt that indeed hints at the Fifties without ever making the trip to retro. The polite transparency recurred as well, wearability achieved when paired with crisp, elongated skirts.
Flowers abounded — pristine daisy appliqués on all-white looks; a camellia print on a pajama; big geraniums embroidered on indigo mikado. Kors delivered on the sporty side of his equation with cropped chinos, one pair worn with a shirt and gray cashmere pullover with matching corsage; strong outerwear, and his grounded footwear. This included a rugged sandal set on a prim, low heel. The style’s name, at least on Sunday morning: the Jesus Kitten.

Marc by Marc Jacobs Catwalk Fashion Show New York Womenswear SS2015

Energy — the driving force of the planet, whether it unites, divides, uplifts or negates. In a matter of three seasons, Katie Hillier and Luella Bartley have infused Marc by Marc Jacobs with the kind of charge that people seek out. Young, fierce and intense, the powerful attitude established for fall gained momentum for spring.

‘Be who you are’ would be the mantra of the spring Marc by Marc girl. Wearing a cropped T-shirt layered under a plastic, pastel-blue polka-dot bandeau and matching skirt, herhair twisted into a mohawk of mini-buns, she would be the confident nonconformist at the party — intimidating but probably a lot of fun.

 

Rodarte Catwalk Fashion Show New York Womenswear SS2015

The Rodarte-sisters starting point for their spring collection were tide pools and all of the glistening, mysterious materials and textures therein. Whether they were referencing the life aquatic of their California youth or of their verdant imaginations, no matter. They mined the waters and came out with dresses mesmerizing in their messiness: elaborate pastiches of hand-painted laces, tulles, netting and embroideries.

But life isn’t lived underwater, or after dark only. The Mulleavys showed an affinity for daywear their way: lovely ruffle-collared blouses that looked plenty sexy atop skintight jeans. They developed outerwear as well, which they envisioned on a girl standing on the pier watching the water. These came in sturdy olive canvas with wide netting on the sleeves, as if some chic flotsam had washed ashore on a wave of inventive practicality.

 

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