Stella McCartney Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Womenswear SS2015

Like no other Stella McCartney is able to design clothes women really want to wear. And not just because they look so good, but because they’re wearable. Cause even now that wearability is high up on any designer’s agenda, not all designer clothes are that easily to wear in daily life. Most of Stella’s designs for summer 2015 are, although we don’t think we’ll be biking through Amsterdam in one of her floor sweeping, flapper, flared designs. Her unicolored, feminine designs seemed suitable for a large group of women, from almost any size or age. The roomy pants looked chic, the long knitted tops worn over knitted skirts appeared elegant and the ruffle/flapper details on the dresses made up for a feminine kind of playfulness. Bomber collars, sweater details, trench inspired epaulets, wrap skirts, large buckles, the chunkiest necklaces and cut-outs added to the modern character of the collection. Some models in checked numbers seemed to have just been lifted out of bed. This is comfort dressing with a twist.

Jean Paul Gaultier Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Womenswear SS2015

Jean Paul Gaultier’s collections seemed to be ‘best of’ collections for the last few seasons. The talented designer mostly celebrated his biggest success designs, like his signature trenchcoat, the Breton stripe, pinstripe, the corset etc. His shows with guest appearances of Madonna and Dita von Teese were true spectacles, yet new trends, hypes or refreshing ideas seemed missing. Perhaps a run up towards this weekends’ show, his last prêt-à-porter show, described by many as the end of an era. Jean Paul Gaultier, unlike some of his fellow designers, knows when to stop and he sure went out with a bang. No ordinary last runway show, but a beauty pageant was the setting for his grande finale. ‘Élection​ de Miss Jean Paul Gaultier 2015’ was divided into sections including the designer’s most recognizable work and some new side stories. A start of black and white tailoring followed up by colorful sportive and printed creations. Then some glittery ensembles, scarf printed designs, patchwork denim and shiny, streetwise gold. Some models were even dressed up as fashion’s most famous figures like Grace Coddington, Carine Roitfeld and Suzy Menkes. What an honor! And as if they were strutting the real streets models carried phones, umbrellas, flowers, footballs, cans of food and dogs. Some ‘older girls’ paraded in a few black outfits as tuxedo variations made their appearance. Mexican wrestling ladies with an attitude formed the finale of the show. And when Jean Paul Gaultier himself entered the runway wearing a ribbon stating ‘L’enfant terrible’ it was cheering and smiles everywhere. This was JPG prêt-à-porter.

Viktor&Rolf Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Womenswear SS2015

Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren choose activewear as their inspiration, though worked it with their own irreverent touch. Several remakes of Olivia Newton-John’s ‘Physical’ were on the soundtrack and punctuated their theme.

The duo played on the idea with biker shorts and slouchy pants. Theye were paired with mesh tops in upbeat floral prints. These looks riffed on traditional shirting, but were ruched, tweaked and cut together in an asymmetric way.
Playful touches were subtle, as in the way Horsting and Snoeren reworked tank tops, including one with an additional cross strap that added a graphic touch and cutout to the casual staple.

Junya Watanabe Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Womenswear SS2015

Junya Watanabe never designed for the mainstream client, but his collection for spring was more extravagant than we’ve seen from him in a while. Cartoonesque figures strutted his runway, sporting bright colored, latex disc shaped clothing, shoes helmets and bright make-up to match. The silhouette, if there was any, was about bare legs and architectonic shapes. Round discs at the shoulders, 3D, origami-like effects on the tops, asymmetric, zipped skirts at the bottoms. Breton stripes and biker jacket influences referred to the designer’s signatures. Other than that it was hard to recognize real wearable pieces. Most looks were real show numbers, belonging in a fashion expo or on stage. Both Gaga and Minaj would be pleased to pull some performance pieces from this collection.

Peet Dullaert Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Womenswear SS2015

Dutch designer Peet Dullaert presented his collection for the second time in Paris.And he continues to balance between boldness and fluidity, glassy accents and geometric lines, creating clothes with a contemporary reality. The designer used fabrics known for their volume, such as plissee, voile and tulle, shaping them to work closely in synergy with the body, yet still allowing free movement. The cut and weave of these fabrics provided a way to honour the female silhouette while creating an effortless construction.

Balmain Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Womenswear SS2015

As fashion brands are turning more towards social media (the first brands are advertising on Instagram and Burberry is experimenting with a Twitter buy button) it’s not all that surprising these media form an inspiration as well. And who needs to look at previous decade or go through old archives when you can have an Instagram picture of Rihanna as the starting point of a collection. Balmain’s Olivier Rousteing, who is friends with Rihanna, wanted to push the boundaries of sex for ss2015. Something he translated by showing a lot of skin through transparencies and cut outs. His creations paraded by the likes of Joan Smalls, Karlie Kloss, Kendall Jenner and Rosie Huntington Whitely were clean and powerful. Pencil skirts, high waisted pants, bandeau tops, sleeveless (tuxedo) jackets and one or two more airy and gracious evening gowns hit the runway. They had stripes and Mondrian-like checks (some of the checks were cutouts), they were tightfitting and sheer. But never did Rousteing take it too far. The clothes may not appeal to just everyone, but he presented the kind of sexiness that fits his target group. The kind of on the edge sexiness his friend and front row guest Kim Kardashian knows how to pull off (in real life and on Instagram).

Ann Demeulemeester Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Womenswear SS2015

Sebastien Meunier’s second collection for Ann Demeulemeester was vert Ann. All the label’s distinctive ingredients were present. Deconstructed tailoring, check. Black & white, check. Long & lean layering, check. It made up for the ultimate signature Demeulemeester collection, although critcs stated it could have been more renewing. Perhaps Meunier was being too polite, too loyal to Ann to change things radically. Some unexpected extra’s would have been welcome. Yet there’s no arguing the models didn’t rock their monotome ensembles. And we were happy to see some white fairies along the more doomy characters.

The time of the season (Milan SS15 streetwear)

It’s summer in Milano and streetwear is all around during fashion week! Team Peter Stigter went out and caught the atmosphere around the shows. Featured are, amongst others: Chiara (Blonde Salad), Kate Moss, Heidi Klum, Hanne Gaby and Anna Della Russo.

Marni Catwalk Fashion Show Milan Womenswear SS2015

On Sunday Marni was one of the final Italian brands to show their s/s collection in Milan. And well, the brand, which is turning 20 this year, made sure Milan Fashion Week went out with a bang. Besides the show Marni set up a large flower market at one of Milans famous 18th century building where the show was held. Not only the prettiest of flowers were represented here. Marni had covered just about any type of gardening essential, decoratively exposed in cheerful (and of course) branded bags.

It was a subtle nod to the collection, which involved some mind blowing (made abstract and magnified) floral prints of it’s own. The show started off very serene and calm though, with white, sandy and grey structured, asymmetrical outfits, looking sportive and modern at the same time. Kimono like sleeves and judo inspired tied belts gave the collection a subtle oriental touch. As did the graphic floral prints in green, yellow and red with summer season written all over them.

Of course it wouldn’t be a Marni show if accessories didn’t play their part. Multiple chunky necklaces worn at the same time, eye-catching earrings, statement bags and some impressive sportive platform sandals made it into a solid summer collection. No pulling from the archives, no looking back, no “best of”or “greatest hits”, but a collection perfectly worthy of concluding 20 Marni years.

Dolce & Gabbana Catwalk Fashion Show Milan Womenswear SS2015

Having pulled from Sicily’s beauty and history (their roots) numerous times Domenico and Stefano suddenly made a little inspiration hop for SS2015. Not the Italian island itself, but the Spanish invasion of Sicily (15th century) was the source for their sensual, classical yet still typical Dolce & Gabbana collection. “After a 200-year occupation the Spanish left a lot of things: baroque, religion, colour, flowers”, Domenico stated. All aspects well represented in this collection. Matador looks, flamenco outfits and castanets (on the soundtrack as well) were the almost literal translation of classical Spanish influences. Yet every look was given a modern, rich and extra sensual update. Bloomers, corset tops, cocktail dresses, skirts and capes were all highly decorated, embellished and embroidered. Rich floral patterns (even on some sheer knee high socks) were beautifully mixed with polka dots and stripes as heart prints represented passion. Everything was perfectly balanced. The prints, the colors, the revealing and the covering up, as well as the hair (middle parting), make-up (red lips) and the accessories (dramatic golden crowns, xl earrings and hand bags with dolls wearing matching outfits). Not once did the label let go of it’s oh so strong signature. We’re curious where it’s next trip will take us.

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