Dries van Noten Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Womenswear FW20914

Dries van Noten not only presented his fall/winter 2014 collection in Paris, he also prepared an exhibition in the Museum des Arts Decoratifs. His fall collection was audacious and practical, making for powerful, chic-with-a-twist viewing. Op Art graphics and color-centric rave-culture inspired the Belgian designer.

One of Van Noten’s great strengths is his ability to control visually intense motifs, any apparent randomness is intentional. His swirls, overlapping triptych circles and broken-striped grids were applied with bravado executed oh-so-carefully. At times, he went for the contrast of the caustic-on-classic. At other times, he opted for full-on visual shock value. Undulating stripes were another interpretation.
Throughout, Van Noten integrated athletic references — jackets and pants with zippers and parachute details that stood in contrast to the collection’s more obviously polished fare. Either way, he kept his proportions ample, right down to the primary accessories: big, 3-D flowers.

Giorgio Armani Catwalk Fashion Show Milan Womenswear FW2014

Giorgio Armani went green with his fall 2014 collection. In combination with gray that is. According to Armani green, lime-green – is a stimulating color and a bit avant garde. But the result was more classic in the end. Armani opened the show using different shades of gray, often in combination, for jackets, pants and dresses. He loosened his tailoring for easy coats with one-button closures at the neck.

Then the green showed up subtle, as a small stripe on a jacket collar, but later full on, in dresses and integrated separates.

Evening started with black jackets and T-shirts over fluid green pajama pants, some of them crystal-embroidered. The mood was casual. Pretty gowns followed, some cut with bodice treatments. These came in gray and black with varying degrees of lime.

Dolce & Gabbana Catwalk Fashion Show Milan Womenswear FW2014

For ever inspired by their beloved Sicily designers Domenico and Stefano this time pulled from the moment in history when invaders brought myths, legends and thus fairytales to the island. Doing so the show’s backdrop was one big mesmerizing fairy tale wood. Models were dressed as little red (grey and purple) riding hoods sporting large capes with fur trimmed hoodies. Cartoon-y Foxes, owls and squirrels were embroidered onto their clothing, as well as large flowers and keys (to the castle). There were frogs to be kissed. The color palette was warm (purple -amethyst-, ruby, emerald, burgundy, mustard), fabrics were rich and decorated (with beads and sequins) to the max. Attention was in the details, from diamond encrusted gloves to embellished handbags; this was luxury fashion at it’s finest. And though every single piece was beautifully made there were creations for the castle’s servants and there were show stopping princess gowns. One purple, floral printed, sheer dress, another in yellow and the closing look in red were truly magical. Not to mention the grande finale full of glittery Tinkerbell dresses. We’re enchanted..

Versace Catwalk Fashion Show Milan Womenswear FW2014

Donatella said to be focusing more on daywear for this collection. She only sent out four real floor sweeping gowns; the rest was daywear. But, note that we’re talking daywear in Donatella’s book. Which means a parade of asymmetrical figure-hugging dresse, lace up boots, military jackets and sixties inspired coats. Silk and satin were the fabrics of choice, vivid red and petrol blue the colors. Cat-eye sunglasses and bags full of gold hardware spiced up the vampy military looks even more. ‘Made in Italy’, Donatella stressed backstage, although the looks had a sixties London vibe written all over them.

Fendi Catwalk Fashion Show Milan Womenswear FW2014

Cara Delevingne dressed in a chic black hooded coat with faux fur detailing carrying a tiny faux fur Lagerfeld doll (the latest it-accessory?) was the first look of today’s Fendi show. What followed were lots of beautiful coats, dresses and jackets created out of a mix of fabrics (very Fendi). Wool, velvet, neoprene, mesh parts and faux fur details in all the right places filled the Italian fashion house’s fall/winter presentation. There was a focus on coats, jackets and (skater) skirts and the whole collection had a very sporty vibe. Coats got bomber jacket collars, designs had all kinds of neoprene and mesh parts and those leather boots had a definite sneaker appeal. Apart from the company’s great leather bags and few orange shaded sunglasses and that one particular doll, orchids pinned onto the fur coats (inspired by Billie Holiday’s song “Violets for Your Furs,” Lagerfeld thought of the tradition that dictated a woman’s husband or lover would pin her with a floral corsage as she set off cross-country by train, which led to travel being the theme of his new Fendi collection) formed the ultimate f/w2014 accessory. All of this was filmed by drones (flying technology objects with tiny camera’s that provide a 360 degree view) and broadcasted live on the Fendi website. Now that’s even better than a front row seat!

 

 

Max Mara Catwalk Fashion Show Milan Womenswear FW2014

Inspired by Scotland Max Mara came up with a luxurious collection this week. Full of rich materials with lots of texture the brand focused on it’s strongest asset; outerwear. With a wide range of classy coats (from woolen and tweed to quilted and leather) to choose from, the Max Mara women won’t be cold next winter. They were worn with pencil skirts (over the knee, mid calf), paired with sleeveless woolen tops, designs with PVC details and crocodile printed gold creations (even shoes!). Not tucked in, but worn to their full length, far below the waist. The designs may have been classic; the careless appeal of the models (hair undone, hardly any make-up, yet bright red lips) made them look young and fresh. As fresh as the collection’s lichen green, which already has us in deep thoughts figuring out with what tone to match it.

Alberta Ferretti Catwalk Fashion Show Milan Womenswear FW2014

It was clear that Alberta Ferretti got her inspiration from the woods and birds. The result was far from magcical and arty, it got a depth and sobriety via heavy textures and embellishments. Feathers were a key component of the collection — as a print; as an illusory mélange of pleated ribbon; and as a real detail.
Ferretti also played up decorative elements such as sequins, feathers, flower appliqués and ribbons. Her palette contained the colors of fall, green on the point of turning to orange, or peculiar leaf-mold tones. The textures followed suit — fabric technology duplicated tree bark, a nubby autumnal tweed was shot through with gold.

Gucci Catwalk Fashion Show Milan Womenswear FW2014

It was a smart Gucci-collection Frida Giannini presented at the start of Milan Fashion Week. Plain and simple, functional chic with a dash of glamor. The FW14 collection seems rooted in sportswear infused with a Sixties vibe: crisp, precise shapes softened with a palette of pastels — pinks and beiges; dusty blues and greens. The tailoring for jackets and pants were lean and mannish.
Dresses and belted coats retained the clean shapes while expressing the more feminine side of the Gucci range.

For evening Giannini offered a series of short, structured dresses including several in leather their bodices decorated with bold encrustations of crystals.

Bas Kosters Catwalk Fashion Show London FW2014

 

Clowns are people too, is the name of the fall/winter collection Dutch designer Bas Kosters presented at London Fashion Week last saturday. And it was a show to remember indeed. Not only the theme, but also Kosters’ vivid, colorful and fantastic prints in crazy outfits.  He created a collection that revealed both the man behind the mask and the mask behind the man. A collection that exhorts to look over, beyond the appearances.

New York Spin – Streetwear in New York FW14 season

Team Peter Stigter went to New York to cover the fashion shows. See what’s happening outside the shows, editors, models and buyers who attend the shows.

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