Balmain Catwalk Fashion Show Paris SS2013

Inspired by Cuba Olivier Rousteing used quite some Latin influences for his spring collection. Harlequin motifs represented it’s black and white tile floors and beautifully woven raffia dresses resembled Cuban wicker chairs. He used these influences and gave the collection as a whole a early nineties twist. Power dressing. Boxy jackets and heavily shouldered dresses made the tiny framed models indeed look powerful, yet sometimes the fit seemed a bit off.

In between the handcrafted embroidered looks a few simpler denim and leather looks popped up too. They didn’t scream as loud as some of the power designs, yet looked cool enough to be heard. With harlequin motifs, stripes, strong shoulders and some very skilled craftsman Rousteing had all the right ingredients for a success collection. Yet if he had held back just a little, the impact would probably have been bigger.

Steffi Christiaens Catwalk Fashion Show Paris SS2013

Please enjoy the pictures for now, our review will follow shortly.

Veronique Branquinho Catwalk Fashion Show Paris SS2013

Belgian designer Veronique Branquinho returned to the fashionworld yesterday with a show, three years after filing for bankruptcy. The designer, who recently presented a lingerie collection with local label Marie Jo l’Aventure returns with a slightly lower-priced collection. Branquinho works together with Italian clothing manufacturer Gibò, who has reportedly also invested in her company. In Paris she showed a chic collection with long fluid dresses in beige – sometimes with a golden touch – suits and shorters shifts that reminded of modern day goddesses. It was less edgy than what she used to present in her early days and what we liked about her collections. But growing up probably also means you have to leave the edgyness behind, but please stay away from the safe side.

Roberto Cavalli Catwalk Fashion Show Milan SS2013

This ss 2013 collection looked like a Cavalli in a calm, almost Zen mode. Instead of all sex appeal it was pure elegance and modernity. The show opened with a group of white looks in a clean silhouette with tailored jackets, crisp shirts and flared pants with  extravagant treatments, like draped fringe and leather that was laser-cut and embroidered to look like lace. Prints were shown mostly in black and white, with a few muted neons.
The soft palette and simple shapes  had a calming effect on Cavalli’s extremely sexy items like the lean, elaborately beaded evening gowns with low cutouts  on the hips, down the midriff and around the bust.

Gianfranco Ferré Catwalk Fashion Show Milan SS2013

Sometimes just using black and white in a collection can be enough. At least Stefano Citron and Federico Piaggi – never huge fans of color and print – didn’t fail to impress with their black & white only collection, inspired by photographs of Guy Bourdin, which made for a monochrome colour palette with accents of gold.

Their designs looked ultra chic. Surprising shapes, mixed materials and asymmetrical details gave every look it’s fashion forward touch. A white skirt, strapless top and long black train looked stunning in it’s simplicity. Low V-necks were alternated with fully buttoned sheer blouses and several one shouldered jumpsuits made their appearance too. Perfect legs were revealed in a series of bermudas, cocktail dresses and short skirts. Still, the selection of streamlined longer evening dresses, which had gorgeous leather leave details around the waist and neckline, made just as much impact with their perfect graceful slits.

Citron and Piaggi stepped away from their very architectural shapes and kept things quite simple. A smart decision since this Gianfranco Ferré collection turned out more wearable than ever. The proof that a minimal collection doesn’t have to boring and less often is more.

Dsquared2 Catwalk Fashion Show Milan SS2013

If any of the guests was still a little sleepy at Dsquared this morning he or she sure must have been wide awake the moment they left the venue. Dean and Dan treated us to a loud and fast show, which, at 09.30 A.M. in the morning, can be kinda heavy.

To the beats of a high tempo Alright club mix raunchy dressed models appeared in mini skirts and leather, belly revealing tops with heart shaped straps. They wore hot pants, printed tees and leather jackets. We saw a few black maxi-dresses, a mono-kini and a shiny metallic jacket. Yet it weren’t really the clothes that grabbed our attention. It was hard to keep our eyes off the jewelry and accessories, as models were accessorized to the max.

They had chunky chain necklaces around their necks, hips and wrists. They wore leather gloves and caps adorned with pins and pearls. Ginormous earrings appeared from behind their hair and of course the bags weren’t quite subtle either.

As two male models dressed in white turtle necks took pictures of every single look a voluminous, floor sweeping, leopard printed gown was sent out as Dean and Dan’s final head turning creation. For SS2013 Dsquared is all about getting noticed. Then again, not every brand has to go on board of the minimalistic train.

Giorgio Armani Catwalk Fashion Show Milan SS2013

Giorgio Armani kept his ss2013-collection ultra subdued with cloud-like colors that moved into a range of lovely blues. The first part of the show contained sportswear pieces worn in layers, often a short jacket over a tunic and pants.  Airiness was the point, and often, the effect, as Armani worked mostly in lightweight silks. Armani’s message of elegant ease he delivered via jackets with softly pleated, flyaway backs; a  focus on shorts and some dresses in gentle prints. Into evening celestial prints and dazzling crystals — grids, starbursts and spheres — exploded against grounds of black and navy.

Salvatore Ferragamo Catwalk Fashion Show Milan SS2013

It might have been a summer collection we were watching; today Ferragamo was all about coats. Strong trench coats with military details followed each other in a fast pace during the show. Done in shades of beige, kaki, off white and black they looked extremely wearable.

They were either matched with slim pants and ankle boots in the same shade or skirts and knee high, peep toe boots in which many of the girls almost took a tumble. Massimiliano Giornetti worked with lots of different styles and fabrics. He used mesh tops, suede and leather together in one look and thanks to the fact that he did every look in just one color that worked out perfectly.

Giornetti’s creations might not have been very exciting when it comes to shape; he did make sure every look had something grabbing your attention as it came down the runway. He used sheer lace details, leather accents (snake skin and croc too) and added a touch of shiny metallic to glam it all up. The result? A selection of fine day wear clothing, which can easily be mixed and matched into any woman’s wardrobe. And perhaps she can look for another pair of knee high boots…

Trussardi Catwalk Fashion Show Milan SS2013

What better place to hold a fashion party than on a Manhattan building’s rooftop? Right. So for Trussardi Umit Benan Sahin took us there for a cocktail and the presentation of his summer collection. His dress code didn’t exactly read cocktail, though, as models appeared in menswear inspired looks. grandma dresses and sporty casual wear.

Long tailored pants made the model’s legs look sky high as loose fitting tops and jackets gave them a little more ‘body’. Sahin made his Trussardi girls look streetwise too, by playing with leather parts and letting the models walk with their hands in their pockets. Chopped up bangs and shoulders bags added to that effect.

The few dresses maybe added an extra touch of femininity, though the contrast was a bit high compared to the tough street chic looks.

Going Trussardi next summer? Pick your favorite elements (sporty, menswear inspired or vintage chic) and mix ‘em up with your personal wardrobe. Just play around a bit, there’s never just one way of wearing things.

 

 

Aquilano & Rimondi Catwalk Fashion Show Milan SS2013

There was a lot going on in Aquilano & Rimondi’s spring collection. Inspired by Fellini, couturier Roberto Capucci, the Venice Carnival and Picasso; designs indeed were a mix of many influences. Argyle patterns (in black, white and metallic shades) were used throughout the complete collection, on the balloon-y short skirts and over the knee pencil versions. Skirts that were combined with corset bodies and several wide sleeved tops (some Japanese details in between all the Italian references).

There were some exquisite looks, which combined skirts, peplums and tight bodies. Yet there were some ill fitting ones too, which will probably never work on the body of an average woman. There were no pants in sight, no sweater, no jackets; no tees. Meaning for a wearable daywear look the Aquilano & Rimondi woman will probably have to shop elsewhere. Yet if she has a party coming up that midi argyle printed skirt combined with that ivory top might just blow everyone else away.

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