Giambattista Valli Catwalk Fashion Show Paris SS2013

Tailored suits and pretty dresses alternated each other in the first few Valli looks. A perfect balance of strong and soft, which slowly merged with one another as the show continued. There might have been a lot of masculine influences; every look was chic and sophisticated. Jumpsuits were given small legs and shorts sleeves. Structured cropped jackets were combined with sheer tops and sexy briefs. Plus low V-necks and peplum details added an extra dose of femininity to the collection, without making it too fussy and frilly. Greys, blacks and whites got a touch of red towards the end. Gold and silver beaded creations looked chic for both Valli’s old and young clientèle. And they might put their panties on display a little too often, Valli’s women will be perfectly dressed gals next summer.

John Galliano Catwalk Fashion Show Paris SS2013

The theatrical romance of the labels´founders was absent, yet the enormous hats of layered tulle reminded us we were indeed attending a Galliano show. Bill Gaytten sobered things up for the brand as he sent crispy clean oversize garments out on the runway. Endless fabrics were tossed, turned and folded (again the origami references) into elegant evening gowns in white, salmon, black and blue. Next to the mono colored pieces he introduced prints (and not the most subtle ones). City-inspired prints of hundreds of cars in standstill traffic slightly disturbed the ladylike feeling of the collection. Yet they did make the designs appear slightly more youthful and modern. Fascinated by the structured stiffness of Gayttens creations we open mouthedly watched the (mostly) A-line shaped creations come and go. How we would love to strut around in one of those blue maxi pants for one day.

Hermès Catwalk Fashion Show Paris SS2013

Turquoise, camel, brown, yellow and blue; a gorgeous color palette was Christophe Lemaire’s first hit ingredient to the Hermès spring collection. His oriental aloha prints that popped up several times during the show were a second success part. And combined with perfect tailoring; there were lots of strong looks to be spotted.

Full on leather looks, like a turquoise croc ensemble, and leather detailing put the H into Hermès. And of course new Birkin bags (a weekender and a backpack) had to be introduced.

To complete the celebration of all things Hermès the models wore the brand’s scarves (in contrasting prints) around their necks (held together by a chic pin) and around their wrists. Even a fashion newby would be able to see what articles Hermès’ focuses on. Yet we don’t blame Lemaire. A heritage as strong as that of Hermès has all the right to be put on display.

Costume National Catwalk Fashion Show Paris SS2013

A new kind of minimalism was Ennio Capasa’s starting point for Costume National SS2013. With so many brands focusing on minimalism the designer decided to bring something different to the table; minimalism with more technique, elegance and more of a couture feeling. His creations indeed were minimalism with a twist. A twist mostly formed by a print of an aloe leaf and bird wing snipped with scissors (even on a pair on sunglasses!). Capasa experienced with color too; mixing unlikely shades as red and fuchsia, but also navy and black together in a series of tuxedo looks. Matador hats, leather clutch bags and unexpected asymmetrical details in almost every piece of fabric further strengthened the collection. One thing’s for certain CN’s minimalism was unlike any other kind we’ve seen the last couple of weeks.

 

Jean Paul Gaultier Catwalk Fashion Show Paris SS2013

It felt like a Best Of collection and..well.. it kind of was. In about twenty minutes Gaultier presented “An homage to all the pop stars of the eighties”. Artist who, the designer himself, has dressed at the top of their game. We had a blast looking at Grace Jones, Boy George, Madonna, Amanda Lear , Annie Lenox, David Bowie and Michael Jackson look-a-likes. Yet to say JPG exceeded himself with this XL collection would be a little exaggerative. It was a spectacle and an enumeration of what Gaultier does best. Striped suits, corsets, cone bras, overalls; all styled to the max, like usual at a JPG show. It sure looked like Jean Paul had a blast putting this highly entertaining show together. Let’s hope the designer keeps on dressing great artists like the ones represented today. We would love another Greatest Hits collection in about ten years from now.

 

Junya Watanabe Catwalk Fashion Show Paris SS2013

On the same day as Viktor & Rolf showed their mirrored collection Junya Watanabe sent his models out on the runway with mirrored headgear. Yet the reflecting pieces were the only thing the two brands had in common. Cause could you ever really compare a label to Watanabe? The brand is so outspoken and unique it would be hard to copy that spirit.

Watanabe’s model looked like futuristic sportive sixties girls. Walking to the energetic club beats of the show’s soundtrack they sported leggings, mini dresses, cycling pants and thin water resistant jackets. Poppy colors gave the looks even more power, although a series of black designs at the end appeared just as strong.

Puma shoes with bright details completed Watanabe’s Space Age theme. At 09.30 a.m. the overwhelming show really kicked in. Full of energy we sprinted to our next show location. Unfortunately without the mirrored helmets.

 

 

Viktor & Rolf Catwalk Fashion Show Paris SS2013

Their invitation was a slight clue of their show theme. An old school picture of a model holding a mirror was a subtle indication Viktor & Rolf’s Spring / Summer 2013 collection presentation was going to be about old Hollywood glam and would be filled with mirrors. The backdrop was a large mirror, clothes were given all kinds of reflecting parts (roses and bows made out of mirrored plexi) and a drawn print of a classic hand mirror even appeared on some looks. Not to mention the large amount of metallic pieces, which fit in with the theme perfectly.

In between all the shimmer and shine Viktor and Rolf used a soft shaded color palette ranging from white to nude and salmon to coral. No Hollywood actrices, in the long and lean looks made out of different pleated and draped parts (sophisticated patchwork), the models had more of a dreamy goddess-y feeling. Goddesses in their upgraded wardrobes of course, which were given strong shoulders and playful details such as large bows, the names of the designers as mirrored prints and chunky necklaces.

Many looks still had a very high red carpet feeling, yet we can totally see some of those pants, tops and sportive sweaters being worn ‘on the streets’. Especially with metallics being everyone’s favorite trend to spice up their wardrobes, we can see this collection doing well next spring.

 

 

Yohji Yamamoto Catwalk Fashion Show Paris SS2013

On Friday evening a series of rags represented Yohji Yamamoto’s feeling of destroyed romance. In his collection, full of contradictions and mood swings, the designer showed a certain poetic spirit. His messy haired models walked the runway on flats, dressed in fringed maxi skirts, pants and dresses held together by the slightest pieces of fabrics. After black, khaki and red, it was black again in which veiled models represented some kind of widows. Followed by girls in asymmetrical jackets worn with colorful lurid sheer skirts, revealing their blue shaded panties.

Some eye-catching larger than life jewelery funked things up in the second half of the show. Necklaces that might work for a magazine’s editorial or catch the streetstyle photogs attention outside the shows. Yet not really the kind to hit the office in. The same goes for the clothes, although we can see something beautiful happening with the languid sheer tops and dresses that closed this slightly confusing Yamamoto collection.

 

Chalayan Catwalk Fashion Show Paris SS2013

We got quite a feeling of optimism through Chalayan’s spring/summer show. He presented a very light collection of clean, boxy designs. Models sported boxy blouses, dresses and jackets worn with small pants or bare legs to keep them slightly feminine. If Chalayan accentuated the waist, some other part of his creation had to be structured, so playful skirts were mixed with puffy tops. Combined with bright green, yellow, orange and blue all the white felt even more fresh. Used on mesh fabrics and jersey inspired materials looks got a sportive touch as well.

Never one to leave out the headgear Chalayan came up with some extraordinary pieces again. His signature floppy hats were given a sun cap and turned into true summer proof statement pieces. A selection of colourful printed  designs (a print that featured piles of Chalayan’s own clothes) and two black and white evening dresses closed the show. Yes, there were some quirky twists, but the designer perfectly managed to bring them all together in a crispy selection of pretty wearable designs.

 

Nina Ricci Catwalk Fashion Show Paris SS2013

Peter Copping seemed to have turned a new page at Nina Ricci. He added some edge to the normally so soft and feminine label, or, in his own words, brought a bit of London to Paris.

He opened the show with a full black look; a jacket and a skirt underneath which Manon Leloup wore a mesh top and a harness detail. A touch of bondage, yet still chic enough to fit the label’s heritage.

What followed were slightly undefined layered dress with ruffles and fringes in pink, black, navy and a few pastel shades. They had a certain twenties feeling to them, although the models’ waists were too accentuated for that.

Sweet skirt suits and polka dot dresses in shiny gray and nude were funked up by multiple chunky chain necklaces. A sheer polka dot top worn with a playful hairy skirt looked daring.

It seems Copping took the right amount of risk as he made sure he kept everyone’s attention throughout the show, without completely shocking the fashion crowd.

 

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