Valentino Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Womenswear FW2013

Perhaps the show could have had a few less dress variations in it, but we fully understand Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli for leaving them in, since they were all too beautiful. Mostly inspired by the work of Dutch artist like Vermeer the designduo introduced us to their minimal yet ultra elegant selection of mostly dresses. They started off with a A-line black dress, that had long sleeves and a standout lace-like collar and cuffs. Simple, but perfect. Variations to that dress came in blue, embroidered, printed, over the knee and eventually floor sweeping. Laser cut collars, cut outs and transparent parts, coats and a clean blue jumpsuit kept us on the edge of our seat. Not to mention the blue and white gowns decorated by a Delft ceramics pattern. The fact that we’re Dutchies has nothing to do with our opinion about this show. It was just beautiful.

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Maison Martin Margiela Catwalk Fashion Show Womenswear Paris FW2013

Since Martin himself is no longer on board Maison Martin Margiela has been rediscovering itself. Today’s collection was proof of that as it was not the most coherent line up. Yet the fashion house did present some strong designs that proudly carried the name of the French fashion label. Oversize and menswear seemed to be the red line in the show the houses described as a “rally” in the show notes. Overall, suits, pinstripe waistcoats (and quite a few other ones – patent leather and fur – too). Black and white looks were given a hand painted yellow or pink twist as more color followed on patent orange and red leather and strangely crafted, multicolored mesh tops. The finale of floor sweeping panel dresses that seemed to have some kind of ad texts on them appeared to be a whole other chapter of the Margiela fall collection.

 

 

 

Yohji Yamamoto Catwalk Fashion Show Womenswear Paris FW2013

Yamamoto’s collection on Friday included some of his best ideas and creations put in a new mix fit of clothing for 2013. The designer used eighties different small themes for this show. We spotted workwear, Asian inspiration (kimono sleeves, origami details), arty influences. Lots of black and asymmetry, liked you’d expect. Yet blues, browns touches of orange, blue and purple (as a surprising bright part in the middle of the show) kept the show very much alive. “My role is to get the value of clothing back for everyone: cutting, draping, tailoring. There was no real theme to the collection, I just wanted to make dresses, to tailor and enjoy the value of clothing”, Yamamoto said backstage. And as he felt it was his duty to bring back the value of clothing (that has according to him been gone for a while) he collection may not have originated from a positive point, the overall mood was cheerful. Beautifully crafted creation, perfectly fitting the models’ bodies. No time to look back, the future is bright (orange, blue and purple shaded, that is).

 

Sonia Rykiel Catwalk Fashion Show Womenswear Paris FW2013

It was Geraldo da Conceicao’s debut collection for Sonia Rykiel, since the brand got it’s new owners Fung Brands Ltd. last year. For his first collection he managed to mix Sonia’s signatures with his own skills and preferences. Knitted suits with playful buttons opened the show, followed by a selection of knitted dresses that fully breathed Rykiel. The next black leather, more architectural pieces seemed more of Geraldo’s personal thing yet they were quickly followed up by more knitwear. Casual pieces worn by bra-less models and business chic designs like a baby pink suit jacket and a baby blue ensemble. A trio of printed tunics perhaps looked a bit out of place, yet the finale sweaters (with kisses and flowers) brought back that joyful Rykiel feeling. It might take a while before Geraldo da Conceicaso has fully found the right direction he wants to go with the brand, but he’s on the right track.

Missoni Catwalk Fashion Show Milan Womenswear FW2013

Missoni ended with a standing ovation today. Also, for the first time Angela spoke to the press about still having hope for Vittorio and her wish to carry on, be strong and focus on work. So without any hesitations the Missoni fall/winter collection was presented like any other show on the Milan Fashion Week schedule. It included loungewear, from pj’s to bathrobes. With bare shoulders, sheerness and fishnets many looks felt slightly too fresh for fall, yet layering up those pieces by comfy cardigans was Angela’s winter proof solution. Touches of light green, pink and blue brightened up the black and white color palette. Some of the shades were used to a degrade effect making two long lean dresses change from white to pink and grey to black. A full on off white winter look, made a perfect new season picture as Missoni demonstrated monotone, in this case sporty, looks will stay in fashion. Not a lot of signature zig zag prints, yet with all the layering and material mixes there’s not a dull moment in sight.

 

 

Emilio Pucci Catwalk Fashion Show Milan Womenswear FW2013

High boots, shorts dresses did the trick at Pucci’s fall/winter presentation. The over the knee boots were suede and came in a range of colors, from camel to red. The dresses varied from pastel shaded, satin printed to sexy transparent with lace details. Clothes, as designer Peter Dundas described them, “women want to put on and men want to take off”.
Though like many of the in Milan presented collections Pucci breathed forties, yet it were late sixties/seventies muses Anita Pallenberg, Britt Ekland (and their trendy bangs) that inspired Dundas. Their modern look a likes had that same rocky attitude mixed with a boho swing in the form of animal printed waist belts, high collars, capes and fur coats casually tossed on their shoulders. And if this boho rock collection fails to become a success; the Pucci beauty will. Bangs it is! (what the first lady can do, we can too).

Blumarine Catwalk Fashion Show Milan Womenswear FW2013

Known for her sweet, soft and girly designs Anna Molinari did not disappoint on Friday. Pastel shades sweaters, coats and (unflattering) pleated pants opened the Blumarine show. Knitted hot pants were mixed with fur-like coats in the same shade as the nude colored footwear seemed to almost be one with the models’ feet. A menswear inspired section in the middle of the show (with a tweed cape, hounds tooth printed fur and a checked suit with statement shoulders) woke everyone in the audience up, before continuing with baby blues and vale pinks. Classic Voluminous shirts with bow details and ruffled skirts were right up on Molinari’s alley. As a few sheer T-shirt dresses and pleated short skirts added a welcome young touch to the collection.

Moschino Catwalk Fashion Show Milan Womenswear FW2013

Please enjoy the pictures for now. Our review will follow shortly.

Just Cavalli Catwalk Fashion Show Milan Womenswear FW2013

Today’s Just Cavalli show was filled with the most beautiful ethnic prints. Inspired by Roberto and Eva Cavalli’s trip to Bhutan they covered plants and special buildings. They appeared on completely printed looks; blouses, pants, ultra short dresses and even evening gowns.
Now don’t think they forgot about the animal prints; there was still a large enough dose of tiger stripes, leopard spots and snake patterns. On the lining of a coat, pants, dresses and as a detail part of one of the lively prints.
Yet apart from all those prints and all that color the most interesting part about Just Cavalli today was that is was not just sexy. Yes there were some figure hugging dresses, but the thick sweaters (even with turtle neck and a high white collar), wide tees and structured coats felt the most surprising and refreshing. They still were very Cavalli, but the designers definitely took a risk here.
We encourage them to be risky more often, ‘cause we really liked what we saw today.

Ann Demeulemeester Menswear Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2013

Ann Demeulemeester had an extra feminine touch this week. Besides long tops and dramatic floor length coats models wore bowler hats with netting and seemed to wear make-up. Done is her regular color palette of blacks and whites her full length sweaters, embroidered jackets and pants tucked into lace up boots almost felt like a series of Amish Ann-designs. They didn’t appear like the most fun people to hang out with, yet dressed in such great layered pieces the mysterious models looked interesting enough to evoke a conversation.

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