Balmain Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Womenswear SS2015

As fashion brands are turning more towards social media (the first brands are advertising on Instagram and Burberry is experimenting with a Twitter buy button) it’s not all that surprising these media form an inspiration as well. And who needs to look at previous decade or go through old archives when you can have an Instagram picture of Rihanna as the starting point of a collection. Balmain’s Olivier Rousteing, who is friends with Rihanna, wanted to push the boundaries of sex for ss2015. Something he translated by showing a lot of skin through transparencies and cut outs. His creations paraded by the likes of Joan Smalls, Karlie Kloss, Kendall Jenner and Rosie Huntington Whitely were clean and powerful. Pencil skirts, high waisted pants, bandeau tops, sleeveless (tuxedo) jackets and one or two more airy and gracious evening gowns hit the runway. They had stripes and Mondrian-like checks (some of the checks were cutouts), they were tightfitting and sheer. But never did Rousteing take it too far. The clothes may not appeal to just everyone, but he presented the kind of sexiness that fits his target group. The kind of on the edge sexiness his friend and front row guest Kim Kardashian knows how to pull off (in real life and on Instagram).

Ann Demeulemeester Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Womenswear SS2015

Sebastien Meunier’s second collection for Ann Demeulemeester was vert Ann. All the label’s distinctive ingredients were present. Deconstructed tailoring, check. Black & white, check. Long & lean layering, check. It made up for the ultimate signature Demeulemeester collection, although critcs stated it could have been more renewing. Perhaps Meunier was being too polite, too loyal to Ann to change things radically. Some unexpected extra’s would have been welcome. Yet there’s no arguing the models didn’t rock their monotome ensembles. And we were happy to see some white fairies along the more doomy characters.

The time of the season (Milan SS15 streetwear)

It’s summer in Milano and streetwear is all around during fashion week! Team Peter Stigter went out and caught the atmosphere around the shows. Featured are, amongst others: Chiara (Blonde Salad), Kate Moss, Heidi Klum, Hanne Gaby and Anna Della Russo.

Marni Catwalk Fashion Show Milan Womenswear SS2015

On Sunday Marni was one of the final Italian brands to show their s/s collection in Milan. And well, the brand, which is turning 20 this year, made sure Milan Fashion Week went out with a bang. Besides the show Marni set up a large flower market at one of Milans famous 18th century building where the show was held. Not only the prettiest of flowers were represented here. Marni had covered just about any type of gardening essential, decoratively exposed in cheerful (and of course) branded bags.

It was a subtle nod to the collection, which involved some mind blowing (made abstract and magnified) floral prints of it’s own. The show started off very serene and calm though, with white, sandy and grey structured, asymmetrical outfits, looking sportive and modern at the same time. Kimono like sleeves and judo inspired tied belts gave the collection a subtle oriental touch. As did the graphic floral prints in green, yellow and red with summer season written all over them.

Of course it wouldn’t be a Marni show if accessories didn’t play their part. Multiple chunky necklaces worn at the same time, eye-catching earrings, statement bags and some impressive sportive platform sandals made it into a solid summer collection. No pulling from the archives, no looking back, no “best of”or “greatest hits”, but a collection perfectly worthy of concluding 20 Marni years.

Dolce & Gabbana Catwalk Fashion Show Milan Womenswear SS2015

Having pulled from Sicily’s beauty and history (their roots) numerous times Domenico and Stefano suddenly made a little inspiration hop for SS2015. Not the Italian island itself, but the Spanish invasion of Sicily (15th century) was the source for their sensual, classical yet still typical Dolce & Gabbana collection. “After a 200-year occupation the Spanish left a lot of things: baroque, religion, colour, flowers”, Domenico stated. All aspects well represented in this collection. Matador looks, flamenco outfits and castanets (on the soundtrack as well) were the almost literal translation of classical Spanish influences. Yet every look was given a modern, rich and extra sensual update. Bloomers, corset tops, cocktail dresses, skirts and capes were all highly decorated, embellished and embroidered. Rich floral patterns (even on some sheer knee high socks) were beautifully mixed with polka dots and stripes as heart prints represented passion. Everything was perfectly balanced. The prints, the colors, the revealing and the covering up, as well as the hair (middle parting), make-up (red lips) and the accessories (dramatic golden crowns, xl earrings and hand bags with dolls wearing matching outfits). Not once did the label let go of it’s oh so strong signature. We’re curious where it’s next trip will take us.

Roberto Cavalli Catwalk Fashion Show Milan Womenswear SS2015

The words chic, romantic and delicate might not usually be the best words to describe a signature Roberto Cavalli creation. Yet on Saturday the designer did present us with such a collection. A collection with a type of resort feeling, “the vacation life” as Cavalli’s team stated backstage. With modest, kaleidoscopic, tribal kind of floor length dresses, sliced up and pleated. With dreamy cotton lace decorated by elegant bows. And with destroyed, ultra light, vintage looking denim (the labels’original trademark) numbers. Still, who thought this would only be a dreamy, loungy holiday selection of clothing, might be disappointed. Of course Cavalli couldn’t resist to throw in a series of club worthy outfits. Like croc leather skirts and motor jackets. Like plunging, glittery leopard dresses. Like sheerness, fringes, sequins, leather and animal prints all in one party look. Now that’s the Cavalli we know! Although we don’t mind his little resort half of the collection, at all.

Missoni Catwalk Fashion Show Milan Womenswear SS2015

Seating celebrities front row at your fashion show might not be such a thing anymore, Johnny, Angela Missoni’s English bulldog, did earn his ‘frow’ spot at Missoni. And there’s no doubt about Johnny liking the sugar sweet, ultra light spring collection. Although the extremely long and lean knitted dresses would probably not be a perfect match. Relaxing maxi skirts, dresses and trenchcoats with lace and tulle parts followed each other in rainbow pastel shades with not only a subtle vector print but some wave and floral details too. Like at Fendi the orchid popped up quite a few times. Flat sandals, colored turbans and bright red lips topping the full on summer looks off.

Max Mara Catwalk Fashion Show Milan Womenswear SS2015

Were we watching a seventies show? Due to, among other things, the choice of hats Max Mara didn’t really breathe S/S2015 at first. Yet after a closer look we could see the modernity of the clothing. Most looks seemed a combination of a mid calf length pencil skirt and one or mops layered tops. Yet with all of them being fully printed it was hard to tell where one piece of clothing ended and the other began. Let alone distinguish a skirt from a pair of culottes. In any case Max Mara focuses on the waist for summer with not only skirts but long, tailored double breasted suit jackets too. XL cardigans and trenchcoats were worn over sheer tops. Slouchy belts and silky scarves added some chicness of the collection as those suede boots would work well with just about any 2015 ensemble.

Gucci Catwalk Fashion Show Milan Womenswear SS2015

At Gucci we were presented a mix of many things really. A mix of luxury and casual, sensual and practical, western and eastern influences, but also a combination of vintage inspired and more modern pieces. Overall the collection had a seventies vibe, which perfectly coincides with Kate Moss – Gucci’s front row guest – being the new face of the brand. The topmodel is known for her seventies rock chic way of dressing. She loves a good pair of jeans as much as she adores her many fur creations. We therefore could see her working the biggest part of the collection into her daily wardrobe. The army inspired, double breasted jackets while on the go in London. The XL laced up tops while lounging on a yacht near Saint Tropez. The patchwork, Oriental printed chiffon dresses when attending a fancy fashion event. The 7/8 pants might be a little more tricky, as they would be to any average woman’s figure. Same counts for the stiff, thick leather designs that mostly just look their best on a model’s body. But Frida came up with more than enough wearable options for next summer. The gorgeous color palette of browns and reds definitely set the right mood. The accentuated waists (by brown leather belts) and silk scarfs added to the cohesiveness of the collection. And as strangely as it might sound, we’re looking forward to rocking some of that fur underneath the Ibiza sun.

Isabel Marant Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Womenswear FW2014

After having shown her bestseller items with her H&M collection Isabel Marant was in for a (slight) change with her fall/winter 2014 collection. Don’t worry, there were still plenty of shoulder accentuated jackets, ethnic prints and bare legs at sight. Yet Marant took a little more risk, stepping away from the expected it-girl kinda creations. She, for instance, introduced new pants proportions (not skinny but slouchy this time) and gave her girls a boyish and almost a nerdy kind of look with her chunky grey knits, large overcoats, camouflage shades and careless styling. Oh and not to mention the shoes… woolen ankle boots, full of leather straps with a fur lining every now and then, which might just become next winter’s it-shoe. Perhaps Marant is slightly changing her focus onto a different kind of girl. But changes are her loyal fan base of hot, cool girls is just changing with her. She might just skip the new proportions and rock those fur vests, metallic military tops, super short skirts and overall inspired safari dresses like never before.

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