Kenzo Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2012

Today Humberto Leon and Carol Lim proved their the right guys for the Kenzo design job. Their debut menswear collection was young, refreshing, well tailored and still had all the Kenzo-aspects in it. A color palette ranging from orange to moss green was their interpretation of the brand’s lively colors. While some subtle medallion prints (on a pair of pants, a jackets, a sweater and a blouse) represented Kenzo’s signature vivid prints.

Especially for a winter collection Leon and Lim’s take on Kenzo felt fresh. Who needs black when you have the perfect burgundy? And why would you opt for white if you can produce the same item in a exquisite shade of camel.

At Kenzo too, the coats were the eye catchers of the show. Although we must say some of those vibrant sneakers kept screaming at us as well…

Calvin Klein Catwalk fashion Show Milan FW2012

Inspired by New York Italo Zucchelli came up with a strong collection which felt quite sportive. He designed nylon sweaters and hoodies/jackets with croc leather detailing. He created loose fitting pants, thick leather jackets, water resistant parkas, sporty body warmers and structured Tees worn over long-sleeves.

The clothes looked comfy and his XL-coats and enormous capes looked like they could bare any kind of winter weather condition. No, the Calvin Klein man won’t get cold very easily in those layered looks.

And though some of the designs (and the palette ranging from camel to black) seemed a bit too classic, those cashmeres, alpacas, mohairs, leathers, and alligator will suit the modern CK man just fine.

Dolce & Gabbana Catwalk Fashion Show Milan FW2012

Domenico and Stefano’s ultimate male muse David Gandy didn’t walk in Dolce & Gabbana’s menswear show. He attended the show as one of the special guests, next to Beyoncé’s sister Solange (who has just signed with Next Models) and a few Italian stars.

It was a classic and very Italian show, which had the brand’s masculine tailoring tradition as it’s starting point.

The collection was all about coats (and capes). They were thick and heavy and looked rich due to the many golden embroideries added. They formed quite a contrast next to few the shirtless guys in their camel colored Long Johns and boxers. Yet it seemed bodywear was a big part of the show, since multiple silk pajama’s (we think: Chuck Bass from Gossip Girl) were presented along the way.

Pinstriped, burgundy, velvet or gold and shiny; there were more than enough evening looks to choose from, topped off by a playful ribbon bow tie and a Sicilian cap every now and then.

The full looks, as they were presented on the runway, maybe were a bit too luxurious for most men. Yet there were enough sole pieces to mix and match into a man’s everyday wardrobe.

Louis Vuitton Catwalk Fashion Show Paris SS2012

A carousel with 48 horses filled the Louis Vuitton stage on the last day of Paris fashion week. On each horse was a model, including miss Kate Moss, who apparently asked Marc Jacobs if she could be part of the show herself.

All girls were dressed in super sweet pastel colored looks with lace details. They looked girly and ladylike at the same time, combining cute white colors with parts of sheerness.

Skirts were right at knee-length, (crocodile leather) jackets and (fully buttoned) blouses all had 7/8 sleeves. Every lace flower, appliquéd rosette, button and zipper was perfection. Silver colored shoes, tiara’s and lace umbrella’s seemed like the perfect touch to Jacobs’ sun kissed looks.

The rumor on Jacobs leaving Vuitton for was Dior not be discussed and the show didn’t indicate anything in any direction either. So rumors can continue on, it just would be a damn shame if we would have to miss out on these kind of fairytale-like shows.

Emanuel Ungaro Catwalk Fashion Show Paris SS2012

With the start of new chief designer Jeanne Labib-Lamour (29) Ungaro wiped out the bad memory of the last few collections (designed by Lindsay Lohan and Giles Deacon). The label made a fresh start with a more clear and controlled collection.

The first great thing she did, was introducing some amazing aqua-colored prints, inspired by aerial photos taken by NASA. They looked fresh, vivid and super glamorous and were used for comfy pants, luxurious blouses, bathing suits and frilly dresses.

Then there was attitude of the show; still sexy, but a far cry from those pasties we saw a few collections back with LaLohan. No extreme cleavages, no ultra-short skirts; every looks was well proportioned. The girls looked chic and sophisticated, even in the many fully sequined dresses at the end of the show.

Let’s just hope Labib-Lamour will stay around for a few seasons.

Giambattista Valli Catwalk Fashion Show Paris SS2012

It was as if we were watching a show full of angels as the Giambattista Valli models were all dressed in white and light-colored designs. As simple as the designs were, as creative were the fabric choices. The show opened with a fur-like material, followed by zebra-printed satin, white lace and shiny, silver embroidered fabric.

It weren’t quite the looks you’d wear to the mall. A fuzzy fringed zebra skirt with a zebra shiny top looked even a bit too much for a night out. And a candy colored fringed dress, looked like it belonged to some kind of circus act. But they sure looked like fun.

Besides, there were plenty of nice and wearable looks left. Mostly cute, princess like dresses adorned with brocade and Swarosvki crystals in shades like pink, ivory, yellow and metallic gold.

True Valli-fans will be thrilled to ad some of those looks to their summer 2012 wardrobe.

Sonia Rykiel Catwalk Fashion Show Paris SS2012

On a bright yellow catwalk Sonia Rykiel’s models appeared in looks more subtle than in the past few collection. It started with creamcolored skirts, knitted tops and dresses, which all had a black strip attached to them. They were followed by some lace items (a suit, a pair of pants). Then some pops of yellow, nude, orange and ochre came on. All pretty and perfect for spring.

The collection was mostly the work of her daughther Nathalie and the new creative director April Chrichton, but Sonia made damn sure her signature look was portrayed. The Sonia style was visible in the knitwear, the stripes and the choice of color. So nothing to unexpected, but just the right amount of change to make women hit the stores again.

Martin Margiela Catwalk Fashion Show Paris SS2012

With their hair blown fully in their face Margiela models strutted the catwalk in some unconventional long and lean looks. One dresses was made without straps, so the model herself hat to hold it up. Others were held together by Velcro and countless zippers. There were girls walking around with the plastic clothing bag over their outfit. And nude colored tops made it look as if the models were really naked underneath their black jackets.

Yet as bizarre as it all looked on the runway, there were some good ideas their. Those maxi leather skirts might just become a hit and short sleeved tuxedo dress could be kinda cool as well. If only things were brought to a more normal proportion this collection would be an instant hit.

Rue du Mail Catwalk Fashion Show Paris SS2012

A beautiful, soft, subtle handcrafted collection, that’s what Martine Sitbon showed us today. With every look presented on the catwalk you could see a lot of effort was put into it. Embroidery detailing, stitched patterns, beautiful pleats and watercolored prints made the collection unique and precious.

The silhouette was a mix of tight over the knee pencil skirts and loose-fitting, night gown-y dresses.  Colors changed from black and white to cobalt blue, yellow, rust and rose. The styles were a mix of Morocco (caftan) and China (watercolored prints) and presumably even more influences Sitbon discovered on her trips abroad.

Rochas Catwalk Fashion Show Paris SS2012

It was a sweet collection that Marco Zanini presented on the first day of Paris Fashion Week and which he described as ‘a journey through the vortex of cinema’.

His models had turned into elegant, chic women in fifties-inspired, pastelcolored (mint green, peony pink, ivory, lemon, kiwi, orange, blue) designs. Their outfits looked delicate, luxurious and original, made out of couture-like materials and new even some newly developed fabrics. All designs had their very own ‘sparkle’, whether it came from the shiny silk organza or the hand embroidered details.

A long shiny skirt with a grey knitted T-shirt appeared to be one of the youngest, most wearable looks. Shiny, almost see-through jackets looked exquisite combined with over the knee pencil skirts. And those bathing suits just breathed old skool glamour.

The styling made the show picture perfect with cat-eye glasses, organza kerchiefs covering big hair (fifties-style) and shoes varying from sky-high mules to soft suede sandals. This is how you do classy.

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