Issey Miyake Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2012

Benches with dresses formed the opening scene at Issey Miyake. Minutes later those same dresses were sent out on the runway worn by models. The knit pieces didn’t have the best possible fit and all seemed a little strange, but didn’t seem like it was a mistake. Remarkable were the pleated, ruffled and draped grey skirt and vest with light blue detailing and the bright printed suits. And those ‘Michelin’ coats looked unique too. Bright colored leggings added a sportive touch, while two final colored looks (beautifully shown by darker models) represented some kind of streetwise meets eighties vibe. Different from a lot of other brands Miyake’s models were well covered up. No cut-outs or sheer ensembles here, so conquering those cold winter temperatures in his layered, blown up coats won’t be a problem, at all.

Loewe Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2012

Combine fifties silhouettes with sportive materials and you get a collection like Stuart Vevers presented for Loewe today. A circle skirt matched perfectly with a darkcolored baseball jacket, a woolen coat was matched with a leather cap and thick leather jackets accentuated the models’ feminine curves.
Vevers used wool and fur, but it was a parade of leather really. Embossed leather skirts, leather sleeved baseball jackets, slim fit leather dresses, shiny capes and not to mention those handbags.
It might have been a very dark collection; the styling, the fresh make-up and the on trend sportive touches made it into a balanced fall/winter story.

Yohji Yamamoto Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2012

Yes there was plenty of Yamamoto’s signature black, but there was also quite a bit of color. Red and blue accents popped up throughout the whole show, on the clothes but also as a detail in the models’ hair. It made up for a vivid show, which felt refreshing for a Yamamoto winter collection.

The show was about covering up and revealing as warm winter coats and capes were matched with cut out, asymmetrical draped dresses. Besides a punky touch (seen through the hair, the boots and the use of color) the collection had a sporty vibe as well (visible through the jersey fabrics, the duo colored leggings and the fingerless tassled ?! gloves).

Whether heading to the gym or on your way to a nice dinner; these Yamamoto designs will definitely make you stand out. And if not, you can always tie and twist some colorful scarfs around your body for that extra showstopping effect.

Balenciaga Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2012

At Balenciaga we were high in the sky. Because the show took place on the 27th floor of the Paris skyscraper ‘Tour Cristal’ and since we fell in love with it’s beautiful fall collection. One shown by a complete Balenciaga Inc. company, including employees, interns and an IT department.

Ghesquière introduced new silhouettes and new proportions (coats with big rounded shoulders and padded sweaters with puffy sleeves).

Sheer dresses were presented in different shades with asymmetric metallic and animal printed accents. Knee high skirts were matched with thick stiff sweaters and short jackets. He even showed his sense of humor, by introducing parachute pants and sweatshirts with crazy slogans like “JOIN A WEIRD TRIP” and “OUT OF THE BLUE”. At the end those same parachute pants were elongated till the models’ waists and worn with V-neck sleeved tops and corset-like variations.

So many different looks and yet each one so strong and unique. Working at this Balenciaga office seems like a dream job to us. We can already picture ourselves behind our clean desks just daydreaming as a real life catwalk takes place in front of your eyes everyday.

Rue du Mail Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2012

It was a sporty chic collection, Martine Sitbon presented yesterday, designed for a somewhat ‘androgynous woman with a strong attitude,’ as she told the press.

The sportive part of the show was visible through the use of color (lots of different colored sleeves), the silhouettes (baseball jacket shapes), the materials (jerseys and knits) and the details (lots of zippers). Chic were the black & white knits, the macramé lace, the laser-cut bouclé and the silk bright colored dresses that closed the show.

There were some tricky parts of the collection though. The cutouts can easily become very tacky and the same goes for the red watercolor print. Just as long as the Rue du Mail women keep their looks on the sporty side, they have nothing to worry about. Even better, next fall they’ll be all the rage.

Rochas Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2012

Busy seventies prints and warm winter shades were in the mix at Rochas. Inspired by the pottery of the Swedish ceramicist Wilhelm Kage designer Marco Zanini created outstanding winter looks, which, some say, balanced on the verge of becoming ugly yet stayed graceful and gorgeous.

A printed – green and off white – dress was matched with a sixties geometric printed coat in the same green and purple. A beautiful knit skirt and matching, belted sweater formed a great winter duo. A shiny pair of metallic pants and skirt looked like the finest PJ’s. And a mustard ribbed sweater matched with pants in another yellow shade looked odd, but cool.

It was the combination of cosy knits and metallic kaleidoscopic prints that made this collection unique. The warm shades (purple, bronze, ink blue, mustard yellow) that make us long for winter, even though we’re very looking forward to summertime.

Zanini maybe presented his looks in a scruffy way; in real life these midlength skirts, silk tops, jacquard pants and heeled sandals can be some serious showstoppers.

 

 

 

Antonio Marras Catwalk Fashion Show Milan FW2012

Inspired by singer Milly, a singer who was a living metaphor for Milan in the 20th century (and the lover of the king of Italy), Antonio Marras presented a stunning series of fall/winter clothing.

His pieces were detailed and romantic. Worn on the runway they were like little pieces of art translated into contemporary womenswear.

Marras’ designs represented Milly’s souvenirs from all the places she had been and all the men she had loved. And without knowing what those might have been, you could see the clothes were telling a story.

Gorgeous tweeds (perhaps from a coat of one of Milly’s lovers?), English walpaper florals (from one of the rooms she may have slept in), embroidered fall leaves (which might once have decorated a skirt or dress) and richcolored slightly graphic  patterns (origanited from an old tapestry?) together formed a rich and classy mix.

Used on structured coats, pencils skirts and blouses with pointed collars they made the young models look like graceful, elegant ladies. Ladies with an exquisite, original taste of fashion that is. And though the designs might have had a classic forties touch to them; every single one of the looks will easily create a wow-moment seventy years later, in winter 2012/2013.

Jan Boelo Catwalk Fashion Show Amsterdam FW2012

“If you don’t wanna fuck me baby, fuck off”. Jan Boelo’s music was loud, raw and rough, completely in line with his Upper East Side- inspired collection. He presented tight cut suits, skirts and long dresses made out of shiny materials; clothes that are worn during wild parties at private clubs.

The show represented the journey back home through the pooring rain. Wild hair, faded make-up and sunglasses. To accentuate the ‘wet look’ Jan used jerseys and lace with a subtle shiny effect.

For women Jan showed long skirts got extra high slits and tops got extra deep cleavages. Jackets were cut to the body and got special zip and pocket details. Knit accents on leather leggings added some extra flexibility (so girls can party in them all night long).

Sweatpants, tailored shirts and tight suits were the main party options for men. Jan even arranged some relaxing outfits (like sportswear pants and T-shirt with a loose turtleneck) fort hem to wear the morning after.

Partying with Jan Boelo means you’re in for a rough ride and with clothes like this staying up all night is not hard at all…

Erny van Reijmersdal Catwalk Fashion Show Amsterdam FW2012

Sunday afternoon the Erny van Reijmersdal show took place. It was a show unlike the rest of the show we saw this week. Familiar models walked the runway in static luxury creations to the tunes of Pirated of the Carribean and Dutch singer Ramses Shaffy.

Long skirts and tailored jackets were the two main items of the collection. Checked woolen blankets held together by safety pins were followed by wide silk and velour skirts. Jackets were presented in any possible fit, color and print (paisley, checks). And all of them were super tailored, pleated in the back and had eye-catching toggles.

Looks were styled off with high tough black boots, ruffled white blouses, wide belts, scarves and gloves, which the models carried in their hands. Enormous pearl bracelets and necklaces added some extra glam to the luxurious catwalk looks.

The overload of fur (complete fox furs were tossed on the models’ shoulders) didn’t appeal to everyone. Quite a few people in the room reacted pretty extreme. However, it was a solid, cohesive collection, which received a standing ovation at the end from a big part of the audience.

SuperTrash Catwalk Fashion Show Amsterdam FW2012

All the ingredients for the perfect SuperTrash show were there Saturday night. A great show area (Passenger Terminal), an enormous crowd (incl. a front row full of Dutch celebs) and an absolute party vibe.

Olcay Gulsen, head designer of Supertrash, and her team put attention in every little detail. All guests were welcomed by ladies dressed in golden SuperTrash pants and printed tees and everyone in the front row had someone waiting for them with a sailor cap on, with their names written on it.

Yet though we expected a nautical theme in the collection as well, we couldn’t spot it in the clothes. The collection was – as always – super sexy and feminine. Gorgeous long curly haired models showed silhouette accentuating dresses, playful skirts, sparkling pants and floor sweeping gowns. All looks styled off perfectly by chunky shiny bracelets and high silver heels.

After a first few looks in off white, beige and sand colored shades, the color palette changed into more earthy tones. An ethnic print, shown on a strong tough jacket/dress looked like perfection. The bright colored zigzag print that was  introduced (on a pair of pants, a long dress, top and jumpsuit ) later on felt a little too summer-ish for FW2012. But Olcay made up for with her finale of long sexy dresses. Those goddess gowns came in sparkly brown, beige, turquoise, purple and black and were the cherries on the pie for this fall/winter collection.

But no SuperTrash finale without designer Olcay showing  off her fabulous looks on stage, of course. This time it was an extra special appearance since Olcay did a small performance (in the style of Beyoncés Billboard awards show last year) while launching her first perfume ‘Phenomenal’.

A great collection out, a first perfume on the market and an enormous fashion crowd,who loves it all. What more can a designer wish for?

Olcay Gulsen doesn’t hold a SuperTrash fashion show every season, but when she does, she sure does it right!

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