Hermès Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Womenswear SS2016

While maximalism was upcoming in so many fashion collections of the last few weeks, there was no sign of the more is more style rule at Hermes. It was as minimal as so many fashion houses have been showing over the last few years. Including the model’s barely there hair & make-up. Not necessarily a bad thing, of course. Without any distracting chandelier earring or neon colored troll hair our eyes were solely on the clothes. A selection of practical day wear in a vibrant color palette. Not mind blowing attire, but very wearable strong pieces. Like a white pleated midi skirt with matching long sleeve top with graphic lines. Or a red midi co-ord paired with sneakers in the same shade. Not to mention those white short combined with a sleeveless cream colored trench. Simple yet strong. Some outfits perhaps were a bit too crisp and clean and a little too much of what we’ve been seeing before the last couple of seasons. Not a collection to make headliners, but luckily Hermes’ Apple watch collection – to be released this week, yet not one pair at sight in the show – is already doing that. So not to worry. After all accessories are bringing in the big bucks at Hermes.

Lacoste Catwalk Fashion Show New York Womenswear SS2016

Although best known for it’s croc embroidery Lacoste is approaching it’s branding differently for SS2016. For instance with ‘Lacoste’ printed on a navy two piece worn by Lineisy Montero or on a hooded dress worn by Harleth Kuusik and ‘Rene’ (referring to founder and tennis champion René Lacoste) printed on a menswear polo. But also by turning it’s sportswear up a notch. Leaving the classic polo shirt aside and focusing on new shapes and silhouettes. Like an elegant blue number sported by Maartje Verhoef that seemed a mix of both a bathing suit and a legging. Or a vibrant red zipped dress and matching cap Bhumika Arora pulled off perfectly. But the fresh touch was also in those roomy jumpsuits, short bomber jackets and belted blouses. Sportswear pieces given a little twist by designer Felipe Oliveira Baptista. Not to mention the way the creative used the flags of so many countries as eye catching prints. Cuts dictated by the geometry of banners – lines, triangles, lozenges, the horizontal Y of South Africa. Primary colors – the blue, white and red shared by the flags of France, USA, England and Russia – but also the yellow and sky blue of Sweden, resonate in the collection’s color palette. A nod to the Olympics in Rio next summer, for which Lacoste may again dress the French team. An honor you don’t just go by in your ready to wear collection and an ultimate opportunity to send out a message of diversity.

Roberto Cavalli Catwalk Fashion Show Milan FW2015

A super short animal printed party dress opened Cavalli’s f/w show. Luckily paired with a large woollen cape, or we would have been looking at the wrong season. Although in Roberto Cavalli’s world an animal printed party dress is always appropriate. What followed were floor sweeping dresses and airy poetic blouses combined with waistcoats and statement trousers. Ruffled bibs, frilly cuffs and a strong focus on the waist. Some denim, silk and corduroy. There were touches of military, bohemian influences and maybe even some eastern references. But most of all it was a mix of fashion pieces that will make the Cavalli customer’s hearts beat faster. Festive, seductive pieces to hop from cocktail to dinner to fancy yacht party. That Cavalli women doesn’t care too much about whether the silhouette is more seventies nowadays or the color palette should be pastel and faded; she just want to have a good time. That being said the sizzling ombré plissé goddess gown that concluded the show is a dreamnumber in any woman’s world.

SIS by Spijkers en Spijkers Catwalk Fashion Show MBFWA FW2015

MetamorphoSIS was the name of today’s SIS collection. It referred to the title of a Kafka novel in which the main character wakes up one morning as a giant bug. Other stories about bugs too inspired Truus and Riet to takes us on a journey to a world of electronic frames and robot like insects. A far cry from their previous inspirations, women like Josephine Baker, yet definitely an exciting starting point. The show kicked off with several black and white looks in which checks played a main part. Pleated pants, suit jackets, a feminine high slit shirt dress, playful skirts, sporty sweaters and elegant coats. All worn oh so effortlessly by the models, who had the most fascinating hairstyles. Bugs were to be seen in every single look. As shiny XL pendants on the models necklaces, as large prints on their sweaters and bags as well as graphically printed on dresses and skirts. Besides the silhouette, those bugs were the returning factor in the collection. Even when dresses turned yellow, coats came by in green and blouses popped up in blue. Colorwise the designs became more outspoken towards the end. Bright primary colors formed larger than life, computerized bugs on a few typical SIS dresses. A few new Spijkers en Spijkers spectacles to match and we’re ready for the new season!

Schuller de Waal Catwalk Fashion Show MBFWA FW2015

Both models and muses walked the runway at Schuller de Waal today. The muses were a handful of diverse, well known women (singer Ntjam Rosie, writer Hanna Bervoets, actrice Eva Bartels, Jans Possel – director Mediamatic -, singer Ming, DJ’s Charlotte van den Brekel and Elise Braas (Spacegirls) en fotografe Alexandra Hunts) inspiring the designers in their design process. They wore outspoken fashion pieces, created with a sense of couture. So the show notes read. The models sported looks made to give the black dress a new dimension. What we saw were designs full of contrast as far as texture and silhouette concerned. Dresses made out of both heavy (fur) and light (sheer) fabrics going from tight to loose fitting. Beautifully made, like you don’t always see at the smaller LAB shows by young designers. Every look was offered twice, the one resembling the other, yet still totally different in appearance. The designs felt urban, sporty, chic and refreshing. A solid addition to the Dutch fashion scene. Speculative Realism.

Bas Kosters Catwalk Fashion Show MBFWA FW2015

If there’s anyone who knows how to throw a decent catwalk party, it’s Bas Kosters. Year after year he gets the fashion crowd going by just letting music, make-up, backdrop and models in his designs work together. Today was no exception. Bas himself sat on a large block which stood on the catwalk. In Lotus position, like a fashion Budhha he looked at the fashion crowd. As he started spinning, yep, spinning, we’re talking Bas Kosters here, Valentijn de Hingh, opened the show. Naturally dressed in a bright colored, larger than life creation. As the show went on all typical ingredients came along. Tulle, bright colors, structured shapes, glitters everywhere, make-up overdone. Oh and let’s not forget the customized strollers, supermarket carts, dolls and Bas’ face as a backdrop. The music was a little less party, a little more spiritual. Incense and flowers spreading the love during the finale added up to that relaxation factor. An awakening and enlightening start of the weekend. Thanks for a good time, Bas!

Edwin Oudshoorn Catwalk Fashion Show MBFWA FW2015

A world collapsed offered the most beautiful backdrop at the closing show of today’s opening night. From piles of dust Edwin Oudshoorn angelic models appeared. In their hurry to escape, when it all came tumbling down, they were able to put on their most beautiful dress and grab a chic suitcase with their most important belongings. Perhaps containing some more fairy tale like creations? Not a bad idea.. The girls looked elegant, chic and maybe even a little out of this world. Floor sweeping gowns had floral applications, raffia embroideries and airy ribbons. Forties style in the mix with Japanese kimono silhouettes. Wide sleeves, asymmetric skirts and jackets that appeared to be sculpted. Silk, tulle, crepe and wool in shades of black, coral, burgundy, gold and grey; the summit of delicacy used on some of the most fascinating robes. Indestructible fashion pieces one simply can’t leave this world without. A return to home.

 

Stella McCartney Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Womenswear SS2015

Like no other Stella McCartney is able to design clothes women really want to wear. And not just because they look so good, but because they’re wearable. Cause even now that wearability is high up on any designer’s agenda, not all designer clothes are that easily to wear in daily life. Most of Stella’s designs for summer 2015 are, although we don’t think we’ll be biking through Amsterdam in one of her floor sweeping, flapper, flared designs. Her unicolored, feminine designs seemed suitable for a large group of women, from almost any size or age. The roomy pants looked chic, the long knitted tops worn over knitted skirts appeared elegant and the ruffle/flapper details on the dresses made up for a feminine kind of playfulness. Bomber collars, sweater details, trench inspired epaulets, wrap skirts, large buckles, the chunkiest necklaces and cut-outs added to the modern character of the collection. Some models in checked numbers seemed to have just been lifted out of bed. This is comfort dressing with a twist.

Jean Paul Gaultier Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Womenswear SS2015

Jean Paul Gaultier’s collections seemed to be ‘best of’ collections for the last few seasons. The talented designer mostly celebrated his biggest success designs, like his signature trenchcoat, the Breton stripe, pinstripe, the corset etc. His shows with guest appearances of Madonna and Dita von Teese were true spectacles, yet new trends, hypes or refreshing ideas seemed missing. Perhaps a run up towards this weekends’ show, his last prêt-à-porter show, described by many as the end of an era. Jean Paul Gaultier, unlike some of his fellow designers, knows when to stop and he sure went out with a bang. No ordinary last runway show, but a beauty pageant was the setting for his grande finale. ‘Élection​ de Miss Jean Paul Gaultier 2015’ was divided into sections including the designer’s most recognizable work and some new side stories. A start of black and white tailoring followed up by colorful sportive and printed creations. Then some glittery ensembles, scarf printed designs, patchwork denim and shiny, streetwise gold. Some models were even dressed up as fashion’s most famous figures like Grace Coddington, Carine Roitfeld and Suzy Menkes. What an honor! And as if they were strutting the real streets models carried phones, umbrellas, flowers, footballs, cans of food and dogs. Some ‘older girls’ paraded in a few black outfits as tuxedo variations made their appearance. Mexican wrestling ladies with an attitude formed the finale of the show. And when Jean Paul Gaultier himself entered the runway wearing a ribbon stating ‘L’enfant terrible’ it was cheering and smiles everywhere. This was JPG prêt-à-porter.

Junya Watanabe Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Womenswear SS2015

Junya Watanabe never designed for the mainstream client, but his collection for spring was more extravagant than we’ve seen from him in a while. Cartoonesque figures strutted his runway, sporting bright colored, latex disc shaped clothing, shoes helmets and bright make-up to match. The silhouette, if there was any, was about bare legs and architectonic shapes. Round discs at the shoulders, 3D, origami-like effects on the tops, asymmetric, zipped skirts at the bottoms. Breton stripes and biker jacket influences referred to the designer’s signatures. Other than that it was hard to recognize real wearable pieces. Most looks were real show numbers, belonging in a fashion expo or on stage. Both Gaga and Minaj would be pleased to pull some performance pieces from this collection.

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