MENSWEAR TREND AW2016/17: Pink suave

It’s 2016 and in that sense anything goes for our dear men. And in the category of gender-fluid trends, there’s one trend having a huge moment: pink! We’re talking any kind of hue: coral, salmon, rosé, fuchsia or pink panter-ish. Pink has a controversial background and history in menswear, and for long time it has been a huge sartorial no-no, considered a colour for only women, queers or Oxford men. But thanks to icons like Sonny Crockett (Miami Vice) and John Draper (Mad Men), pink is becoming more of a new neutral tone, like white. Even the manliest man figures on this planet can pull it off big time (looking at you Drizzy Drake and Cristiano Ronaldo) .

Perhaps it started with the Adidas Stan Smith collaboration in baby pink, and we noticed many pink pastel tones in previous catwalk seasons. And when colour authority Pantone named rose quartz as THE colour of the year, there’s no question about why you should be wearing pink this year. Only HOW you gonna wear it. Especially if you look at the many catwalk examples: Kenzo, Etro, Ferragamo, Westwood, Gucci, Versace and many more. They all have their own spin on this bright and cheerful colour. Even as a bomber jacket (check Givenchy) is pretty darn cool, don’t you think? And a trend rarely makes its way so quickly and directly to the high-street stores. Now there’s pink everywhere, cheering up the streets. Before you get to excited (and you have the right to be so) and jump on it, this is how to nail it without looking like you robbed your little sisters wardrobe: keep it simple and classy, team up with darker ‘masculine’ colours and avoid sparkly embroideries.

MENSWEAR TREND AW2016/17: The metallic dream

We hate to say this but: the end of summer is not so far ahead anymore. And as much as we like to postpone the colder and darker days and lengthen those endless summer nights, there’s also much to look forward too: like a new winter wardrobe. So coming weeks it’s time to have look at the menswear agenda for the season to come. And you better be ready, because there’s lots of new and exciting things to come and to fill your wardrobe with. Just follow our lead…

The designers have a new trend on their creative hands: metallics. And with the Olympics in Rio it shouldn’t be too surprising that a group of designers is going for the gold. Metallics are making a comeback once again, and the results are nothing but f-f-flashy (for all our Dutchies: this song is your best compagnon). Not all men will feel excited when thinking of metallic coats, a pair of metallic trousers or shiny bomber jackets, but high fashion labels like Donatella Versace, Calvin Klein, and Emporio Armani showed that a bit of shine doesn’t mean lack of masculinity. At all. They featured a range of metallic tones such as silver, gold and even shiny blue in a very cool and manly way. The reflective materials add an fresh and futuristic touch to every day and night wardrobe.

This may not be the most easy trend for men (not even for women!) to adapt and it can quickly feel a little over the top, but you can definitely make it work. To make sure you won’t get the peacock effect (yep, there’s a high risk), balance is key to pulling off this look. Metallics do best when they complement your outfit and not being the main essential. So start of slowly, by wearing accessories or flashy shoes, and easily make your way up to the trousers or tops. And try to match the metallic tones to other colours in your outfit. Now, that’s what we call a winners look.

Fendi Catwalk Fashion Show Milan Womenswear FW2016

At Fendi ruffles, frills, and flounces represented waves (Einstein’s gravitational waves to be precise). They popped up on sleeves, yokes, collars, hems, boots and handbags. Midi dresses, a pair of babydoll shorts, 7/8 high waisted pants, an oversize quilted coat and patchwork midi skirts. Like you’d expect at Fendi the clothes existed of a fair amount of fur, mixed with velvet and satin. Classic rich materials to create contemporary looks. Luxury for the cool kids who have already added those wave inspired sunnies and frilled thigh high boots to their f/w obsessions. Light pastels worked beautifully with deeper shades. Especially in the case of a light blue cable knit paired with a high waisted emerald colored pair of pants. Sir Lagerfeld know how to make a wave or two.

Recap New York Fashion Week Womenswear FW2016/2017

New York, New York. Concrete jungle where dreams are made of. Especially fashion dreams that is, for the last few days at least. What a week! While London is already strutting and twirling down the catwalk, we quickly look back on some of the biggest trends and most spoken and surprising moments (Lady Gaga! Marc Jacobs! Oh my god!) of the sartorial event. Study up and get ready.

1. Yeezy madness
Instagram. Facebook. Snapchat. Twitter. Medison Square Garden that was exploding with excitement. Kanye took over the whole universe. What can we say? We completely ran out of conversation topics except for this. His beautiful dark twisted fantasy got him in one straight line to No.1 on every surface (the clothes, the album) and beyond.

2. Lady Gaga on the go
Okay, so we couldn’t stop talking about the fully packed A-list front row at Marc Jacobs show and the crazy shoe platforms (especially how to gracefully walk on these), but the actual talk of the town was -of course- Lady Gaga making her New York Fashion Week runway debut. ‘Lady Gaga on the go’ as some of them stated.

3. See now, buy now
The world of fashion is changing more than ever and we notice and increasing number of brands going for a ‘see now, buy now’ approach. Focus is shifting towards consumers instead of the fashion professionals, which is why collections are shown in current season, aligning with its retail schedule, rather than six months from now. Which makes it possible for us hungry fashion buyers to order the collections and our favourite runway pieces as soon as they hit the runway. Like Proenza Schoulers ‘The Early Edition’ and Michael Kors ‘Ready to wear, ready to go’ collection, and many other commanding officers such as Tommy Hilfiger, Tom Ford and Rebecca Minkoff.

4. Riri’s Runway
Yep, the American superstar couldn’t make it to the Grammy’s, perhaps it had something to do with her catwalk debut. It’s hard -okay, impossible- to top the Kanye Yeezy madness, but still she got the whole fashion crowd buzzing over her Fenty x Puma collection. All the important ingredients were there: Anna Wintour in the front row, Naomi Campbell on her side and Gigi Hadid as her muze. The collection was not very surprising (black and white sporty-sexy looks with a huge street wear factor mixed with gothic elements) yet it was in some looks (giant grey furry bumbags and rucksacks and sweatpants worn with suspenders and fluffy hoodies).

5. Let me entertain you
Of course, the clothes itself make your succes. But the importance of entertainment must not be underestimated. It’s 2016 for god’s sake and everyone has an Instagram that needs to be updated. So bring in the show elements and theatrical settings. Like Thom Browne’s walk in the park, the choreography at Moncler and, sorry we have to name him again, Kanye’s incredible show/album release.

THE TRENDS
1. That socks!
It’s not that often that socks play such a prominent role in our outfits. Let alone on the catwalk.
But you better change your mind and score some sporty, chic or doll-like pairs that perfectly match with your shoe collection.

2. Shine on
Sequins and shimmers for winter? Oh, yes! Take a look at Joseph Altuzarra, Michael Kors, Derek Lam and Rodarte to check out some new and unexpecting ways to integrate them into your winter wardrobe. And what about the metallic suits and dresses at Oscar de la Renta and Marc Jacobs, the almost floor-length gold swirling skirts at Ralph Lauren and J.Mendel’s glimmering dresses? It definitely lights up the long and dark days.

3. The statement coat
Preparing for winter means finding you the perfect coat. And once you’ve found it, you most likely will cherish it forever (we do!). No wonder the main piece of almost every winter collection is a good -corrrection: outstanding- coat that needs to have a head turning elegance. What else helps you bare against the frigid temperatures and makes you feel sexy and confident at the same time.

4. Protect your neck
While Busta Rhymes was more into breaking things, Wu-Tang Clan made a track that perfectly rimes with one of the biggest trends for upcoming winter season: protect your neck with fashionable garments like polo necks, scarves, chokers (no joke) and especially turtle necks under sweaters, jackets and dresses (huuuuge trend!).

5. It’s shearling my darling
If your statement coat isn’t supposed to be long, lean and classy, than perhaps you have to think more towards the classic but always cool aviator-style jacket seen at Lacoste and Altuzarra. But we definitely dig the bomber style version of Rag&Bone too.

6. Blackout
Black lips, black eyes, black clothes. Get ready to get in touch with your darker side, wether in a gothic, chic, romantic or street wear cool ambiance. Check out Marc Jacobs, Rihanna for Puma, Proenza Schouler, Rodarte and Philip Lim to choose your exact direction.

7. Jolly Jewelry
Bring in the statement pieces to adorn yourself with, like Rodarte’s cuff of calla lilies, silver beaded nineties chokers and swinging look-at-me bell earrings.

8. They plaid us
But for once, in a good way. Take a look at Victoria Beckham, Calvin Klein, Rachel Zoe and Rag&Bone on how to wear the plaid in a much simpler and cleaner way than you might used to. Check check check.

9. Brush off your shoulder
Get ready for some sexy silhouettes. Shoulders are still the erogenous zone if you ask the fashion forecasters. If you’re not the type of person to show too much bare skin, this way of dressing might be your call.

10. Follow the furs
Wether it be real or fake, make sure you cover yourself up in some fluffy garments that make you the perfect victim to cuddle (how fun!). Opt for a full-on furry coat or a classy collar. You thought this was already pretty striking? Hold on, you’re not there yet. Because make sure it’s very colourful too. We put all our money on Michael Kors, Prabal Gurung, Rodarte and J.Crew.

Want to dive a little deeper into every collection? Check out all our show reviews.

Recap Paris Fashion Week Menswear FW2016/2017

More then ever last week’s Paris menswear shows have got us all hyped up about next winter. Milan already hinted at what is going to be an epic fashion season, Paris just topped it off. Sending us a mixed message and proving for once and all menswear doesn’t have to be just about monochrome suits. The biggest names up on the Paris catwalk calendar showed us how the dressing game for f/w 2016/2017 is done. Bold, colorful, opulent, outgoing, cool and original as it turns out. Here are some of the Paris fashion week highlights, almost making you want to skip both spring and summer 2016 all along and indulge in all these fresh styles.

1. Oversize
Raf Simons (unchained) show seemed to be all about playing proportions. Small (skinny) pants paired with XL V-neck sweaters, checked shirts, woolen coats and quilted jackets reaching as far as the models knees. And while we spotted a few oversized pieces (a pair of slouchy trousers as part of a suit at Dries van Noten) at other brands this show was proof Simons doesn’t play by any fashion rule, setting his own trends and portraying a certain attitude rather than a style.

2. Not so tough
At Louis Vuitton past and future assembled into a military inspired selection of looks, worn young boys. Sporting luxury coats, perfect little hats, skinny scarfs and belts they looked sleek, yet never tough. Modern military seems to has a touch of genderblending in it, if you ask Kim Jones.

3. More is even more
After being the star of 2015 Balmain is not just yet ready to step away from the limelight. Instead, Olivier Rousteing delivered one of the most powerful Paris fashion week collection. Keeping his success formula of boxy, military, yet sexy silhouettes as his starting point he went for a ‘more is even more’ approach for 2016/2017. Broad shoulders, belted waists and embroidered bodycon dresses (yes he showed a few pre-fall womenswear looks too) became bolder than ever. No such thing as too excessive in Balmanation. Beads, tassles and Swarovski crystals all over, of course presented to you by a supermodel cast.

4. Opulence
Dries van Noten once again seemed to have stolen everyone’s hearts with his dreamy collection full of opulence and royal touches. Nightwear inspired creations in silk and velvet. Given an extra luxurious touch by it’s faux fur detailing and the Wes Wilson designed artwork. Contemporary meets classic and some snake embroideries in the mix.

Formal vs. Casual
5. At Givenchy a cast of true model characters showed a collection that was all about formal vs. casual. With freedom being the show’s main theme shiny red bomber jackets made their way onto the runway next to brown colored pinstripe suits and studded jeans shirts. A few red eyed female models appeared extremely tall in the long and lean womenswear designs that were added to the fall/winter mix.

6. Youngsters
Fresh faced boys on the Dior Homme runway illustrated the brand is aiming at a (much) younger audience for next season. They looked cool in their (slightly overstyled) red, white, black and grey outfits. Silk pyjama suits, gold embroidered jackets, studded leathers, necklaces, brooches, belts, shiny shoes, fingerless gloves, it-bags and beanies; it was all their in Kris Van Assche’s slender suiting vs. streetwear collection.

7. Playtime
Bold prints and bright colors at Kenzo; inspired by Blur Gig they attended back in 1995 in Toyko designers Carol Lim and Humberto Leon scored with their colourful, playful and fun collection. Classic with a modern twist done the Kenzo way.

8. Bold colors & Bowie
Leave it up to Paul Smith to surprise us with the best color palettes of the season, conveying the Paul Smith messages just by one overview glance at the collection. Add the designers signature stripes and you’ve got the main ingredients of a hit collection figured out. For fall the British designer opted for an eclectic mix of colour, dinosaur prints, every material from cashmere to lurex, stripes, checks and a few paisley prints here and there. Success guaranteed for the designer who summes is collection by “Oh, You Pretty Little Things”, a subtle ode to Bowie in honour of whom Paul Smith hosted a party in the Marais to showcase his extraordinary personal collection of Bowie memorabilia.

9. Colorful & outspoken
If Paris learned us one thing it’s that menswear will be more colorful and outspoken than we’ve seen in a while. Walter van Beirendonck beat all other fashion houses at that point, showing one of the most explosive collections. Leopard suit meets checked dress? Sure. XL ethnic prints and shiny disco pants? Absolutely! No holding back.

10. The no-show
With barely one week’s notice Hedi Slimane decided to cancel the Saint Laurent presentation in Paris and reschedule it in Los Angeles. It felt strange without the best-selling brand, but oh well, Lala land might just be a nice change of scenery.

Sisters of the Castle Amsterdam Fashion Week fall/winter 2016

A show, unlike any other we have ever witnessed, that was Sistaaz of the Castle by photographer Jan Hoek & fashion designer Duran Lantink. Their project is based around the colorful looks of transgender sex workers on the streets of Capetown. Today a collection based on those fashionable types and their ability to make the most outspoken looks out of anything and everything they can find was presented. A photo exhibition with this very same theme can be visited at the Foam photography in Amsterdam, including portraits of six girls Coco (25), Cleopatra (23), Sulaiga (30), Gabby (29), Flavinia (33) and Joan Collins (57). Pictures that eventually formed the lookbook images for Duran Lantink’s collection and were projected onto today’s backdrop. During the show the audience got to know a little bit more about their lives, their dreams and the way they hope to be perceived by others. Six models were put up on a driving backdrop, each portraying one of the six transgender sex workers. They were fully dressep up and had gotten completely into character. In between different models showed Duran’s latest wearable designs as an explosive finally followed. A spectacle almost impossible to describe in words. Oh well, just check out the images and see it for yourself.

Evan Menswear Catwalk Fashion Show MBFWA FW2015

Only half way the show we figured it out; five twins walked the Eva catwalk show. The ten male models (with spray on masks and glitter hair) didn’t dress alike though. They wore a variation of looks made out of heavy winter materials (velvet, tweed, wool, fur). Plastic raincoats added some lightness, even displaying one of the models stomach through a sheer part. Dancers wearing masks came up and disappeared again as designer Evana Kuik said a little hi. Little Wild Illusion Machine.