Chloé Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2012

Pastels for winter, you gotta love it. Elaborating on this year’s major summer trend Clare Waight Keller brought on pastel blues, yellows and shades of pink. Inspired by London and Paris she mixed outdoor with elegance, sporty with sophistication, bold with subtle and grunge with grace. Belted woolen coats and large kable knit sweaters are bound to become the ‘most wanted’ pieces of the collection. As enormous kneelength shorts and beautiful lace items proved to have some showstopping power of their own. It’s definitely over with the minimalistic designs for Chloe, yet this French fashion house still doesn’t need a lot of fuzz to make a mind blowing impression.

Martin Margiela Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2012

Margiela started with some amazing, yet basic coats and capes which the models had hanging on their shoulders. Some real classics in grey, camel and black everyone could use in their winter wardrobe. Even the brand’s leather sleeves/gloves of last year made a reappearance, yet slightly different.

What followed was a series of turtlenecks and enormous collars which came up to the models’ ears. Then a couple of printed asymmetrical dresses popped up, giving this collection it’s signature look.

And just days after Angelina Jolie’s slit dress and thus her sexy bare leg at the Oscars were all over the news Maison Martin Margiela showed the same kind of sexiness. Pleated skirts which were short left  and maxi on the right revealed the models’ amazing toned legs, wow. Matched with shiny, straight blouses they created the ultimate cool chic look.

 

Nina Ricci Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2012

‘Nostalgia for the present’ was the theme of the Nina Ricci collection. It was about young girls playing dress-up in their mother’s and grandmother’s clothes, as Peter Copping told the press. This translated through tops with too long sleeves, extra large skirts and some of the dresses which were one size too big.

It made the models look like dolls. Dolls dressed in chic, but scruffy designs. Like slipdresses patched together with tweed and lace. Or somewhat destroyed jackets with fringes all over.

Though most of the looks were very ladylike, we also got a bit of a sporty vibe. Especially one of the last outfits, a sheer houndtooth skirt and jacket had sporty chic written all over it.

In this collection too it was all about mixing different materials, patchwork really. Wool and fur, lace and tweed, leather and satin, for the ultimate luxury looks with a bit of an edge.

 

 

Balenciaga Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2012

At Balenciaga we were high in the sky. Because the show took place on the 27th floor of the Paris skyscraper ‘Tour Cristal’ and since we fell in love with it’s beautiful fall collection. One shown by a complete Balenciaga Inc. company, including employees, interns and an IT department.

Ghesquière introduced new silhouettes and new proportions (coats with big rounded shoulders and padded sweaters with puffy sleeves).

Sheer dresses were presented in different shades with asymmetric metallic and animal printed accents. Knee high skirts were matched with thick stiff sweaters and short jackets. He even showed his sense of humor, by introducing parachute pants and sweatshirts with crazy slogans like “JOIN A WEIRD TRIP” and “OUT OF THE BLUE”. At the end those same parachute pants were elongated till the models’ waists and worn with V-neck sleeved tops and corset-like variations.

So many different looks and yet each one so strong and unique. Working at this Balenciaga office seems like a dream job to us. We can already picture ourselves behind our clean desks just daydreaming as a real life catwalk takes place in front of your eyes everyday.

Balmain Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2012

Balmain’s fall will be all about boxy jackets, small pants and tight dresses. Oh and let’s not forget the dazzling detailed Faberge egg-like embroideries that popped up throughout  the show. Especially those highly decorated pieces were the most remarkable ones. Even though there won’t be many women who can afford those thousands of hand embroidered pearls and crystals.

Yet as delicate as those pieces were, designer Rousteing still made it look cool and effortless, in line with what Balmain stands for. Besides his gorgeous creations there was not a lot of fuss going on at the show. Models barely wore any make-up, had their hair down (slightly messy) and walked around on their low(er) heels with their hands in their pockets. It’s the easy chic that works so well on the streets and it’s the cool effortless vibe that makes young women love the brand so much.

Though the Balmain look has been quite the same for a few seasons, Rousteing carefully introduced some changes. Jackets became boxier, some flared (velvet) pants were added to the mix of skinnies and even a 7/8 skirt made it’s appearance. It will be hard for the brand to step away from it’s success formula of skinnies and pointed shoulders, but today’s collection proved Balmain is right on track.

 

 

 

Ann Demeulemeester Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2012

The models at Ann Demeulemeester’s show wore a wild crown of hair, blades and black feathers. They had long leather gloves on their arms and black leather pants that melted into long boots. There was lots of black leather and velvet, but more inbteresting was the inky, midnight blue color. The collection had powerful outerwear and dark elegant dresses — worked in variations and fabrics rich with dimension. Tailored jackets and trenches came cut up into asymmetrical folds with sculpted collars. Long, lean dresses were simple aside from a single drape at the neckline or back. This was surely a tough, graceful women.

Mugler Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2012

At Mugler, the creative director Nicola Formichetti and designer Sébastien Peigné,  linked directly to Thierry Mugler. Their point of reference was the designer’s 1997 “insects” couture collection, with supermodels in patent leather and bug-eyed masks. It resulted in a subtle translation  like in the pattern of a black and white dress with super-sized shoulders and glossy black croc appliqués on a sheer form-fitting dress.

Rochas Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2012

Busy seventies prints and warm winter shades were in the mix at Rochas. Inspired by the pottery of the Swedish ceramicist Wilhelm Kage designer Marco Zanini created outstanding winter looks, which, some say, balanced on the verge of becoming ugly yet stayed graceful and gorgeous.

A printed – green and off white – dress was matched with a sixties geometric printed coat in the same green and purple. A beautiful knit skirt and matching, belted sweater formed a great winter duo. A shiny pair of metallic pants and skirt looked like the finest PJ’s. And a mustard ribbed sweater matched with pants in another yellow shade looked odd, but cool.

It was the combination of cosy knits and metallic kaleidoscopic prints that made this collection unique. The warm shades (purple, bronze, ink blue, mustard yellow) that make us long for winter, even though we’re very looking forward to summertime.

Zanini maybe presented his looks in a scruffy way; in real life these midlength skirts, silk tops, jacquard pants and heeled sandals can be some serious showstoppers.

 

 

 

Dries van Noten Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2012

Dries van Noten delivered another piece of print-art yesterday with his fall 2012 collection. It was innovative, colorful, ultra-chic and real. The Belgian designer was inspired by historical Chinese, Korean and Japanese costumes he saw at the Victoria & Albert Museum in London. He photographed the garments for large scale prints which he cut into various pieces to create graphic blocks. So the side of a beautiful patterned oriental coat became the decorative motif for a skirt etc. The collection was ultra elegant with that typical Van Noten menswear touch which made it wearable and cosmopolitan.

Gianfranco Ferré Catwalk Fashion Show Milan Womenswear FW2012

There were several really great aspects of the Gianfranco Ferre show today, inspired by Helmut Newton’s photography.

1. Designers Frederico Piaggi and Stefano Citron chose the most stunning shades, from deep emerald green to beautiful burgundy.

2. They opted for strong, architectural looks, which made the models look elegant and confident.

3. They, as did many other Italian designers, played with texture in a modern way.

With a focus on cut the designers created the most original, asymmetric looks. They emphasized the models’ waists by lines or belts and gave the girls more appearance by adding multiple collars.

Unexpected shapes and thick unflattering materials gave the collection a daring allure, which very well fits with today’s trends. Piaggi and Citron may be new at the Italian fashion house; with this collection they surely are on the right track.

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