Streetfashion Milan fw 2010

What are you wearing during Fashionweek? Your Burberry-boots, your latest D&G-vest or that vintage YSL? Maybe we’ll spot you in Paris, Milan, New York or Amsterdam. During the fashion-weeks we refresh our streetwear-category regularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style. Next stop: Milan

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Milan Catwalk Fashion Show fw2010: D Squared & Tokio Hotel

Since DSquared is designing the clothes for their coming tour lead-singer Bill Kaulitz of Tokio Hotel had the honor to open their menswear-show in Milan. His extravagant outfit had nothing to do with the theme of the show – Hockey Horror – but he made an impressive entrance and survived his stroll along the catwalk like a pro. The theme of the show had everything to do with hockey, THE national game in Canada,  and  everything that comes with it, the bloody fights included. Some clothes reminded of hockey-outfits, from the wide shorts to the big shirts. Fabrics were shiny and glitzy like ice, black was the main color. Of course everything was mixed the wrong way on purpose, but we already know that trick.

Milan Catwalk Fashion Show fw2010: Alexander McQueen

The Alexander McQueen-collection for fall 2010 was an entirely printed collection—of suits, leather coats, ski masks, even shoes. Some of the prints were on the dark side (like a pile of human skulls and bones), some simply puzzling (smeared paint, fur, knits, drops of rain). The silhouet was pretty stiff and straight, with ski-like trousers, shorter jackets and 3/4 coats sometimes half patent/half wool.

Milan Catwalk Fashion Show fw2010: Versace

Alexandre Plokhov, design director for Versace menswear, took the new movie ‘Tron Legacy’ as inspiration for his fall-collection. The result was a vision of a futuristic world, but also back to Gianni Versace’s days of hard-edged metal mesh. This was agood show, sharp as a laser beam and glossy. Plokhov modernized Gianni’s original ideas, giving the black leather a bursting-bubble decoration and weaving metal mesh into vests or as shoulder pieces. The neon-patterns on shirts looked like tie-dye leaking, but were all digital.  These were often mixed with sleek suits in cyber blue.

Milan Catwalk Fashion Show fw2010: Gucci

Gucci showed us the tasteful side of the Seventies – a period where a lot of mensweardesigners refer to for their fall-collections. Tasteful as in: monochrome camel, beige, black and off-white, faded blues, yellow and reds but also rich colors. This was not the most remarkeable Gucci-collection, as in new. The silhouet is still slim, with shorter jackets which had broader lapels, no excess of big accessories except for classic Gucci loafers, big sunglasses and a big bag. The Gucci man is still an angry young playboy, but he’s waiting for better times to come. It’s remarkablke that hardly any label shows tuxedo’s these days, I guess partytime is over. ‘ Come as you are’ sang Kurt Cobain while the last pack of models strolled down the runway. The Gucci-man just wears a velvet jacket in midnightblue, bottlegreen or burgundy. No bow, no shirt.

Milan Catwalk Fashion Show fw2010: John Varvatos

An impression of the stage at John Varvatos: an old church with scattered fresco’s and candlelight in the back. A perfect setting for the collection: rockers turned into businessmen but still sticking to black, their boots, leather and bulky knits.

Milan Catwalk Fashion Show fw2010: Prada

The Prada-show was held in the designers ideal – virtual- world full of facts & figures, info-graphics and spaces. A world that seems  more appealing to young people who easily absorb all that information. It was the young Miucca was aiming to. The models strolled through the labyrinth of info in their sometimes childlike, polished clothes in bright camouflage-prints or bleached colors, beige and black. The collection had that typical vintage Prada touch – like an old seventies Vogue Homme – without being too dorky. The look was polished, almost synthetic, but the colors (yellow, rose, blue, beige and black) and fractal-camouflage added the right dose of reality and warmth.

Milan Catwalk Fashion show fw2010: Roberto Cavalli

The Roberto Cavalli fashion show was a mix of several themes. There were military influences and Victorian details. Yet the show was also very Cavalli due to the use of jaguar prints.

One piece of clothing really stood out: tartan trousers, cut just under the knee. Those trousers came by in a few variations matched with large coats, metal mash tank tops or velour’s jackets. One metallic top had such a detailed pattern that the material resembled lace fabric.

Roberto Cavalli accentuated the men’s body in the right way with this collection; small at the bottom and wide at the top. So his trousers were tight and his big jackets had emphasized shoulders and XL collars with often, not one but two, fur layers.

The models wore shiny shoes in different shades. Their feminine metal belts had all sorts of frills and therefore were real showpieces.

The use of military as a theme may not have been quite renewing. Yet overall the Cavalli collection was creative and sophisticated.

Milan Catwalk Fashion Show fw2010: Salvatore Ferragamo

After the sound of trampling hoofs the Ferragamo models slowly came on to the runway. The collection meant to present the elegance and pride of ‘a man on horseback’ and show his sophistication and casual look.

This resulted in great balanced outfits in warm natural colors like orange, chocolate brown, velvet and red.

The models wore loose-knitted scarfs with long fringes. They looked comfortable in some large knitted cardigans with leather belts on top of them.

Ferragamo’s trousers were striped and his thick jackets had the tartan look going on. A few good old toggle coats came by and we saw some dignified jackets with a smooth satin finishing.

Altogether the use of knitwear, leather and cashmere made up for a luxurious-looking Ferragamo collection.

Milan Catwalk Fashion Show fw2010: Neil Barrett

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