Paris Catwalk Fashion Show fw2010: Yves Saint Laurent
January 23, 2010 by Jetty
Filed under Fashion, Featured Items, Menswear, Paris
For his fall/winter collection Yves Saint Laurent decided to make a movie. The brand hired Bruce Weber to produce a short film called Ain’t Nothin’ Like The Real Thing. The film, which contained footage of the male YSL models posing and dancing, quickly made it’s way around the web, shortly after it’s release.
Unfortunately in the film Stefano Pilati’s new designs for YSL couldn’t be seen. Therefor he held a show. He designed perfect trenchcoats with buttons at the back and checked blazers. In several looks he used a scarf as a belt on top of a coat. And some long tunic shirts were visible from under the jackets.
Yet Pilati’s jumpsuits and drop-crotch pants (popular in women’s fashion at the moment) were most impressive. The jumpsuits had a wide rounded neckline and all had a matching belt in the same fabric. The models wore them with T-shirts and jackets.
Gray and black were the main shades in this collection. And although Pilati used some female items, he managed to turn them into real menswear for next winter.
Paris Catwalk Fashion Show fw2010: Comme des Garcons
The first models that came on the runway at the Comme des Garcons fashion show wore corduroy outfits and hoodies with fur, which covered a big part of their faces.
Then a few printed suits, mixed with shirts and matching waistcoats came by. At the back of some jackets the shoulders and waists were accentuated by black contours.
The Comme des Garcons trend for fall seemed to be layering. Many outfits had two pairs of trousers, worn on top of each other. One of them was long, the other shorter and much wider.
Long cardigans were worn under some jackets as well. Even a fur coat was visible from under a small jacket.
Apart from a pair of bright pink socks and shoes the collection’s colors were very modest (and masculine).
Paris Catwalk Fashion Show fw2010: Givenchy
What would Jesus wear nowadays? If he shopped at Givenchy, he’d wear sandals, black stockings, a kilt, shorts and a gold crown of thorns necklace. The models at Givenchy looked like modern monks in their black and white clothes, black sandals (sometimes with, ugh, black shiny stockings), high collars and long coats. No laughs, no fun – this was serious man! But without all the fuzz, the basic collection is about a suit, a puffy jacket, a kilt, a white shirt and a long coat. Enough to mix endlessly.
Paris Catwalk Fashion Show fw2010: Rick Owens
January 22, 2010 by Jetty
Filed under Fashion, Featured Items, Menswear, Paris
Rick Owens continued to search the depths of the dark side with a fall-winter 2010 menswear collection of gender-bending, space age-y designs ready for the apocalypse. Androgynous models with enviable cheekbones skulked down the catwalk in bulky, tie-waisted trenches in lacquered microfiber or wrinkly microfiber with stiff, standup necklines and drop-crotched harem pants. Some wore ribbed turtlenecks with knee-length flaps in the front and back, while others sported leather tank tops that left their backs bare.
Overall, the collection, with its asymmetrical hemlines and great floppy flaps of fabric, strayed away from his usual somber palette, regarding some looks in light gray or shiny off-white.
Life’s a gamble, meet Adam Kimmel
January 22, 2010 by Jetty
Filed under Featured Items, Menswear
Adam Kimmel is an New York based designer, who put up a distracting presentation yesterday. Kimmels collection was an ode to the style and tastes of the painter George Condo. The blazers, vests and capes with roulette prints had a plush, jaded, man-about-town feel. The presentation, in a gallery with gaming tables and low lights – the gamblers (models wearing molded heads with twisted and ghastly expressions and clown-like ears and hair) were as real as anything else. The heads, based on Condo’s paintings, did dominate the scene, but most of the clothes will look just fine without them.
Paris Catwalk Fashion Show fw2010: Dries van Noten
Dries van Noten knows his way with menswear, with just that little touch of eccentricity and panache.
The Belgium designer focused at graphic details, think black (or red) and white stripes, piping, mixing checks and stripes and he took inspiration from the English jockeys. From dressed down sweat-styled trousers and bold electric blue separates to contrasting inserts, Van Noten’s man proved to be confident and stylish.
Streetfashion Paris fw2010
January 22, 2010 by Jetty
Filed under Events, Featured Items, Menswear, Paris, People, Streetwear
What are you wearing during the Menswear Fashionweek? Your Burberry-boots, your latest D&G-vest or that vintage YSL? Maybe we’ll spot you in Paris, Milan, New York or Amsterdam. During the fashion-weeks we refresh our streetwear-category regularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style. Next stop: Paris.
Pictures by Muriel Schouten
Paris Catwalk Fashion Show fw2010: Jean Paul Gaultier
The Jean Paul Gaultier fashion show opened with two girls fighting against each other in a boxing ring that stood in the centre of the stage. Then beaten up models in JPG designs and boxing accessories came on stage. They wore face protection, boxing gloves, belts with the JPG logo and carried towels around their necks. They had bleeding noses and band-aids all over their faces, as if they had just been beaten up.
JPG’s designs varied from sporty to chique. We could see lots of leather: belts, pants, jackets and details. Some knitwear (long scarfs and warm sweaters) was introduced as well. Sporty hoodies in several different shades were worn underneath the models’ neat coats and jackets.
On his T-shirts JPG had printed pictures of muscular male torso’s. And with a few skirts and some sparkling tops the French designer showed his feminine side.
Singer Chris Brown, familiar with beating up, attended the JPG show.
Paris Catwalk Fashion Show fw2010: Louis Vuitton
Dutch designer Paul Helbers presented a very wearable Louis Vuitton menswear collection. His decent-looking models wore items you could easily imagine on men passing by on the street.
The clothes came in masculine shades like dark gray, black and brown. Paul Helbers designed knitted cardigans and double-breasted, long, woolly coats. As seen in other f/w menswear collections the LV-jackets – as well as his bags – often had leather details. The leather used for some coats almost looked fake, while it had no creases, tears or what-so-ever.
A lot of big bags were shows. Christian Schoeler had painted some Vienna-inspired ones in white with fading colors, representing winter landscapes. Most models wore leather gloves and walked on boot-clogs in which they’ d tucked their legs.
At the end of the show both Paul Helbers and Marc Jacobs appeared on the runway, while Marc Jacobs applauded for his Dutch colleague.
Paris Catwalk Fashion Show fw2010: Viktor & Rolf Monsieur
It was the first time since Viktor & Rolf introduced their menswear-collection Monsieur in 2003 that the Dutch duo held a show in Paris. It was a small, intimate show with music of one single guitarplayer and totally different from their big womenswear-presentations.
The Monsieur-collection lies close to what the designers like themselves, a mix of streetwear and tailored suits with a touch of the unexpected. For next fall Viktor & Rolf unveiled a refined collection in a dark (mostly black) color palette mixing formal and casual, ranging from quilting and trousers with elasticated cuffs and a focus at the dinner jacket. Splashes of black paint were on the floor but also at trousers, a models’ face and in silver on a T-shirt.The unexpected lies in the layering and mix of different textures and fabrics. Of course the collection has all the ingredients of next fall: the large, comfy cardigan, the suit, the knits, the boots, the grays and the blacks.