Streetfashion FW2010 New York Day 5

What are you wearing during the coming fashionweeks? Your Balenciaga-heels, your latest Marni-dress or that vintage YSL? Maybe we’ll spot you in Paris, Milan, New York or Amsterdam. During the fashionweeks we refresh our streetwear posts regularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style. Next stop: New York.

Calvin Klein Catwalk Fashion Show New York FW2010

For the Calvin Klein fashion show young and old models were united. Doutzen Kroes was in the audience and watched topmodels from the 80’s/90’s, Kirsten McMenamy (1966) and Stella Tennant (1970), strolling down the runway. They walked in the show right next to beginning models such as Karlie Kloss (1992) and Dutch model Gwen Loos (1993).

All girls had the androgynous look (which made McMenamy and Tennant so famous) going on: their hair was combed backwards and their clothes were kind of stiff.

It was clear Francisco Costa let his clothes speak for themselves. He didn’t send anything on the runway that could distract you from that. So, no accessories, no bags, no special make-up, no crazy poses, just Calvin Klein fashion like we know it.

The designer came up with a few non-waisted woollen coats. Their shoulders were rounded and the sleeves were wide. Those coats were shown in black, brown and white. And apart from a blue and a lilac colored dress all designs came in those neutral shades.

Costa’s streamlined shift dresses and coats all ended just above the knee. Besides, his clothes were all pretty loose fitting so the collection did lack some sex appeal. The designer did use some shiny black and white (almost silver) silk for his pants, blouses and dresses. He also added a few sparkles on the last designs of his collection but it didn’t make a lot of difference.

Two good things about the clothes are (1) in a room full of people they won’t attract all the attention towards you and (2) you are never showing too much skin when you’re wearing them. Yet you’d have to have a strong, expressive personality to make some of the looks work.

Ralph Lauren Catwalk Fashion Show New York FW2010

After his ode to the American workers during the Depression, Ralph Lauren decided to take a more romantic road to fashion. The collection looked almost vintage Ralph Lauren, with its dark Edwardian touch, lots of velvet, black, burgundy and flowerprints.This is a style we know so well and which made him famous.

Ralph Lauren’s skill is to make the predictable look fresh. But he also to adds a discreet sexual vibe to male/female combinations. Jodhpurs curved to the waist and velvet vests were bodyhugging. The outerwear was plentiful, strong and mannish.

Long chiffon skirts and dresses reminded of Lauren’s favorite prairie-dresses, they were often mixed with long coats.

Philip Lim Catwalk Fashion Show New York FW2010

Every fashioncity has its darlings. Philips Lim is one of the darlings of New York. Not because he is so brilliant and original, but because he knows how to sell clothes. The Chinese American Phillip Lim has a major in business at California State University and that shows.

American fashion generally puts pragmatism ahead of pyrotechnics; Lim more than most. That can make his shows seem like a series of ticked boxes rather than an experience. Mohair? Got it. Céline-esque camel drenched minimalism? Check.   Those winter 2010 trends kept on coming. Jersey, fur trims, trouser suits, low-shine sequins, sheepskin-lined biker jackets, animal prints. Sometimes it makes you a bit grumpy because it is almost predictable.

After launching his label six years ago, Lim now sells in more than 400 stores around the world and it’s not hard to see why. In real life the clothes work just fine. Lim has a knack for combining cute with chic.

Proenza Schouler Catwalk Fashion Show New York FW2010

After a few sexy and dangerous looking collections  Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez gave their women more clothes to wear this fall. They layered her with staple pieces like swinging coats, cashmere sweaters and bubble-skirted dresses.

Of course the collection had some special details like the rubber printed cotton twill pants with black and white inkblots  These were cool, but the skirts that followed were better:  pleated or folded, in navy and green. Very girlish.

The designers also picked up on the season’s fur theme, but there were coats in alpaca too and dresses in black and white angora. The chic little  dresses that closed the show hit a high note.

Jeremy Scott Catwalk Fashion Show New York FW2010

“I can be a freak, every day of every week” sang Estelle – part of the soundtrack at the show of Jeremy Scott. Well, you can say that from the designer himself too, and he seems to wear that slogan with pride.  He is the guy  who makes coats of Mickey Mouse gloves and dresses in Flintstones prints.

His fall collection was named Hanger Appeal, and contains a mix of sporty print pieces, restyled classics (like tuxedo’s) and a section with jewel and cross covered dresses.

Badgley Mischka Catwalk Fashion Show New York FW2010

Twinkling embellishments and stardust beading were a big part of the Badgley Mischka collections. Their inspiration came literary from the stars, the designduo had been  studying pictires from the Hubble telescope.

Narciso Rodriguez Catwalk Fashion Show New York FW2010

Narciso Rodriguez let his signature codes — sleek, a-symmetric cuts and architectural details — rule his fall winter collection. The collection was full of good, studied clothes, grounded in controlled silhouettes, which packed commercial appeal and were a bit on the safe side.

Sleek but sturdy outerwear, much of it reversible, was the message for the day. A parka,  a thick, shearling jacket with a wrap funnel collar  felt protective. Rodriguez’s razor-like cut-outs, slashed across the shoulder, or a sliver down the chest, came into play on glossy silk dresses for the evening.

Streetfashion FW2010 New York Day 4

What are you wearing during the coming fashionweeks? Your Balenciaga-heels, your latest Marni-dress or that vintage YSL? Maybe we’ll spot you in Paris, Milan, New York or Amsterdam. During the fashionweeks we refresh our streetwear posts regularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style. Next stop: New York.

Anna Sui Catwalk Fashion Show New York FW2010

The first word that came to our minds when watching Anna Sui’s fashion show? Folklore.

With a stained-glass rendering of a Woodstock landscape in the background the models presented the most colorful outfits, the busiest prints and the most unexpected combinations of fashion items.

Every piece of clothing the hippie-chic girls had put on, was screaming for attention. Even Anna Sui’s tights were out of the ordinary. Yet the American designer mixed and matched all clothes and accessories in such a way that it looked all right. In fact, we’d almost belief wearing an embroidered suede dress with a jacquard blouse, printed tights and a big necklace was the only right way to wear it.

The prints had floral, graphic and animal details. And the colors we saw, varied from grey to army green, pink, red, brown, beige and purple. The final looks of the collection all came in white. The dresses in shades of brown, red and beige were our favorites, since they looked so perfect for autumn.

Apart from the colors and prints Anna’s collection was also a great gathering of textures. Suede, silk, crochet, lace and transparent dresses effortlessly alternated each other on the runway. In between those dresses woollen skirts, fur stoles, chunky cardigans and a quilted coat grabbed our attention.

Apart from the tights from her own leg wear line, the accessories in this collection were not made by Anna Sui herself. Jamie Coviello made the knit hats, Adrienne Landau took care of the fur stoles and the necklaces and brooches came from a century old Pottery in Detroit, Sui’s home town.

With this show Anna Sui gave numerous examples of how to mix and match her most colorful pieces. But will others be just as good at the styling job? We’re curious what combinations people will come up with and we doubt they will look as good as Anna’s.

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